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About odSteve

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday July 26

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Northern California
  • Interests
    Outdoors, hiking, vintage farm equipment, old 4wd trucks

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  1. . Yes, that's the side spring hanger and not the under-the-frame- hanger I'm looking for ... but is that for a 3 inch wide spring? The springs in my 1700 Loadstar are 3 inches wide, and the spring perches on the 4x4 axle I planned to install are for 3 inch wide springs. Perhaps that is where I'm confused on which spring hangers I should be looking for. Perhaps I should be looking for spring hangers for an 1980's S-Series IH? Does anyone know - are the 4x4 spring hangers for a 1980's S-Series IH truck for springs 3 inches wide and do they mount on the side of the frame? Thank you, Sir, for your help.
  2. Hi, In converting my '69 Loadstar 1700 to 4wd, it uses a different spring hanger than the conventional 2wd front axle spring hangers. The difference is the spring attaches to the side of the frame with a 4wd, not under the frame. Does anyone here have a Loadstar 4wd they could take a couple pictures of the front axle spring hangers for me, please? Or perhaps a parts manual page they can post? According to Navistar the front and rear spring hangers of the front 4wd suspension are the same - but I don't think that is correct because the front hangers also have a tab for attaching the front bumper. Could someone please help clarify for me the hangers I'm looking for? Thank you. Steve
  3. According to Wikipedia Loadstars were manufactured from 1962 to 1979 before being replaced by the S Series of medium duty trucks. I know they were manufactured in 1973 per my parts manual.
  4. I just saw your post ... I'll see what I can come up with this weekend. Contrary to what Dana's parts availability web site says, most parts are still available through them. And I've found the same parts are also available from Navistar. However the price is about two thirds higher. What a Dana/Spicer dealer charges $100 for a Navistar truck parts dealership will charge $300 for.
  5. They make one-piece wheels for spoke hubs. I don't recall who - just have to search a little bit on google. I considered going that way with my truck, but then decided against it. Good luck.
  6. Hi, Sorry I cannot help you with your hydrovac part number. But I found a place in Southern Calif that had both my Loadstar master cylinder and hydrovac in stock. Their name is Valley Friction Materials, phone number is (818) 765-5174. However, would you mind helping me? I have a similar 2 wheel drive Loadstar I will be converting to 4 wheel drive with a similar Napco front axle I got from a wrecking yard. Could you please post pictures of your front suspension, especially how your front springs are attached to the frame and your front steering. It would be appreciated. I've never seen a factory 4wd Loadstar in real life - that's one of the reasons I'm converting mine to 4wd. Mine is also an ex-firetruck. Once you get all the bugs worked out of it, I think you'll be very happy with your truck. Good luck with it.
  7. They specialized in IH trucks of all sizes and years. I remember threads where they listed about a half dozen other IH forums, and twenty or so places that sell vintage and obsolete IH parts, new and used, along with another thread listing more than a dozen active light line dealers. They even had an entire section devoted to IH junk yards. I found many reasonably priced items through recommendations at that forum. For example, when I was restoring my '62 Travelette I needed new headlight buckets. I found NOS headlight buckets including headlights etc for the same price the local auto parts store wanted for just the headlights alone. I just hope they had an off-site backup for their forum. . .
  8. Anyone have any news update or insight on the fate of the OLDIHC forum? It's been down a couple days now. Don't know if it's just been hacked again or if its gone out of business. So much information was lost the last time it went down. They had to start from scratch and I don't think it ever got up to being where it was originally. And now it's down again . . .
  9. Thank you. But this is the first place I've ever really felt blessed. This was not my planned destination when I left L.A two years ago, but it has worked out better than I could have imagined - in less than two years I have a house with some land, good neighbors, good friends, great church, great job etc... all things I never had in L.A. Now if I can only figure out how to register my truck as non-op. . . .
  10. Good, good advice! I have - twice. The first time must have been beginners luck - stayed a week in hotels, saw shows, ate out etc and won enough money the entire week only cost me $20. The second time I lost all the cash I brought. I've never gambled there again. Yeah, a lot of bad luck in Los Angeles. Wish I had left that place 30 years earlier. Fortunately the rural North-Eastern corner of California is about as un-California as you can get . . . but it's still Comiefornia. But I must admit - God has truly blessed me here since leaving Los Angeles.
  11. Absolutely yes, unless its a vehicle that will never venture onto a public highway. And that includes being towed where the wheels of one axle is touching the public roadway. Only way to tow it is on a trailer where all wheels are off the public streets. There are a few cases I've heard of where someone builds a rat rod but never gets to drive it on the public streets because it won't pass all the inspections (smog test, crash test, safety tests etc) mandated for a vehicle that did not originally have any plates. I think a lot of it is up to the interpretation of the counter person at the DMV. I recall reading an article years ago where someone built a replica of the TV bat-mobile and it was confiscated the first show he took it to. My own story: I bought a Honda Civic from a private party, and had it checked by both the police and highway patrol before purchasing it. They both said it was ok, so I paid the person and took the paperwork to the DMV to have it put in my name. They, the DMV, said the paperwork did not go to the vehicle I was