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Cooter

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Everything posted by Cooter

  1. So I did some digging and finally found my parts book for the loader. These valves don't have the small piston with the little O-ring on them - which is good, because they are $30 each. So all I really need is to replace the O-rings and that will seal it up and keep it from leaking? What do the detent balls do? Is that for the float position? One valve on this has the long tube off the back and the other does not, so I would assume that is what it is for.
  2. I am rebuilding some remote valves and maybe I'm making this more complicated than it needs to be......... These are doing the same as so many others, leaking out the cap in the end plug, so when I told my dealer I wanted the rebuild kits to do 4 remotes they gave me a bunch of O-rings and 4 tiny pins. Is that all there is to keeping them from leaking out the back is one O-ring? I guess I expected it to be more complex than that. I took the two end plugs off, but didn't find anything that looked like it could be serviced, so I put them back in. I looked at the online parts diag
  3. I have a 6R-900 with a 1000 pto pump that I thought about planting with a 656 hydro. I know they made a 540 pump for these planters, but apparently they aren't very common because I can't readily find one. I've seen pictures and they were a big behemoth looking thing hanging off the back of the tractor - is that really the best IH could come up with?? 🙄🙄 If the planter only requires only 8gpm, how come I couldn't run it off the tractor hydraulics? My only concern would be running through the remote valve would be one would have priority, so lifting the planter on the head land would ei
  4. My pivot ball for the hitch on my MacDon has wore through the top holder. I can't find any kind of repair pieces to weld on top to hold the ball in place, all I can find are replacement weld on units like you would find at TSC. Any ideas? I don't know how much it really pivots side-to-side, I thought about doing away with the ball, welding a plate with a 1" whole over the larger ball hole and putting a draw pin through if I can't find a replacement.
  5. I have heard rumblings about this from multiple people because of the soggy spring we are having. I am leery because it sounds like a to-good-to-be-true kind of deal; you get paid to not do nothing. I feel like there is some kind of catch that I am missing, because there is no free lunch. If you take the prevent plant are you going to be punished for years to come with extra high premiums or take a major hit on your yield average? I feel like this is getting a "0" on a final exam in school, despite how well you have done in the past, you're final grade is going to take a severe beati
  6. I recently bought a 504 diesel and the guy had a 340 diesel parts tractor that he made part of the deal. I really didn't think anything about it until someone told me that they are pretty rare and made less than 100 340 Diesels, is that true? I never really paid attention to those because we don't have any of that series in the collection, I never thought many 340's were made, period, but tractor data says they made over 12,000 of them. The engine is stuck, it's missing some sheet metal pieces, missing the radiator, and needs a total restoration, BUT it didn't end up in shredder, so wh
  7. They are always so far away......
  8. Has anyone bought anything in Canada? Is there some kind of Duty or do you pay state sales tax when you bring it back over to the US? If you are a farm and tax exempt with an EIN#, does that get you out of any Duty's? I'm not sure how it works, but would like to know the details before I commit to buy. Having your equipment confiscated by the customs agents doesn't sound like much fun....
  9. We looked at buying a 4568 a few years ago, had 42XX hours on it. It needed some love, but the price was right. I am red to the core and never pass up an opportunity to buy one, but passed just because of the DV800. I have never read a post ever had anything positive to say about them, which is sad. And it's not one specific thing either, it's the whole engine; bearings, valve train, gaskets, O-rings, all of it. The stories seem end with some catastrophic failure or ridiculously expensive rebuild. If you and dad love the tractor, demote it light duty and baby it along. We looked fo
  10. They are the same, at least my two were. My 706 gas and 806 diesel, both early serial numbers, both had 13/49 ring and pinions, same differential, and 2-1/2" wide bull gears. I had always heard the 706 was suppose to be lighter, but when I opened them up I was surprised to find they were the same. BUT an 806 is 2" taller and 3" longer. The grill shell and legs of the pedestal are taller, which means all the shift linkages are longer, to account for the taller engine and larger fuel tank. And the frame rails are longer. 806 Diesel 706 Gas
  11. My new addition, since I had everything all apart, was M&W hydraulics. I wasn't sure where exactly sure how it went on, so I fabricated my own set up. Good or bad, I will soon find out if this was a smart idea or not. I wanted to keep the belly pump because I have a cultivator hydraulic valve I want to put on in the future, and that needs the belly pump to work correctly. What has bothered me in these older hydraulic systems was the fact that there wasn't any type of filtration of any kind. No matter how clean you try and keep the fittings, inevitably there is small pieces
  12. So here is where I am at: Lots of new bearings and a few used. I had a set of good used outside axle bearings and a used the differential bearings off my parts tractor on the inner axle; which had more balls that the ones that failed. Lots and lots of cleaning to get all the debris out of the transmission and axle housings. There was some fabricating and problem solving while installing the M&W 9-speed, but it is 80% back together. I did set the ring and pinion for final back lash of 0.007 with the shims I had; I figured that with new bearings it would wear in some and get me bac
