Cooter

Any ideas? I installed this SM hand clutch on my SM and everything has lined up perfectly throughout the installation process. But now the clutch petal hits the housing and is about 1-1/2” away from the platform. The clutch housing for the M bolts directly to the rear end housing directly replacing the factory brake drum cover, where the SM has a plate that bolts to the disk brake housing, then the clutch housing bolts to that. M clutch housing bolts directly in place of the brake drum housing SM has a plate that bolts to the disk brake housing then the clutch house bolts to the plate leaving a 1/2” gap between the rear end, which causes the petal to hit the housing.

I am putting an M&W hydraulic pump on my H and needed to replace the old cracked shaft seals. The numbers are easily legible on the original CR seals, so I went to motion industries and they gave me the cross referenced number of an SKF 7743. Installed them and tested the pump, then this happened. It took the seal, turned it inside out and ballooned the steel. The direct replacement CLEARLY are not the same thickness or heft as the original. The guy at motion industries said they couldn't help because this is what their system was telling them. SO, I spent hours on the web googling and researching trying to find pump replacement. The SKF website says the "direct replacement" for the CR-507039 - 7443 is only rated for 10 psi!! 😡 More looking lead me to this SKF reference by shaft size reference website and came up with a 7449 which is rated at 50 psi; based on the pictures it looked beefy like the originals, so I ordered them. I can't seem to find any seals, without a direct number, that is rated for more than 50psi on the skf website. When I got the 7449's they don't look much heftier than the thin 7443. I don't want to install them because I am afraid they will do the same thing. Does anyone have any leads on hydraulic motor/pump seals?

Early summer of 2019. It could just be a fluke and weird stuff happens. But it makes me hesitant to want to spend money on another overhaul kit from them, especially because these engines aren't cheap to rebuild.

Ok, for some clarity, do you have a 3414 or a 3444? The 3444 had the Hydra-Shuttle option that had a F and R pedal on the left side. The 3414 was, to my knowledge, was only available with a reverser; still had the clutch pedal and a single lever that shifted from forward to reverse. I have a 3444 and am also dreading the day when the hydra-shuttle fails, because I don't know where to get parts for that either. Other than that, parts are radially available because they are the same as a 414 and 444.

There are a lot of carbs out there that don't have the governor on it, I would just find a different one. I may have a couple of rebuildable non-governor ones laying around.

I googled both of those and the pictures I found do not look like the one in the truck.

Here are some pics I took of the both transmissions. Sorry so crappy, it was dark and I was crawling on my back under winter stored equipment to get the shots. Hopefully you can make heads or tails of them. Does this mean the aux trans is an overdrive unit? It looks like an IH unit. Did they use the stock gear set that would typically be in the trans directly behind the engine? I hope it's strong enough to hold up to a stock 5.9 Cummins, because that is really the end goal it to replace the tired old 345 gas. Here is the main trans. I know it's hard to see, I couldn't get the correct angle in the dark to get a good picture of it. It has a large protrusion off the drivers side. It looks like another spot for the PTO, but I'm not sure why it would stick out so far. Because of the odd shift pattern, does that mean the main trans is an OD trans too?

Aren't they just some round stock with a specific sized hole drilled in them? Is there a check valve or anything inside? I haven't examined them that close, so I am asking.

While true with many things, some have good luck and other have bad. I was one of the ones who has had bad luck with Reliance; which is why I am in search of another core engine to rebuild. My 706 diesel head gasket looked like regular gasket material with some copper rings haphazardly stuck in it and was really poor quality; so I search out a Fel-Pro head gasket for that. Had the block honed, installed reliance rings, and now has more blow by now after 1000hrs than the original engine did. The reliance kit in my 806 gave up after about 100 hrs, I think due to a broken piston. I was baling hay when it started knocking, so I immediately shut it off and towed it home. It will start and sounds normal at idle, but begins a distinctive knock at about 1500rpm, so I've only used it to move itself and wagons around the yard. I will build a long block and swap engines when the new one is ready, thus minimizing the time taking up space in the shop. My personal thought for some having good luck and others bad is due to the over seas metallurgy and the quality of the materials made. With china made stuff, you are really playing Roulette unless the company has stringent standards accepting the quality of parts being made for them. So when it comes to rebuilding IH engines I am going to seek out Federal Mogul, Sealed Power, Mahle, Victor, Fel-Pro, etc. from now on.

