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Everything posted by Cooter

  1. Aren't they just some round stock with a specific sized hole drilled in them? Is there a check valve or anything inside? I haven't examined them that close, so I am asking.
  2. While true with many things, some have good luck and other have bad. I was one of the ones who has had bad luck with Reliance; which is why I am in search of another core engine to rebuild. My 706 diesel head gasket looked like regular gasket material with some copper rings haphazardly stuck in it and was really poor quality; so I search out a Fel-Pro head gasket for that. Had the block honed, installed reliance rings, and now has more blow by now after 1000hrs than the original engine did. The reliance kit in my 806 gave up after about 100 hrs, I think due to a broken piston. I was baling hay when it started knocking, so I immediately shut it off and towed it home. It will start and sounds normal at idle, but begins a distinctive knock at about 1500rpm, so I've only used it to move itself and wagons around the yard. I will build a long block and swap engines when the new one is ready, thus minimizing the time taking up space in the shop. My personal thought for some having good luck and others bad is due to the over seas metallurgy and the quality of the materials made. With china made stuff, you are really playing Roulette unless the company has stringent standards accepting the quality of parts being made for them. So when it comes to rebuilding IH engines I am going to seek out Federal Mogul, Sealed Power, Mahle, Victor, Fel-Pro, etc. from now on.
  3. Did the serial number on the block match the serial number on the tag?
  4. SV engine? Judging by the 2bbl carb and log exhaust manifolds, I'd say it was a 345. It's one of those that the dirt hid a lot. Once I washed it, I found all kinds of surprises. Like rotted cab floor and heavy bondo in the fenders; it may be easier to find some different ones than try to repair these. We were trying to figure out what that box was too. The only thing I can think of is it is made for someone to stand on because it's just wide enough for your boot, but I'm not sure why someone would want to stand there enough to warrant building something like that. Thank you. Until I get some use out of it, I am having some real buyers remorse, because I spent more than twice as much as I thought it was worth to save it. It's like spending money you don't have to bail that deadbeat relative out of jail because you feel it's the right thing to do, but still feel dumb for doing it. And even though they promise to repay, you know you'll never get that money back. But who knows, maybe once cleaned up and back on the road I'll feel differently. Live tandem. It's a 5 speed with a funky shift pattern. 1st/reverse is all the way to the right, 2nd/3rd is all the way to the left, and 4th/5th is in the middle. Non-syncro first. I don't have a line set ticket for this, so I don't know what number it would be. We've had several old IH trucks and there seems to be no rhyme or reason for the way they shift. I was going to save this for a different post, and I may still if know one knows the answer: It has an aux 4-speed trans behind the main. I can't find any ID tags on the trans itself and the shift pattern is just 1-4. I have no idea what it is, but it looks IH. I have a brownie box in an old GMC truck and that is labeled as 1-3 and 4th labeled OD, which you can clearly tell it is. I'm hoping that this 4th is an OD too, but won't know until I get it out on the road. I have a 5.9 Cummins with an AT545 combination out of a school bus and my goal is to swap out the 345. I know these aux trans have power limits, so I'd really like to find out some specifications. I may also run into the problem of the gear ratio with a diesel engine not being able to make 55. So my question is, does anyone know anything about the aux trans in the IH trucks?
  5. Not that I doubted you, but until this point I had no reason to go looking, and all the documentation that I have only show the D and DT moniker. So I went on a quest through the barns to see what there was to see, and this is what I found: 1206 with the DT stamping 1256 with TT 1026 1456 I find it interesting all the quirky innuendos of IH's numbering system that don't always follow a uniform direction. So then the only difference between the DT and TT blocks is the addition of a second oil squirter? Were there any differences in the heads between 361/407? Did the later ones ever have hardened intake seats from the factory?
  6. Ah, that's good to know. Tomorrow I'll have to go look at the 10 and 14 to see if they say DT or TT. Any of the documentation I have have doesn't show the TT identifier, only the D and DT . The DT stood for Diesel Turbo meaning that it was turbo charged from the factory. The NA diesel engines just had the D-xxx simply telling you it was a diesel. So if this engine was destined to be in a loader or dozer it would not have had DT or TT stamped in it? Ah, that makes sense I guess. I am curious why it is stamped DT for a NA block. Those oil nozzles caps from CNH are $138.45 😳😲. YIKES!! There can't be much to them that a person couldn't make a set. I tried to take one out of my 361 to see what there was to them and the two I tried didn't want to come out, and for $140 each I wasn't going to ruin one.
