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About international560

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  1. From reading his reply, I bet he is saying it would be a 33hr drive on the Farmall H, assuming a 16.4MPH top speed. I could be wrong, but if he hauled it going 60mph, it would still be a 9hr drive and that seems like a long drive for a Farmall H regardless.
  2. The carb and ignition on these are so simple that they are very easy to work on. They are also easy to rebuild and most parts that wear out are now available aftermarket for a decent price. As long none of the major housings are busted or missing, then it should be worth buying if the price is cheap enough and you have the time to work on it.
  3. It would be nearly impossible not to have any bends in the lines. The ideal way would be to have the exact same length of each line and the same number of bends, but you just try to get the bends smooth and not put anymore bends than necessary. As long as the length of the lines are the same and there aren't any crazy bends, the pressure wave will propagate through each line in approximately the same amount of time, leading to equal timing and fuel distribution to each cylinder (of course this also assumes the injection pump is calibrated correctly). Of course the engine will still run if the lines are slightly different, but what you end up with is cylinders that aren't contributing evenly which can lead to timing/fuel knock or just less than ideal power from the engine.
  4. 8,000ft high altitude pistons were as high as you can get. They were also offered as 5,000ft. They should both clear a gasoline head, as that is what they were intended to work with. I don't think they are available anymore, unless you find some NOS, but there are lots of companies making stepped head pistons that will give you higher compression than the flat tops. I have seen a few sets of NOS Firecrater pistons/rings./sleeves come up for sale. There may be someone out there producing a high performance version. I know at one time Denny's was advertising a high performance piston kit for M-450's, but most people would tell you to avoid them.
  5. I would definitely think this is a park brake and not meant to be used for normal braking. I've been at tractors shows and pulls where some people either due to size or age, had real trouble reaching down to set the factory brake latch.
  6. You have to hook in the factory location, no closer or farther away. They are pretty strict on all of that. I am redoing another M now, that is going to be completely stock, I may try it in that class if I get bored enough.
  7. They are a good group of guys. I was thinking about bringing my M to pull in that pure stock class but It needed the weight on the nose and I didn't have enough front wheel weights to balance it right (I had always ran suitcase weights on the front). This was several years ago and there were only 2 or 3 tractors in the class. I haven't been to one of their pulls in quite a while and I am not sure how many are in that class now. It seemed most of the tractors in that organization were in the 3500-4500 weight classes and above that the numbers really started to drop off. It seems like all tractor pulling goes in cycles, where there are big numbers for a while and then people stop showing up until there are only a few left pulling and then people start up again after a few years and it is a big group once again.
  8. That wouldn't be too hard to make other than the cast piece for the ratchet portion, which you could always just mill that out. The rest of it is simple bending and welding. I wonder what company manufactured it.
  9. I realize that, but their rules fail to mention that it had to be for that model, just says that it has to be in the manufacturer's part book. It is gray area for sure and I am sure that some people are doing it and getting by. I am sure they mean "in the manufacturer's part book for that model" (it just doesn't state that exactly) because I was going to hook in that class with my M once and was told that I would have to remove the suitcase weights and weight brackets, because they were not original equipment for that model.
  10. But the LP head is in the manufacturer's (IH) part book for a 450.
  11. Are you sure that the lines were not all the same length on the 6.9L/7.3L IDI engines? I have worked on plenty of these and am pretty certain that they are. I haven't worked on the GM diesels that often to comment on those, but I couldn't imagine that they aren't also all the same length lines. The pictures below are 6.9/7.3 lines and they all appear to be the same length and I would almost guarantee that they are.
  12. New engines still follow this, unless they are common rail injection and then the line length doesn't matter as much because they are electronically actuated. On a mechanical diesel injection system, all injector lines must be the same length, otherwise timing will be off on individual cylinders.
  13. They have a factory stock class around here and you are not supposed to have any parts or components on the tractor that were not available in the parts book for that tractor. This includes suitcase weights or weight brackets on older tractors that were never available with them. Edit: The class is called pure stock and here is the rule about parts used on the tractor: Tractors must have stock wheels for the model being pulled. Tractors must have a stock drawbar and pull from factory pulling point. If a part is not in manufacturer's part book it cannot be used, with the exception of straight exhaust pipe, alternator and electronic ignition. Tractor must have original air cleaner and carburetor It seems like an LP head would fit in there because it is in the manufacturers part book.
  14. Going bigger than needed on injector line size has been shown to give lower hp numbers on the dyno.
  15. If you just want the original then it is available through many outlets, including Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-Delco-Part-No-A-1100805/dp/B01J6CT9NG Its just a 32 amp delco alternator, replacement ones can be higher.
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