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acbjohn

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About acbjohn

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/28/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Horseheads, NY
  • Interests
    Antique tractors and gas engines

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721 profile views
  1. I have a '67 500 with a gas engine...which needs to be bored and new pistons/rings installed. I'm toying with the idea of swapping for a BD-154 as all my other equipment is diesel. Thoughts? Availability of an engine? Since both the 144 and 154 were used in these machines, I shouldn't require much to adapt. Are the 144's as hard starting as everyone claims (must use glow plugs every time)?
  2. 5 years ago I had my tracks repinned and rebushed. I got parts from Ohio and Italy...because there were no complete sets together in any one place. As for links...I can't speak to that...mine are 50%.
  3. Coyote Crossing - you didn't waste any time asking about the price! LOL. I agree with the low oil/blade chatter issue and that it may affect the reverser. If my trans oil is low, the blade will chatter coming up, especially on an upslope. Unfortunately, I can't help with the reverser as mine is a 5 spd with a very tired gas engine. Still pushes like mad, but needs a .020" in-frame rebuild.
  4. What an awesome outcome! persistence pays!! Your dad would be proud!
  5. UC parts are like hen's teeth, however, if you know a machine shop and heat treat facility, I have the drawings for pins/bushings. It has a power reverser and diesel engine. Both of those would be valuable to someone.
  6. Disturbed, I have a 500 with a PAT blade...forgive my ignorance, but on a TD-15 the tilt was accomplished with a cylinder in place of the upper blade supports. I think there is additional freedom designed into those so that the tilt function doesn't overstress the pivot points. The hydraulic modification is easy (in my mind) compared to the actual blade tilt.
  7. I built up the center of mine by welding laser-cut segments on after hardfacing the outside edge. Granted, I don't put a lot of hours on...but it's holding up (little visible wear) after 4 years.
  8. The steering clutches are spring applied. If you have a broken spring(s) or worn fiber disks, it will slip. If it steers OK, then they are releasing correctly. If you go to the trouble of pulling one to rebuild it, pull them both and install new fibers and steel disks from www.steeringclutch.com.
  9. If the left side clutch is slipping that would cause it. When were they last rebuilt?
  10. Mine are button type like Kurly posted.
  11. Congrats on the pins and bushings...they are like hen's teeth! I had mine redone a couple of years ago and to get a complete set, they came from all across the globe! As for the sprockets, your best bet may be to have them rebuilt by welding the gullet between the teeth.
  12. The order of components is pretty critical...and if someone didn't put it back together correctly, how would you have known when you took it apart? Good catch! ...and good luck. As a side note, I'm still not happy with my brake adjustment. It is not to the "book", but it's the only way I can get it to function correctly in forward. However, after a couple of hours, the braking fades going forward. I will keep playing with things and if I come up with a solution (more band movement with the steering handle), I will let you all know. My goal is to change the mechanism geometry at the
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