  7. I was sent some pictures of an old Loadstar that was brought in to the scrap yard. He said, they won't sell them whole, but maybe you could come see if there are any usable parts. It looked like a decent truck that had been sitting in an someone's barn, just parked one day and never used again; it still has bees wings in the box. When I stopped in to look it was in the shredder processing line looking forlorn. My disease of collecting clapped out, rusty, IH stuff kicked in and I couldn't let it happen. So with money I didn't have to spend on stuff like this, I talked to the guy in the office and came up with a deal that worked out for both of us. I bought it as "parts" without a title to pacify the rules of the company and keep people from getting in trouble, but when I went to pay he handed me an envelope with a green title 😁. Put in a battery, filled the carb up with gas, and drove it up on to the trailer. I paid way to much for it, IMHO, but maybe I am out of line with my pricing. Once I got it home I power washed it to evaluate on what I had purchased. The last time it was plated was 2008 and it still has one full tank of gas which it is magically running on; it idles smooth and doesn't have any exhausts leaks. But, WOW, does it need a lot of work! I put it in the barn with the rest of the collection and when the weather gets warm I'll pull it out and start fixing things.
  8. I just bought a 407 engine core for a rebuild project and upon tear down I noticed that there was only one oil squirt nozzle per piston. I thought the factory turbo engines were suppose to have two? The 361 in my early 806 had one per cylinder like the first picture, but had provisions for two, but only one hole was drilled and a nozzle inserted. My core 361 I have in the barn doesn't have ANY oil squirt nozzles in it at all. Are the factory turbo engines suppose to have two nozzles? This block is a DT407-C4, so it was the latest and greatest and would have the most cooling possible.
  9. So an 806 gas has shorter frame rails and hood than the diesel? I know they are shorter between the 263/282 vs the 358 on the 706, but I didn't know if they did that on the 806 too. I understood that unless you had the 1026/1456 grill in the forward position, making only those two with the longer hoods, the 806/856/1206/1256 hoods were the same length.
  10. One of the vendors at RPRU a few years back had specifically designed a gold demo tractor that they could embroider on clothing. A google search didn't net me anything, can someone point me to a website or the name of the company that had that?
  11. I see. Yes, this is VERY helpful! Do you have any pictures of it completed?
  12. Yes. It's rusty in the typical 86 series cab spots, but people just painted over it πŸ˜’ . Half the stuff doesn't in the cab doesn't work and it needs a lot of work.
  13. I agree. When the previous owners got the tractor it had a loader on it that was used for plowing snow, so I assume that is why the extra weights are there. Yea, for sure. I have talked with them extensively at the last two red power roundups and they are standup guys for sure. Definitely have my business from now on. We have other hydro tractors that need rebuilds too, so as soon as I have an extra $9K I'll send them one at a time. We also have a 430 case skid steer that pump/motor is dying and I would much rather crate it up and send it out them as to give the money to CNH.
  14. I'm embarking on a cab restoration this winter and wondering if there are any special techniques to getting the cab off? I've seen pictures of people painting tractors with the controls and platform still attached to the chassis; which would explain why it's red under the hydraulic and shift towers. Looking at this, to me, looks like the platform and controls come off with the cab. Removing the fuel tank, unhooking linkages, cables, unplugging the wiring harness, steering and brake lines and it would come off as one whole unit. Is that the way to do it? Or leave the platform and controls in place? Are there some factory lift holes hidden under something that are used to lift the cab?
  15. Yup, this is the one. They are just south of the highway on Concorde rd. Have a small shop that does goat yoga or therapy goats, something like that; Nice folks, they were totally bummed to see it go. Kids had senior pictures with it and one drove it to prom this spring, so they really seemed attached it. I assured them it was going to a good home and wouldn't get parted out. Albeit nice looking in the pictures and still way better than some, someone painted over rust, rust holes, old decals, and grease. I did, as mentioned, get it to move but there is still some major internal issues, it still doesn't want to back up, so I'm only 50% there. The front end it typical 66/86 sloppy, seat is shot, hydro and hydraulic levers are floppy, so it needs a lot of work before it goes back in to service. I'm not in any hurry so I can work on it over the winter and make it nice again.