Did the serial number on the block match the serial number on the tag?

SV engine? Judging by the 2bbl carb and log exhaust manifolds, I'd say it was a 345. It's one of those that the dirt hid a lot. Once I washed it, I found all kinds of surprises. Like rotted cab floor and heavy bondo in the fenders; it may be easier to find some different ones than try to repair these. We were trying to figure out what that box was too. The only thing I can think of is it is made for someone to stand on because it's just wide enough for your boot, but I'm not sure why someone would want to stand there enough to warrant building something like that. Thank you. Until I get some use out of it, I am having some real buyers remorse, because I spent more than twice as much as I thought it was worth to save it. It's like spending money you don't have to bail that deadbeat relative out of jail because you feel it's the right thing to do, but still feel dumb for doing it. And even though they promise to repay, you know you'll never get that money back. But who knows, maybe once cleaned up and back on the road I'll feel differently. Live tandem. It's a 5 speed with a funky shift pattern. 1st/reverse is all the way to the right, 2nd/3rd is all the way to the left, and 4th/5th is in the middle. Non-syncro first. I don't have a line set ticket for this, so I don't know what number it would be. We've had several old IH trucks and there seems to be no rhyme or reason for the way they shift. I was going to save this for a different post, and I may still if know one knows the answer: It has an aux 4-speed trans behind the main. I can't find any ID tags on the trans itself and the shift pattern is just 1-4. I have no idea what it is, but it looks IH. I have a brownie box in an old GMC truck and that is labeled as 1-3 and 4th labeled OD, which you can clearly tell it is. I'm hoping that this 4th is an OD too, but won't know until I get it out on the road. I have a 5.9 Cummins with an AT545 combination out of a school bus and my goal is to swap out the 345. I know these aux trans have power limits, so I'd really like to find out some specifications. I may also run into the problem of the gear ratio with a diesel engine not being able to make 55. So my question is, does anyone know anything about the aux trans in the IH trucks?

Not that I doubted you, but until this point I had no reason to go looking, and all the documentation that I have only show the D and DT moniker. So I went on a quest through the barns to see what there was to see, and this is what I found: 1206 with the DT stamping 1256 with TT 1026 1456 I find it interesting all the quirky innuendos of IH's numbering system that don't always follow a uniform direction. So then the only difference between the DT and TT blocks is the addition of a second oil squirter? Were there any differences in the heads between 361/407? Did the later ones ever have hardened intake seats from the factory?

Ah, that's good to know. Tomorrow I'll have to go look at the 10 and 14 to see if they say DT or TT. Any of the documentation I have have doesn't show the TT identifier, only the D and DT . The DT stood for Diesel Turbo meaning that it was turbo charged from the factory. The NA diesel engines just had the D-xxx simply telling you it was a diesel. So if this engine was destined to be in a loader or dozer it would not have had DT or TT stamped in it? Ah, that makes sense I guess. I am curious why it is stamped DT for a NA block. Those oil nozzles caps from CNH are $138.45 😳😲. YIKES!! There can't be much to them that a person couldn't make a set. I tried to take one out of my 361 to see what there was to them and the two I tried didn't want to come out, and for $140 each I wasn't going to ruin one.

I was sent some pictures of an old Loadstar that was brought in to the scrap yard. He said, they won't sell them whole, but maybe you could come see if there are any usable parts. It looked like a decent truck that had been sitting in an someone's barn, just parked one day and never used again; it still has bees wings in the box. When I stopped in to look it was in the shredder processing line looking forlorn. My disease of collecting clapped out, rusty, IH stuff kicked in and I couldn't let it happen. So with money I didn't have to spend on stuff like this, I talked to the guy in the office and came up with a deal that worked out for both of us. I bought it as "parts" without a title to pacify the rules of the company and keep people from getting in trouble, but when I went to pay he handed me an envelope with a green title 😁. Put in a battery, filled the carb up with gas, and drove it up on to the trailer. I paid way to much for it, IMHO, but maybe I am out of line with my pricing. Once I got it home I power washed it to evaluate on what I had purchased. The last time it was plated was 2008 and it still has one full tank of gas which it is magically running on; it idles smooth and doesn't have any exhausts leaks. But, WOW, does it need a lot of work! I put it in the barn with the rest of the collection and when the weather gets warm I'll pull it out and start fixing things.

