Jump to content

tw77

Members
  • Posts

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

388 profile views

tw77's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)

0

Reputation

  1. Thank you dale560. I’ll have to check that over about the fan and belts
  2. I take that back. It was the 1460 that we had before the 1640. But as far as I know it was the stock setup. That’s been a while ago but we slowed the rotor and did some adjustments but never actually changed any parts
  3. We have a 915 combine we use to harvest wheat with. We disabled the chopper and spreader so that it lays the straw in a windrow ready to square bale. But we’re having problems with the fan not blowing the chaff out very good. I’ve tried adjusting the fan belt but it doesn’t seem to make much difference. I think it’s a poorly designed fan system and should have a fan blowing straight in from the bottom. This system has a fan pulling air from the side and blowing down and then back up through the ductwork. We’ve been thinking about redoing some of the ductwork and using a high speed 12 volt fan mounted closer to he bottom of the machine tp really push air through and hopefully get most of the chaff out. Has anybody done this or anything similar? We only do about 30 acres of wheat per year. The machine is in good shape otherwise so I hate to spend the money getting another combine. We have a 1640 for corn. We tried it on wheat but it absolutely destroyed the straw. I’m just curious if it’s possible to get a dc powered fan to blow that much air for the amount of time.
  4. I have a hydro 186 with a York compressor that broke the ac compressor belt. I put a new belt on and ran it but the clutch wouldn’t kick it. I checked the wire and it is getting power to the compressor clutch. I took the clutch off and tried to turn the compressor shaft but it will only turn about 3/4 of a turn either way and it seems like it catches hard either way. It will not turn past that point where it catches. Does anybody have an opinion on rebuilding or working on the compressor? It is only 3 or 4 years old. (thinking of fixing for a spare) I use this tractor to bale hay so I need it fixed yesterday. I ordered a new compressor and clutch. My main question is can I use the service valves to shut off the system and replace the compressor without losing all my refrigerant? Like I said, the system was redone about 4 years ago and doesn’t have leaks. Just a faulty compressor I believe.
  5. I did some more checking on the tractor today while I had a little spare time. The roll pin is gone out of the speed valve. I ran a magnet up in the hole but found nothing. I also robbed that valve from a parts tractor and swapped them. I also removed the access plate under the seat. The oil is moving but not churning like I thought it might. I ran it at pretty high throttle and the oil seemed to move some but nothing like I thought it would with that engine speed. There were no bubbles so I’m not sucking air anywhere. I cracked the line on the canister filter with it running just to see and it ran some oil out but didn’t spew like I figured it would if it’s supposed to run 1500 psi. I’m going to try to get a gauge and check the remote pressure next to verify. I’m assuming either the flow divider is not working right or the pump is weak. The tractor steers easily which makes me think the pump may be fine but it doesn’t have a loader or anything so it actually may not take much pump strength at all to run PS.
  6. Thank y’all for all the info. I’ve been putting up hay this week so I haven’t had a chance to really work on it but hope to at the end of the week. Does anybody happen to know if the filter in the canister is a screen to clean or if it’s a paper filter (would anyone have the number?). I’m going to check into it and dig into the speed valve since it seems to be broke.
  7. So if I understand right, my tractor should have a working remote whether the isolator Is open or closed With this setup. Is that right? Also I tried turning the wheel to the max both ways and nothing changed with the 3 point but while holding the wheel I bumped the remote and it made the wheel jerk. I also opened and closed the isolator valve and played with the flow rate valve and nothing changed on the 3 point. I can pick the lift arms up with no problem so I’ve tried that too with it running to see if anything would change. I assume the flow divider is what is in the first pic and there’s a canister under the steering wheel that I’m not sure what is. Also there’s a pic of the pump. I assume they are all the same
  8. I have another 444 with no engine and thought about swapping the valve body unit but I don’t think it will come off unless the transmission top is off first.
  9. Yes it looks like that. I took a few pictures to verify. The valve that says slow and fast seems like it may be stripped. It is out and will not screw in but I can push it in, however when I let go it pops back out.
  10. It’s double acting and is a single remote. I hooked a Vermeer Tedder to it and it would not lift the wings at all. I tried hooking the hoses up the other way and it was the same thing. I tried the valve opened and closed because I wasn’t sure which way it needed to be to run the remote. I’m just wondering if the pump could be weak even if the steering works good.
  11. I have a 444 that was a barn find. I got it running and cleaned the screen and filled up with fluid. The steering works great but the 3 point hitch won’t lift at all and the hydraulic remote sounds like it strains the pump but it’s not strong enough to even lift a folding Tedder. I’m used to working on 544s and 784s and bigger tractors so this is kind of a horse of a different color for me. Any advice would be appreciated
  12. Thank you. I’ve got them ordered. I figured on an o ring or two. Just wasn’t sure if it had a snap ring or how it’s held in place
  13. I have a 986 that has been leaking some hydraulic fluid. Finally tracked it down to the stem that comes out of the top of the transmission that connects to the ta lever. It only leaks when the ta is in high. Doesn’t matter if it’s idling or at pto speed. I assume there are some orings that seal but I’m not sure where to start as far as taking it apart. I’m hoping not to have to tear it down completely. I thought I’d ask if anybody else has been in the same problem and has any advice or information
  14. I have a row crop 784. It still has the original seat suspension. I’m finding it impossible to find a seat to go in it. Mine has the adjustment track bolted to the seat bottom and the back bracket bolts to the seat bottom as well. I have another 784 with a different style seat where the seat bottom bolts to the suspension and the back bracket is bolted straight to the suspension. I can find that style all day but the other one I have not. I checked with shoup, A&I, bates corp, eBay, Steiner, and a few other places with no luck. Hopefully someone will know where to look or have a suggestion.
  15. I have been wondering and trying to research info about if it is possible and how complicated it would be to put a zf front end in place of an existing kimco front end or replacing it with a 2wd front and dropping the 4wd. Has anybody done this? And do any other tractors use the offset zf fwa such as ford or Massey or agco and would they interchange? I have a 784 with a kimco which has come completely apart on one side. Any info thoughts or ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...