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Super A_sepa

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Everything posted by Super A_sepa

  1. Talk to Jesse at Restoration Tractor Sales in Lancaster PA. He has Federal Mogul kits for the 8.3s in Magnums, not sure what your looking for a kit for. Would be the best choice for a high quality kit I think.
  2. It's definitely doable but is a lot of details. Have seen one done where they just slid the bolster out a set of holes, maybe 2 holes, but that looked pretty goofy compared to doing it right lengthening frame rails. I suppose 66/86 rails would work but you will have a funny offset at your bellhousing where they will stick out close to an inch and then like was said you'll have to shim it for front bolster. Bottom radiator hose from a 666 with the 312 is what I've used on mine and that had the right offset to line up. Top hose is the same I think as any 66 or 86. 856 Cu fuel tank is going to be easier since it is mounted on the bottom instead of braced on the head. Think you'll have to lose the heat shield and probably shorten the tank. Narrow front will make it a little easier but only because you won't have to have holes for the rear support of the front axle. They should be there already and if the frame rails were spliced with thought given for them the same holes will line up anyway. I think I remember seeing Leamans having a throttle crossover setup to get the rod to the left side for the pump. One of mine I mounted a 66 setup on and the other I reused the German setup up on (756, 826). Wiring harness should be close enough to work. Front cover will need cut down on the ears to fit the frame rails and then the rails drilled for the mounting bolt.
  3. There has been an ad in the Agtalk classifieds for new German water manifolds, looks like the photo above if I remember right. Could be the same outfit.
  4. Odd how it seems it's only in pockets. Here can probably think of close to a half dozen custom guys. Most went rye corn double crop so everything has to be chopped at once in spring instead of semi steady hay chopping all year. Most all have at least one challenge in common: enough skilled operators there when you need them for maybe 10 weeks out of the year. I only helped chop sorghum twice I think, hauled some for a farmer that was direct cutting it with a disc head, 13 or 15 foot. Had enough power to run that though. We had chopped some sorghum Sudan grass that was 13 some feet tall and merged into too big of row. That was slooowww going. Truck hardly had a low enough gear.
  5. I know them Deeres are usually pretty stout in the PTO but the only tractor we've had repeated problems with on the Fieldline blower was a 4630...three PTO shafts later it got a new job. Blower shaft straight and tractor shaft straight, no binding etc and never gave trouble on other tractors before or since but it just didn't work with that one. That's small 1000, I assume a 40 with big 1000 would be fine.
  6. Ipto shaft and gear are semi common occurrences in this pocket of the country on stock/stock+ tractors. At 200 hp you'll find weak links and it will not be the PTO every time unless someone isn't doing something correctly. It will have less life but isn't like you should be replacing them every week. Pressure will be critical. More then a few of them within an hour radius that are used hard on PTO applications with over 200 horse. Ones closer to 250 pulling a 3 row NH chopper. I'm not sure what chopper the poster is wanting to pull buy trying to chop with 145 horse is going to be like digging to China with a shovel. It's better than a spoon, but won't be getting anywhere fast. Any pt chopper that is built today (not many) is built for 250-300hp. Older smaller models won't need that much power but 200 would be nice to chop and not be running out of power with a full wagon up a hill. Corn will take more power then hay especially if the chopper has a processor.
  7. PTO will last for some time, not as long as lower power but if it's right it'll last awhile. At 200 hp you might find the next weakest link, ipto gear or upper ipto shaft likely, or rivets in pressure plate. Chopper shouldn't be a start-stop operation to slip it excessively and should be a fairly even feeding. If you tear up the lower PTO gear there is a heavier duty than OE gear available.
  8. Oh yea. Subs/stereos, chicken lights, under glow lights, you name it.
  9. Guessing 12v with a converter, either a deep cycle marine battery or your favorite brand of battery driven power tools with an adapter. That's what energizes the lights and other electric functions of the buggy. Joked with him about mounting an alternator on the axle and he said that has been tried but is too much drag. I'd think if you could engage and disengage it somehow it could work as a Jake brake...didn't put a whole lot of brain power in figuring it out though.