  13. I was trying to do some kind of bearing identification to figure out how they came up with the replacements. Some of the bearings I got had fewer, yet larger, balls than what was in there originally. Were they superseded because they were cheaper? I had to do some digging to come up with direct replacement number of balls per bearing. I would have thought that the more smaller balls would make the bearing stronger? It seems to me that the larger balls being further apart would put more stress on the cage...... I didn't have any luck looking up bearings on Rock Auto 😕, which is a bumm
  14. My shifter on my H is really sloppy so I bought one of the kits from Steiner, but I guess I'm not sure what the round piece does? The two holes in the platform are really sloppy and what was left of the pin is tapered to a point on each end, so I'm pretty sure this kit isn't going to fix it without some machining. I may end up taking the kit back and fabricating my own. Anyone used one of these? They sell another kit for $40 that is threaded on one end, but I'm not sure if that would fix the sloppiness either. In the pictures, what is the top piece of round stock for? I didn't see anythi
  15. I am looking for a replacement tach for a 350 gas. I don't have one to rebuild, so I am going aftermarket. There is a HUGE difference in price from different companies, from $30 to $150 for new ones. Despite who has them for sale, they all look relatively the same; faces and needles look the same, some are painted ring others are chrome. I can't imagine that there is that much of a demand that several companies are making them and offer them at different quality levels. So what is the difference between a $30 and $150 aftermarket tach, other than price?
  16. I have a #24 and wondered the same thing! We have grown several acres of sweet corn in the past and picking it by hand gets old, real fast. I found this picture online and thought, that's a #24 picking sweet corn 🤯🤯🤯🤯 All of the literature I've seen regarding pickers, none of them makes any reference to picking sweet corn, so I didn't know what kind of job it would do. I have a parts book for the #24 and, if I recall correctly (been a few years since I looked at it) it doesn't show any different part numbers for the snapper rolls. We have a Uni-System and I was considering a Byron/Pixall
  17. Really? I was just on there looking and nothing came up when I typed in the bearing numbers. Is there a specific place I should be looking? I know the ST-227-B that carries the differential and inner axle superseded to a different part number through CNH and spit out an SKF bearing, so maybe I will have to put those numbers in and see what comes out.
  18. Cool, thank you! I've had hit or miss luck with NAPA, you just have to be careful. I have bought various bearings through them, opened the box, and they were china bearings. So they may have been cheaper than the dealer and Motion Industries, but they were cheaper bearings to begin with. CNH has gotten better too, they are back to using USA brand bearings, mainly SKF and Bower, so I feel more confident in ordering through them.
  19. I am in the process of doing this at the moment with my H, so I will get you all the bearing part numbers. From there they can cross-reference either at your dealer or bearing shop
  20. Did anyone find a service manual that tells about setting the ring and pinion?
  21. I think so. I know they sell the Turkish and USA one. He was telling me about the cheap china one and how they are sold as a "one pump fits all" even though they don't.
  22. Typical for me, what started as one project has escalated into a major money absorbing rebuild 😕 Due to wore input bearings and a failed main shaft pilot bearing, it broke 4th gear. Thankfully, I've had a M&W 9-speed waiting to go in for years, but never had a NEED to install it, until now. When pulling it apart I noticed that the ring gear back lash was excessive, to put it lightly, which explains the howling noise in 5th; sadly, it's worn out too. SO, that means pulling it down to an empty housing, taking stock in what I had, and starting over 😔 ALL the bearings are badly wor
  23. Thanks for all the input on sources, I forgot to follow up with everyone. I re-read what I wrote and realized that I forgot to tell you that it was going in a 706. I was hesitant about ordering one because I wasn't sure what was going to show up when the box arrived; either expensive china junk or a USA made unit. When I was at the Farm Show I stopped by the Bates booth and talked with Brian who told me there were 3 pumps offered by everyone: A china one, a Turkish one - that was what CNH sold, and a USA made one. Well, that choice was easy, I buy American over any others any time
  24. I need a larger pump so I can run the loader better, so I am putting in a 17 gpm pump. Where is the best place to buy them? I know I can pay the big money and buy it from mother Fiat, but with them being a global company, they could be buying aftermarket made pumps and repackaging them; or they are making them in-house Anyone had good luck with aftermarket pumps?
  25. I have a few picked out that I am going to go look at. I would prefer not to buy something that is on the verge of a major mechanical implosion. What are the specific New Holland things I should be watching for? I have heard that the plungers are on rollers that ride in tracks and those could be problematic. I get the common wear or neglect issues, but are there things to look at that I should take notice of to avoid buying a wore out POS?
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