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Everything posted by Cooter

  1. Anyone know anything about these pumps? I have bought a lot of stuff from Surplus Center, but didn't know if these were china made? It kinda looks like you can simply pick what will fit your purpose, so I was just curious. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Pumps/Gear-Pumps/3-11-cu-in-Dynamic-GP-F25-51-S13-A-Hydraulic-Pump-9-12245-C.axd
  2. Ah, well that would explain why the part numbers in the book are NLA and don’t cross reference to anything. The hydraulic valve parts are the same as the tractors; there are 2 for the loader and 5 for the backhoe. Fortunately for me, you're right, I found out this is a standard SAE-2B pump. 7/8”-13 spline, 4” hub, 5-3/4” 2 bolt spacing, and threaded side 1-1/4 inlet, threaded side 1” outlet. The backhoe and loader valves have their own relief valves set at 2500psi, so a pump capable of that or more would be fine. I just don’t know the gpm. A little faster would be ok, but I don't wa
  3. I am restoring a 3444 backhoe special with a 3141 backhoe mounted to it. Stripping it down to fix leaks and broken stuff I discovered that the splines are about wore through on the main pump. It's a 7/8"-13 spline shaft and two bolt flange which seems pretty common, but I cannot find how many GPM it is. I know it's big because of the backhoe, but it also runs the loader. I have IH owners, parts, trouble shooting, and service manuals for it, but no were does it give specifics for pump capacity; it says "see parts manual for replacement" I found a few that were 30GPM, but that seems high se
  4. I will be there Saturday! Maybe I missed it, but are the forum members getting together for a daily picture?
  5. Would you recommend the bronze or anodized aluminum for the 282? The pump shop said it was going to be $200 to put a new bushing in.
  6. When I took it in the first time they told me that it was anodized aluminum, but it seemed pretty hard. I have learned SO much about these pumps in the past few weeks and all the major differences that they have; basically that only the aluminum casing is the same, everything else is different. This pump originally came off an 806. I put it on here 5 years ago when the torsional vibration dampener came apart on the original 706 pump. As a matter of fact when they were rebuilding this and setting it up, I learned that the internal timing advance was different between a 7 & 806.
  7. It's not as bad as it looks, sandblasting it made it look a lot worse than it actually is. Spring and plunger is Ok, but I am pretty sure that isn't where my problem is.
  8. I'm starting assembly, but I wanted to double check a few things with you all before I finished. Bushing is flush with the back cover. How much of a gap is there suppose to be? Even more important is, does this movement seem excessive? The pump shop said that the bushing and shaft were tight, but this seems like A LOT being that I replaced the idler shaft bushing and it wasn't really even that wore. I can see this causing excessive gear wear. The old gear has been rubbing on the front
  9. I guess the reason that I keep circling the wagons with this is because I have not found a cause of the failure, which is really bothersome. And because no one has chimed in saying that this a relatively common problem, then I assume that it isn't. Which means that either that this was a weird fluke and may not ever happen again OR I haven't come across the problem yet; so either one of these two can cause it to happen again.
  10. So I got my pump back from the shop yesterday. It cost me $75 for them to put it on the calibration stand to re-check it and not find anything wrong. They guy who works on them has been doing it for 42 years and seemingly knows these pumps backwards and forwards, so I trust what he says. He said it wasn’t out of spec at all and ran out fine without any noises. He kept saying how lucky I was because it doesn’t take much deflection to bind the rotor into the cam ring and seize the pump. He said the stresses of the gear teeth climbing each other is shocking to him that it didn’t bind enough t
  11. I have a 706 and an 806 both have bad torque amplifiers now. Problem #1, Hard use/abuse: The 806 is the most recent and untimely death. This has always had a strong TA and never given any issues. It was replaced by the original owner in 94-95 at the dealer and has never really had any hours put on it after that; when I put seals in pto drive shaft his initials and date was written in paint marker. It sat for 10 years before I bought it and it only has 4500 hours on the meter now and he told me when I bought it that he had the “heavy TA” put in not that long ago. So…..my wife and
  12. Hhmmmm, this tube doesn't have a bracket ?. Nor does it appear to have ever had one
  13. Oh wow, it sure is.........for a mere $383.80 ?. So at that price I have some room to explore some other options, but will certainly circle back to this should I get in a pinch.........
  14. This pump has he anodized aluminum bushing in it and felt tight with the shaft inserted, no excessive play at all.
  15. I'll do a closer inspection on the balancer to make sure the marks are still lined up, but why would the harmonics target JUST the pump drive gear? I took the pump back to the shop today along with the broken gear and shaft. He looked perplexed and spun the pump around with the broken gear and said it didn't sound or feel abnormal. They are going to put it back on the calibration stand and run it; I'm hoping they find something - not that they would tell me ?. I don't think they are dishonest, but would they say something, I donno. Time will tell.
  16. What makes it align square in the tube and how do you know?
  17. I know there are a few posts regarding this, but I am really struggling with mine. It had the orange O-rings put in when I reassembled the engine and they started leaking , so I put black rtv in the seals, reassembled, and it stopped for a while. Now it started leaking again. It leaks REALLY REALLY bad when it's cold and you first start it up and once it's warm it will stop for the most part, but oil gets expensive when it uses more than a gallon in an afternoon. Anything else to try? A thicker O-ring? Someone told me they make a square ring? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  18. The water pump is growly on the 706 and since I have it all tore apart, now is the time to replace it. Mother Fiat wants $218.92 for a reman water pump, which seems outrageous. So I cruised the net looking for aftermarket and found pumps from $80 ebay specials to $180 aftermarket supplier. I'm sure at this point they are all made in china anyway, including CNH, so it's a matter of supporting small business. As of late, I have had bad luck with CNH having some over priced foreign parts. If I am going to buy foreign stuff there are a lot of other aftermarket people who charge way less and I
  19. Mine appears to be steel, now brass. Is that an issue?
  20. Since we have had some rain I finally got it in the shop and tore it apart, and this is what I found. The idler gear is tight with no wobble or excessive backlash. I was honestly surprised to see that it still had all its teeth, I thought for sure it would have some broken or chipped ones. I have not taken the pump back to the shop yet because I wanted to see what failed, but when I slid the shaft back inside the pump, it feels tight too. So now the question of the hour: what caused it? Was it the new pump or purely coincidental that the gear failed only 10 hours after installatio
  21. Nope, pump is fine and spins freely. That is what I was expecting to find too was a seized pump with a broken shaft. But everything looks ok from the outside. I'll obviously know more when I tear it apart, but we have been in the fields, and although I really need the tractor on the planter, I'm going to keep going without it.
  22. I was expecting a bushing or bearing that had gone bad, I didn't realize that the pump was the carrier for the gear in this application. Regardless if this looks normal with the pump off for a 282, there are definitely some teeth missing......
  23. I haven't had any problems for the last 600 hours. But I put a new injector pump on Saturday afternoon and haven't put 10 hours on it yet when it failed, so I wonder if there is anything wrong with the bushing in the new pump.......
  24. The same place as the gasket and front timing cover, sitting on the bench. It's inside the engine now.
  25. This is the same engine when I installed it 5 years ago. It's a 301 out of a combine and I put the tractor front timing cover on. All the gears and drives are from the 301 with 18xx hours on it. What supports the pump drive gear? I know the idler gear has a babbit bearing in it, but the gear the pump shaft bolts on? Is there a bushing or bearing? I took a 5 sec video of me turning and flopping the shaft around with the pump off, but I can't post any videos for some reason. ?
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