registering, so they took the paperwork from me and would not return it. Additionally they said the vehicle owed $800.00 plus in back registration and late fees and if I wanted to drive the vehicle I would have to pay those fees. They kept all the paperwork so I had no way to prove fraud therefore I had no recourse against the seller. And who knows why both the police and highway patrol did not catch the fact the paperwork did not go with that vehicle. So I paid all the back registration and late fees, got my new plates and tags and that was that ... or so I thought. A year later when I went to renew the registration they told me the vehicle did not exist in their computer system so they would not issue any registration. They wanted my paperwork (title, registration and plates) but I knew from past experience to only enter the DMV office with photocopies (that did not make them happy). After three different trips to the DMV office I finally went to court to get my registration. (Note each trip to the DMV office is a full day's ordeal as the line stretches out the door and half way around the building -- and that's just the line to get a ticket to get in line) At court, the judge ruled, despite me having all the paperwork they issued to me a year ago, the "the DMV must know what they are doing" and would not overturn their decision to deny me my registration renewal. But as I was leaving the courthouse I noticed a small table in the corner of the room with a sign saying the DMV had a new program to offer expedited registration. The printed poster on the table stated what paperwork was needed, which I had with me from my court visit, and a check for $25. I put the paperwork in the envelope provided along with a check for $25 in the box on the table and one week later I had my registration renewal with tags. What the DMV office and court denied me for over two months, their anonymous new pilot program provided in a week. I could also go into another DMV related story six years later when presented with a bill for $600 to smog the car... but that's another story.
  12. Who is Tony and how do I contact him? Unfortunately I live in California but many people did at one time register their vehicles in other states because the registration fees are so high here. But now if they (law enforcement officers) see an out of state plate on a car parked here in California for more than a couple months, they issue a pricey ticket and all back registrations and late fees from date of purchase must be paid before the vehicle is allowed back on the road. Unless, you can prove in court, by over-whelming evidence that the owner lives full time in another state and is just temporarily visiting here. Thank you.
  13. Hi, I just had my new binder project truck towed home a couple weeks ago. Friday I went to register it with full paperwork from Montana, and officially put it in my name. I also wanted to make it non-op. I was told by the local California DMV that I could not do either until I drove it to them for inspection and took it to a weigh station. The vehicle is a long-term project and may not be drive-able for a couple years. And yet I know from past experiences if I wait until it's road-worthy they will hit me up for back registration and late fees from the time it was first brought into this state. How do people in Calif put a newly purchased, large, non-driveable, antique vehicle in their name and make it non-op at the same time? The nearest company with a tow truck big enough to haul this thing is about two hours away. And they charge $250 an hour for their semi-truck tow truck, including travel time to and from their shop. So towing it a few blocks to the DMV after towing it to a weigh station is really not an option. Apparently, according to the local DMV, it makes no difference if I'm attempting to register it as a commercial vehicle or as an antique truck. All I want to do is officially transfer the ownership into my name and put it up as non-op until I get it road-worthy. Thanks.
  14. With the width of the base of the jack stands as close as possible to the inner dual tire, there isn't enough room to also put a bottle jack there as it would connect at the axle at the slanted part where the axle's pumpkin housing is necking down to form the axle tube part of the housing. The only way I can use both a jack stand and the bottle jack is to put the bottle jack in the center of the axle housing's pumpkin part. Is it okay to lift the rear of the truck like one would lift the rear of a car with a floor jack in the center of its axle housing or could that potentially bend the truck's axle housing by lifting it in the center? There's a lot of weight on the back half of the truck. It's hard to explain but perhaps I can get a picture next weekend, weather permitting. Thank you Sir for your reply.
  15. Hi, I finally brought my truck home a couple days ago. I doubt I'll be able to work on it any this year as the weather is already icy during the morning and below freezing at night. So the first thing I wanted to do was to put it up on jack stands and cover it with a good tarp. But I soon realized there wasn't enough room for both a bottle jack and jack stands under the rear axle. How does one normally raise and support the back (or front) of a truck like this? What I finally did was to use a Hi-Lift jack with a 4 ft pipe as a handle extension. Could not use it anywhere on the body work as it, (the body), would bend. So I sat it next to the tire with the jack's lift platform just inside the rim and lifted that way. It worked, but I really don't think it was very safe. I worried that the jack's lifting platform end might pop out of the wheel rim, or the Hi-Lift jack itself might bend or collapse as I'm sure I was probably far exceeding the designed lifting capacity of the jack. What's the proper way to lift and support each axle end on a truck like this? I've always been taught you don't lift a heavy truck with a floor jack by its axle pumpkin - is that true? I don't mind spending a hundred or two on some tool, but a couple grand on the hydraulic wheel lifts like they use in a truck tire shop is out of the budget. How should an individual put this truck on jack stands to work on it? Thank you for any advice you can offer.
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