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About acbjohn

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/28/1969

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Horseheads, NY
  • Interests
    Antique tractors and gas engines

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  1. T340 Pad Replacement

    Most people torch off the head, being careful not to gouge the pad. That way you don't heat the link. Then punch the remainder down thru the link. A 3/4" impact will get the new bolts and nuts tight enough they won't work their way loose. Be sure to get track pad bolts and nuts.
  2. 500 steering clutches/brakes

    Those pins are not originals. Mine were severely worn so I used what I had. Yes, you have to pull the clutch covers. In my case, my 13 yr old protege is quick with the speed wrench and can pull them in under 5 min. We've worn out the threads on the 3/8 HHCS making adjustments and tweaking!
  3. 500 steering clutches/brakes

    BTW, this mod does not require pulling the brake bands. You just need to remove the actuation arm off the band.
  4. 500 steering clutches/brakes

    Sorry for the delay in the son and I put the steering clutches back in with the modified brake actuation...OMG!!! Am I a happy man! Quick back story... I have a 1973 Allis Chalmers garden tractor with a shuttle shift. It is the biggest PITA to get adjusted right. When you do, it works great. Back to my 500... I seat of the pants adjusted the clutches and brakes. They are nearly perfect. I plan to back off the brake actuation a little as I want the clutches to release a little more so I can gradually turn without applying the brake. The brakes come on so much quicker that the handles never get near the front of the seat. And (maybe due in part to rebuilding the brake bans support pins) but it works perfectly in forward and reverse. I think the adjustment is not so critical now and it doesn't seem like it takes much more effort to hold the brake on. It has never steered so well in the time I've owned it. I am more than happy to share any and all details on my mod.
  5. 500 steering clutches/brakes

    In theory this will work. My biggest issue now is the worn clutch release shaft bushings. The top of the shaft moves rearward before it starts to rotate. I tried to pull the shafts but I can't get them to slide out of the release fork. I may try again using the block that the link pushes on and a slide hammer. I want to press in new bushings and ream to size. That way I would get immediate clutch release after taking up the slack.
  6. 500 steering clutches/brakes

    I'm in the reassembly process, too. I welded up the the support pins that engage the brake bands and I welded a boss around the hole in the band so there is no way they can wedge on the end of the pin. I also changed the lever geometry on the band. The pivot that the adjuster goes through had been moved up 1/2". This reduces my mechanical advantage, but increases band movement when the pedal is applied or lever is pulled. The clutch disengagement will be more critical as I need to release the clutch well before the brake comes on. Testing one side looks very promising. In 3 years of use, I have virtually no wear on my lining, so I think you are better off running them so they drag a bit and give you plenty of braking. One note on the levers I modified...they are HARD. I ground off the rivet and drilled new holes with a carbide endmill. A drill didn't want to get through the surface. I thought my bits were dull...nope! I will take pix tonight and post.
  7. 500 steering clutches

    Kurly, My parts manual shows 2 different configurations. In the steering clutch housing they show a rectangular plate with the anchor pin with bolts through from the underside. A few pages later, the final drive support shows the pin as part of it. Since the pin provides the lateral support, and is a pilot fit into the steering clutch housing, it's tough to remove. There are shim washers between the support plate and the final drive housing. Assembly should be easier since everything is cleaned up. Now I just have to remove the 3 5/16" bolts that twisted off.
  8. 500 steering clutches

    I added to the length (1/8"?) and will check fit and grind if they are too long. I would like them to extend into the lining about 1/2 of its thickness. As the lining wears, the brake band will move closer to the tip of the anchor pin. NYS muzzleloader season ends Tuesday, so I'll be in the woods this weekend. I'll provide more updates early next week.
  9. 4 years ago I revived a 500 from a near-certain trip the scrap yard. A couple of hundred hours later and $70,000 savings on a driveway (as-quoted), I've got some down-time and want to see if I can improve the steering. The brake band anchor pins were worn and had significant erosion from the chemical attack of mouse urine. The brake linings show virtually no wear, so I'm confident that if I get this right I won't be back in there unless it of for minor adjustments. Mine always steered well in reverse, others have commented that theirs steer well forward. Wouldn't BOTH directions be nice?! I have a theory that the wear on the anchor pins was causing my brake bands to wedge in reverse, giving me good control. With little or no wear on the brake lining, I believe I either need the bands tighter to start, or after clutch release, a quicker actuation of the brake by changing the mechanism geometry. I've welded up the pins and they will be hand-ground to the finished diameter and length. This is a great little machine...if it only steered better...more to follow. Below are the before/after pictures of the anchor pins.
  10. Torque1, Nice looking machine. Mine is gas also. Engine parts (if you need them) are readily available, however, pistons get pricy. Mine is pretty worn (.010" over), but I'm running stock pistons and new rings...down a little on HP but it gets the job done! I agree with you on the gears...5th would shake your teeth out unless you had Coyote's track pads (IIRC he has a set) or you were running in sand. Your hydraulic tank is a bit of a mystery. The transmission/bevel gear housings are the reservoir for the hydraulic system. Unless someone added an accessory with a large volume demand, I'm not sure why you would need another oil supply. Manuals help a lot...but so do the good people here!
  11. The hydraulic reservoir on my 500 gas is the transmission. Fill through the plug in the top (3/4" NPT) of the transmission. Mine has a steel baffle and I fill it just over that (~1" below the hole). No dipstick on mine.
  12. IH500 Blade edge

    Mine was made by Evolution Edges locally. They are 1085 steel and not heat treated. I pulled some strings with our local heat treating house and they brought them up to 38 HRc. The center had to be 2 pieces to fit in their furnace. I left the end bits square so they could be flipped (50 years from now)!
  13. IH500 Blade edge

    Before and after. Since these are NLA, my local edge manufacturer customer made them and I had them heat treated.

    The order of components is pretty critical...and if someone didn't put it back together correctly, how would you have known when you took it apart? Good catch! ...and good luck. As a side note, I'm still not happy with my brake adjustment. It is not to the "book", but it's the only way I can get it to function correctly in forward. However, after a couple of hours, the braking fades going forward. I will keep playing with things and if I come up with a solution (more band movement with the steering handle), I will let you all know. My goal is to change the mechanism geometry at the brake band. If it works, at least Coyotecrossing and I will have machines that work equally well in forward and reverse!