I just bought a 407 engine core for a rebuild project and upon tear down I noticed that there was only one oil squirt nozzle per piston. I thought the factory turbo engines were suppose to have two? The 361 in my early 806 had one per cylinder like the first picture, but had provisions for two, but only one hole was drilled and a nozzle inserted. My core 361 I have in the barn doesn't have ANY oil squirt nozzles in it at all. Are the factory turbo engines suppose to have two nozzles? This block is a DT407-C4, so it was the latest and greatest and would have the most cooling possible.

So an 806 gas has shorter frame rails and hood than the diesel? I know they are shorter between the 263/282 vs the 358 on the 706, but I didn't know if they did that on the 806 too. I understood that unless you had the 1026/1456 grill in the forward position, making only those two with the longer hoods, the 806/856/1206/1256 hoods were the same length.

One of the vendors at RPRU a few years back had specifically designed a gold demo tractor that they could embroider on clothing. A google search didn't net me anything, can someone point me to a website or the name of the company that had that?

I see. Yes, this is VERY helpful! Do you have any pictures of it completed?

Yes. It's rusty in the typical 86 series cab spots, but people just painted over it 😒 . Half the stuff doesn't in the cab doesn't work and it needs a lot of work.

I agree. When the previous owners got the tractor it had a loader on it that was used for plowing snow, so I assume that is why the extra weights are there. Yea, for sure. I have talked with them extensively at the last two red power roundups and they are standup guys for sure. Definitely have my business from now on. We have other hydro tractors that need rebuilds too, so as soon as I have an extra $9K I'll send them one at a time. We also have a 430 case skid steer that pump/motor is dying and I would much rather crate it up and send it out them as to give the money to CNH.

I'm embarking on a cab restoration this winter and wondering if there are any special techniques to getting the cab off? I've seen pictures of people painting tractors with the controls and platform still attached to the chassis; which would explain why it's red under the hydraulic and shift towers. Looking at this, to me, looks like the platform and controls come off with the cab. Removing the fuel tank, unhooking linkages, cables, unplugging the wiring harness, steering and brake lines and it would come off as one whole unit. Is that the way to do it? Or leave the platform and controls in place? Are there some factory lift holes hidden under something that are used to lift the cab?

Yup, this is the one. They are just south of the highway on Concorde rd. Have a small shop that does goat yoga or therapy goats, something like that; Nice folks, they were totally bummed to see it go. Kids had senior pictures with it and one drove it to prom this spring, so they really seemed attached it. I assured them it was going to a good home and wouldn't get parted out. Albeit nice looking in the pictures and still way better than some, someone painted over rust, rust holes, old decals, and grease. I did, as mentioned, get it to move but there is still some major internal issues, it still doesn't want to back up, so I'm only 50% there. The front end it typical 66/86 sloppy, seat is shot, hydro and hydraulic levers are floppy, so it needs a lot of work before it goes back in to service. I'm not in any hurry so I can work on it over the winter and make it nice again.

Picked up my new ride yesterday 😎😎. I’ve wanted one of these since I was a kid. 5151 hrs, spent the majority of its life in PA running a snow blade and last owner did a little bit of hay and misc farm work. Drawbar and 3-point arms have almost no wear on them at all. The bad news: the hydro is out 😕😕. So I’m hoping I bought it right to feel like I still won after I spend big money to fix it…… I have the test gauges and copied service pages (really hard to read) from Herr’s, but does anyone have the full service manual in PDF form?

I've had bad luck with Reliance engine parts and I'm not going back. I've had two bad experiences and I don't want to find out if the third time is the charm. So I am looking for a supplier for top end parts to put a 361 and 407 back together: Fel-Pro, sealed power, TRW, Clevite, Mahale, etc. I was told that aside from gaskets and seals, CNH has discontinued engine internals for this series and my only option is aftermarket.

I need to put a TA's in my 706 & 806 diesels, who has the best quality? Are there ones to absolutely stay away from? Does CNH make their own or bought from someone else and relabeled? I have heard good things about Lehman brothers that they make heavy duty stuff. From my research they range with the rotating assembly, gaskets, seals, and MCV kit is $1000-$1300; these prices were from last year, so I'm sure they have sky rocketed like everything else. I am asking because to many times now I have bought something and someone else was like "Oh man, I wish I had know you were going to get ____________, we got this one and it's WAY better and cheaper........