  10. Now for something you've probably never seen before! Have a friend of mine that is getting married this fall and also ordered a new enclosed carriage. We were talking about it in the shop one day and the idea of putting the IH western interior in it came up. He loves the design and wanted make his a little different than all the other carriages so we ordered a roll of it and sent it to the carriage shop and the buggy got delivered a few weeks ago. Has gotten a lot of comments and compliments on it, sounds like he is the first to put it in at least around here but will not be the last! Wanted to share this unusual project with you guys. Also, a buggy is not any cheaper than a vehicle! Think around 13,000 or a little more depending on options and then you still need a motor (horse) in front of it.
  11. I like the 56 looks...but the 66 has better engine parts available at cheaper prices and is less costly to work on. Collecting I'd pick the 856, farming I'd pick a 1066 and if that was just too big I'd go 766 and put a turbo on it. Even though they are all the same frame size. I just never got on the 966 wagon. I'm not sure why.
  12. That would depend on the geometry of the tongue I guess. On mine I have the duals set in pretty tight, so the tractor is about 11 feet wide. I don't think we have any implements that I could turn tight enough to rub the tongue. Implements with short tongues you would have to be mindful of catching the dual but not because it would hit the tongue neccesarily. On a tractor with duals set out wide it would be easier to catch a tongue on probably. I kept them in for running down the road, at 11 feet you know its a little wide but really wasn't terrible here in the land of tourists and buggies. The 2wd 7140 with no rear weights but wearing duals had little difference in traction to the 4wd 4850 with 1500 or 2000 lbs rear weight on 710x42 singles and it would not get pushed sideways as quickly. We always rathered singles for road running but now with bigger carts and running singles and duals side by side, we were pretty much instantly sold on the duals being better for our application. With one of Bierman Sales's dual changers and a dowel bolt putting duals on would probably become a pretty simple task. A 2wd Magnum looks like a big tractor but it is surprisingly nimble for its size. You do sit up higher in it than a 5000 series tractor.
  13. That's a good ways from here. But yes they do need replaced some times. 381493R1 should be the part number, Messicks shows to have one in stock, would think dealers near there could get them or have one too.
  14. X2. I like the directions that brillmans come with that makes it easier to get everything right. The Porch harnesses I've put on don't have them and while doable does take more thinking what goes where.
  15. I'd have to think a Magnum with duals would pull it easily but that almost seems overkill in my head. Pretty astounding difference in traction from singles to duals even with no added weight. Maxxums just seem like light tractors the little I've drove them.
  16. A hydro is not a replacement for a powershift for heavy jobs but a powershift is not a replacement for a hydro in a lot of light jobs. I love my Magnum but even with 18 gears there were several times this fall on a silage cart with it that I thought "Man I almost need another gear here." Beside the smaller machine it was almost between 6 and 7 and the big machine was choosing between 8 and 9 or 9 and 10 depending on the corn. Just wasn't a great 4.2-4.5 mph gear at 1500ish rpms. Don't need to run wide open in the field and can save fuel but don't like to run it at 1250 rpm loading all the time either. That would not be a job a hydro could do with a cart that big and 18 gears don't pose that problem near as often as 8 or 15 but you still have some fixed ground speeds at a given rpm. To be fair I grew up with half a dozen plus hydros and after going no till, very very little field work was done with our gear drive tractors. I wish IH would have had a powershift or a hydro (actually the hydro-mechanical that Danny has in his collection should have been it) for the trans options and done away with the 8 speed and TA long before they did. But then some would probably not have bought the tractors because they would have cost more. Yes the 800 heads were very similar just was saying that it was not that Deere had a drastically better product.
  17. They may have been behind in a few areas but hardly all of those. Hydrostatic tractors, Early Riser planter units, Axial Flow combines were major innovations as well, along with the 800 series cornheads. I wouldn't say there was a whole lot for IH to catch up to the new generation deeres on.
