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Super A_sepa

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Everything posted by Super A_sepa

  1. Yes & yes. Or just swap the tip on the implement if all your tractors have IH couplers.
  2. No neutral switch on the shifter on anything before the last half ish of the 86's but they would have all had the clutch switch. And that switch sensed if the tractor was in park, it still had the clutch switch too. Having it wont prevent it from starting in gear though, will just make it that you have to have the clutch pushed in to start which is a good habit anyhow. I might have a picture of the L bracket too
  3. Could set/weld one mower a half inch or so lower and overlap the blades an inch to avoid that strip in the middle... Or turn one around so it is "backwards" and they discharge oppositely even though they turn the same way. Any way you look at it it's way too much work to accomplish not much "A" for effort though.
  4. Abilene machine carries the most correct aftermarket fender and after using several sets of them I wouldn't spend the money on original fenders unless you found a good deal. On the cheap on a 56 with the factory cab platform, take a grinder and cut the raised lip off. The fenders mount rigid and dont need to be tied into the platform though the right platform and tying them in looks right when you're done.
  5. I havent done the exact same swap but thinking what I've changed from swapping a motor from a Hyrdo 70 (same design) it shouldn't be too tall of task. Some 686s would have had the 310 German so most parts you need could probably be sourced from that as well. I hadnt thought of the 544D as a source for the rear plate, but without looking it up I think it would work. You're basically going to end up with a later 686 when you're done so you can use them for inspiration and a visual. Your front cover is not going to line up, it will be wide and will need narrowed down (machined, portaba
  6. Agreed!! I had saw it on agtalk and thought it was odd I hadn't heard about it on here till I saw it in the projects section a few days ago. I like the project section but miss the discussion that might follow in the general or coffee shop sections. I'm very interested in how this project is put together.
  7. Guess some would have an electronically engaged PTO, but on one with a handle to engage it, start the tractor and tie the fuel solenoid back, and unhook the batteries, and you'll lose cab functions (dash, fan, radio, wipers, lights, etc) and 3pt hitch control. It would run and drive fine and your remotes would be normal. You just wouldn't have a readout of how fast you were doing what or count hours.
  8. No it's not that critical and anything close will work, but why not try to make it where its supposed to be if you have to go to the trouble to make something?
  9. It could be a minor detail but a 7/8" spacer all around is what is sticking in my mind, not 15/16". But I did not measure our loaders or the brackets we have on our small frame tractors.
  10. I have a hard time picturing a gold demo being sent out with no 3 point hitch and a single front wheel... The single front would be easy enough to change but it doesnt appear to have ever had 3 pt
  11. The last several months the ones we have gotten from Riley tractor parts have fit correctly and done their job without modifying them. And they are a little darker red color than the ones that always needed a little tweaking.
  12. I love the old style IH couplers. But most all our equipment is big tips but the adapters work fine for the few things that aren't. Never had a cam break inside, etc and they've been used plenty. The rubber covers for them aren't terrible but most of ours lost off, doesnt take long to wipe them out though if they do fill up. Gets aggravating when the ISO remotes spit the hose back out our wont couple. And it isnt practical dollar wise to switch all our stuff over. As for the original topic, it looks like they were linked a few posts ago but I have also seen where guys just took a
  13. 544 narrow front . I liked using my 300 narrow front too. 706 narrow front is nice to use too. I like my narrow fronts especially for raking.
  14. The hoods and frame rails are all the same length on the 66s. The exhaust side section of the hood has the hole placed differently for whichever tractor it came off of, but the dimensions are the same. The 766s used a deeper fan shroud to make up for the shorter length of the 360 engine.
  15. Just curious which gaskets have been a problem for you?
  16. That is what we have understood around here, that the dealers (CNH) switch suppliers and now everything is coming from Reliance. The few kits we have not been able to source elsewhere have seemed to be ok, but we will not use their gaskets.
  17. That would be it yes. Make sure those threads are good and clean, wash/blow the crud out then screw the adapter in and then put the seal in. The right size pipe makes putting the seal in easier if you have one lying around.
  18. They make a seal adapter that threads into the rear of the housing and then is machined to accept the same seal. I know ag parts makes them, not sure who else. Then you dont have to take anything apart.
  19. They do have the one squirter as said above. It's just that they dont have the second one. Put the turbo on and run it. Be a little mindful what you have, keep an eye on temps. Reading your post again yes you are right that you should get the rear section of the middle hood since the fill hole is not in the middle or is in the middle (I cant remember which tank is where off the top of my head) You can also tweak the fill to work I think but if you have access to the parts and want to do it right that makes everything nicer.
  20. I borrowed the tool from the dealer when I replaced them on my 300, but I think I remember researching it and people using sockets or something like that to go back together. With the tool is was a piece of cake so I didnt have to try another way.
  21. I agree. Without knowing any more than we do about what the jobs of the tractor will be I cant not reccomend a magnum. It doesnt have to be a low hour one, or super nice, and wont be as cheap as a beat 66 or 86 but will be a lot nicer to operate I think. I worked on a 4 post ROPS magnum a few months back and I'd rather that then a 1066 even though you lose the magnum cab, you still get the other features of the magnum.
  22. It wouldn't need a 1086 rear for that and that wouldn't mean it had 3 1/2 axles neccesarily either. That was one of the changes made leading up to the 86's, but still is a 3 1/4 axle. Plenty of blackstripe 1066's around with 6 hole wheels, our 806 even has them on after the clamp style wouldn't hold up.
  23. We have a 666 Hydro Diesel. It's been a good tractor for us. Know of at least one Hydro 70 D in the neighborhood. Those small frame hydros are really nice. My 544DH is my favorite (but it's also the nicest) but we had a 656DH and then later Hydro 86 with the 312 on the mixer wagon and a Hydro 86 with the 310 that pulls the sprayer. The 666's main job for the several decades it's been here has been to pull the 1034 New Holland stack wagon. That pair has covered a lot of ground over the years.
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