  16. Picked up my new ride yesterday 😎😎. I’ve wanted one of these since I was a kid. 5151 hrs, spent the majority of its life in PA running a snow blade and last owner did a little bit of hay and misc farm work. Drawbar and 3-point arms have almost no wear on them at all. The bad news: the hydro is out πŸ˜•πŸ˜•. So I’m hoping I bought it right to feel like I still won after I spend big money to fix it…… I have the test gauges and copied service pages (really hard to read) from Herr’s, but does anyone have the full service manual in PDF form?
  17. I've had bad luck with Reliance engine parts and I'm not going back. I've had two bad experiences and I don't want to find out if the third time is the charm. So I am looking for a supplier for top end parts to put a 361 and 407 back together: Fel-Pro, sealed power, TRW, Clevite, Mahale, etc. I was told that aside from gaskets and seals, CNH has discontinued engine internals for this series and my only option is aftermarket.
  18. I need to put a TA's in my 706 & 806 diesels, who has the best quality? Are there ones to absolutely stay away from? Does CNH make their own or bought from someone else and relabeled? I have heard good things about Lehman brothers that they make heavy duty stuff. From my research they range with the rotating assembly, gaskets, seals, and MCV kit is $1000-$1300; these prices were from last year, so I'm sure they have sky rocketed like everything else. I am asking because to many times now I have bought something and someone else was like "Oh man, I wish I had know you were going to get ____________, we got this one and it's WAY better and cheaper........
  19. Anyone know anything about these pumps? I have bought a lot of stuff from Surplus Center, but didn't know if these were china made? It kinda looks like you can simply pick what will fit your purpose, so I was just curious. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Pumps/Gear-Pumps/3-11-cu-in-Dynamic-GP-F25-51-S13-A-Hydraulic-Pump-9-12245-C.axd
  20. Ah, well that would explain why the part numbers in the book are NLA and don’t cross reference to anything. The hydraulic valve parts are the same as the tractors; there are 2 for the loader and 5 for the backhoe. Fortunately for me, you're right, I found out this is a standard SAE-2B pump. 7/8”-13 spline, 4” hub, 5-3/4” 2 bolt spacing, and threaded side 1-1/4 inlet, threaded side 1” outlet. The backhoe and loader valves have their own relief valves set at 2500psi, so a pump capable of that or more would be fine. I just don’t know the gpm. A little faster would be ok, but I don't want so much that it stalls the little BD-154 because it's more that it can handle. Someone told me that their parts book says it was suppose to be a 21 GPM Cessna, where mine is clearly a TRW, and not listed in the parts book at all ?.
  21. I am restoring a 3444 backhoe special with a 3141 backhoe mounted to it. Stripping it down to fix leaks and broken stuff I discovered that the splines are about wore through on the main pump. It's a 7/8"-13 spline shaft and two bolt flange which seems pretty common, but I cannot find how many GPM it is. I know it's big because of the backhoe, but it also runs the loader. I have IH owners, parts, trouble shooting, and service manuals for it, but no were does it give specifics for pump capacity; it says "see parts manual for replacement" I found a few that were 30GPM, but that seems high seeing that the the loader has priority and the valves are the same as the red tractors. In a few other posts I was told that running the 17GPM the tractor pump was about as much oil as you could squeeze through them. What do you thing would be the worst case scenario with a 30GPM pump running things? Would stuff move faster? Would it stall the engine when running the backhoe? Would it have problems at full throttle? CNH doesn't even list the tractor on the online parts search and the pump number in the parts manual is NLA. So I am at a loss. Any ideas?
  22. I will be there Saturday! Maybe I missed it, but are the forum members getting together for a daily picture?
  23. Would you recommend the bronze or anodized aluminum for the 282? The pump shop said it was going to be $200 to put a new bushing in.
  24. When I took it in the first time they told me that it was anodized aluminum, but it seemed pretty hard. I have learned SO much about these pumps in the past few weeks and all the major differences that they have; basically that only the aluminum casing is the same, everything else is different. This pump originally came off an 806. I put it on here 5 years ago when the torsional vibration dampener came apart on the original 706 pump. As a matter of fact when they were rebuilding this and setting it up, I learned that the internal timing advance was different between a 7 & 806. So I have to account for the total timing with the engine running so I don't get a bunch of diesel knock. I played around some older core pumps that I have and discovered that I need to have a brass bushing in this one on the 706, not the hardened steel. The bronze bushing appears to be longer and doesn't have the long taper in the front. What carries the load on the rear of the shaft?
  25. It's not as bad as it looks, sandblasting it made it look a lot worse than it actually is. Spring and plunger is Ok, but I am pretty sure that isn't where my problem is.
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