  18. Copperhead Road always works Finally Friday by George Jones Loud Thunder Heavy Rain by Cody Jinks Is Anybody Going to San Antone by Charley Pride Amarillo by Morning by George Straight Dirt We Were Raised on by Jason Aldean Brothers of the Highway by George Straight Prisoner of the Highway by Ronnie Milsap "Some people work just to survive, but up here in this cab is when I'm most alive" ....how I feel whenever I'm in a tractor. Lot of good songs mentioned
  19. Have had several out that got deformed or lost their strength, usually if the clutch disc's got hot enough that the heat hurt the spring. Have had one or two that were deformed enough they did not need compressed to be removed. I know where several used ones that were pulled out of good donor units but I don't know where you are.
  20. I think about him from time to time. Would be a fun service call to make! I think I did see his topic come up within the last few weeks maybe month or two, had gotten back up there and had parts maybe(?) But that was the last I read. Hope it goes well for him.
  21. Can be done, around 1500 in parts and close to that in labor I'm thinking but I don't remember exactly. Maybe it was less but nothing has gone down recently it seems. Depends on condition of the used parts you get or if you buy new crank arms etc or if lower arms are perfect or pretty much shot. Swapping the whole top cover is easier than installing all the parts on your cover. Saves a lot of time. Talk to Jesse at Restoration Tractor Sales in Lancaster PA. I think he has put together or sent out "kits" for people to do it before. Off the top of my head you need Top cover for 3pt Tractor with lift arms Leveling screw lift arms Lower arms Sway linkage Drawbar support Lower torsion shaft Top link cover Gaskets New o ring carriers New nylon bushings Also would be a good time to replace any parts on your remote handles if they are slopped out since you'll have them off to swap to a 3pt top cover.
  22. Had a safe and fairly sound silage harvest here. Pretty much wrapped up, little late corn and barley corn left yet but not much. 4850 dropped a valve, my magnum needed injectors and then my ac quit right at the end. 2wd Magnum filled in for the 4850, it did extremely well for being 2wd and no weights just the duals. It didn't seem to loose traction much easier than the 48 on big singles. This was our first year with the bigger green carts and we sold ourselves on the duals, no contest that they hold on side hills better and have more traction than large singles. Broke a spindle on a cart, empty though. Bearing went out in fan gearbox on one harvester. Maybe some other small things that I'm forgetting. Lot of fun again as always working with friends. Would be fun to come play along with you other crews some.
  23. Yes. Same button as the 72s had here but located in the wide coverage fender.
  24. Yep. Have to cut it open to get it out. Too bad no one has come up with a better way yet. Depending on the location of the bag I either love it or hate it. Not as nice as sitting still at a blower but is nice to not be able to plug it like a blower. I hate making bags up hill where the tractor always wants to roll back. Problem is worse with trucks. Level to downhill is nice. I like baggers with backstops for the braking so you can make bags going whatever way you want. I don't like the auger baggers I've been around that just have brakes on the bagger wheels and then use a bar to apply the tractor brakes to pack the bag. Making a good bag the looks nice and stores well is as much of an art as a science I think. The Kelly Ryan big bagger is my favorite bagger I've been around, 10 footer preferably and works really well with a shade over 200hp. 150 or 170 just isn't enough to get any capacity.
  25. Grille lights Wide fenders Narrow axles, 96" I think but I'd have to measure. Tight to get duals on. "Beltline" flashers halfway up the cab posts and flashers in the rear fenders No cab roof flashers Common with trailer brakes valves 72s and later had the faster road speed, also more common to have park lock issues it seems like. Common with beacon light Commonly have claw/loose ball 3pt lower arms Some have different drawbar support Switches back on RH console with flashers and shutdown over ride switch etc Turn signals do not over ride flashers Commonly have fat rubber, sometimes 20.8s Some have special euro type hydraulic hitches for trailers over there I guess Foreign writing on cab decals (fuse panel, warning label behind seat) Regular hood lights do not come on with flashers, the grill lights pair with them. Over there they didn't seem to fade to white as fast as here More common with 4 remotes I think Here's mine. I pretty much Americanized it as much as practical, added roof flashers and rewired flasher/Turn signal switch and put all the side switches back on the dash and put the American cup holder in and went to 18.4x42s and then added duals. Right at about 11' Wide but my dual hubs are flush with the end of my axle.
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