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About Cooter

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/27/1978

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  • Location
    Charlotte, MI
  • Interests
    IH tractors and shows,
    Hot air ballooning,
    Farming, and

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  1. I have a 6R-900 with a 1000 pto pump that I thought about planting with a 656 hydro. I know they made a 540 pump for these planters, but apparently they aren't very common because I can't readily find one. I've seen pictures and they were a big behemoth looking thing hanging off the back of the tractor - is that really the best IH could come up with?? 🙄🙄 If the planter only requires only 8gpm, how come I couldn't run it off the tractor hydraulics? My only concern would be running through the remote valve would be one would have priority, so lifting the planter on the head land would either A: not happen or B: have to shut the planter off to rise it. If I ran the planter off the second remote valve, does the oil returning from the first valve (using for raising the planter) get dumped directly into the belly or get routed through the second valve (hoping to keep the fan spinning enough to hold the seeds in the drum) and then out? I'm guessing if there was a way to to do this without a PTO pump, someone would have done it already......
  2. My pivot ball for the hitch on my MacDon has wore through the top holder. I can't find any kind of repair pieces to weld on top to hold the ball in place, all I can find are replacement weld on units like you would find at TSC. Any ideas? I don't know how much it really pivots side-to-side, I thought about doing away with the ball, welding a plate with a 1" whole over the larger ball hole and putting a draw pin through if I can't find a replacement.
  3. I have heard rumblings about this from multiple people because of the soggy spring we are having. I am leery because it sounds like a to-good-to-be-true kind of deal; you get paid to not do nothing. I feel like there is some kind of catch that I am missing, because there is no free lunch. If you take the prevent plant are you going to be punished for years to come with extra high premiums or take a major hit on your yield average? I feel like this is getting a "0" on a final exam in school, despite how well you have done in the past, you're final grade is going to take a severe beating. Is the price per acre payment based on your average yield or projected price per bushel? If there is a major prevent plant over multiple states and the price of corn rockets up, will your price per acre increase or is it a fixed rate take it or leave it deal? I have heard the penalties for trying to slip one under the radar are steep! Like banishment from crop insurance and any FSA programs for 10 years, so maybe this prevent plant has some legitimacy to it. I thought it would be nice to use this opportunity to follow some ground, pick rocks, plant a cover to give some tilth back to the soil, and plow in down in the fall, but I'm not sure what to do......
  4. I recently bought a 504 diesel and the guy had a 340 diesel parts tractor that he made part of the deal. I really didn't think anything about it until someone told me that they are pretty rare and made less than 100 340 Diesels, is that true? I never really paid attention to those because we don't have any of that series in the collection, I never thought many 340's were made, period, but tractor data says they made over 12,000 of them. The engine is stuck, it's missing some sheet metal pieces, missing the radiator, and needs a total restoration, BUT it didn't end up in shredder, so who knows. I can't find out much about the engine, but to me it looks like a 282 with two cylinders missing. Are the engines internally the same as the 282? I know the obvious things, crank, cam, head, and block, but what about the rest, pistons, rods, bearings, injectors, valves, rockers, etc. This restoration is not high on the list, but it's kinda cute and I would think make a good hay raking tractor.
  5. They are always so far away......
  6. Has anyone bought anything in Canada? Is there some kind of Duty or do you pay state sales tax when you bring it back over to the US? If you are a farm and tax exempt with an EIN#, does that get you out of any Duty's? I'm not sure how it works, but would like to know the details before I commit to buy. Having your equipment confiscated by the customs agents doesn't sound like much fun....
  7. We looked at buying a 4568 a few years ago, had 42XX hours on it. It needed some love, but the price was right. I am red to the core and never pass up an opportunity to buy one, but passed just because of the DV800. I have never read a post ever had anything positive to say about them, which is sad. And it's not one specific thing either, it's the whole engine; bearings, valve train, gaskets, O-rings, all of it. The stories seem end with some catastrophic failure or ridiculously expensive rebuild. If you and dad love the tractor, demote it light duty and baby it along. We looked for some 91, 92, & 9350's which are 300hp and they were in the mid-upper $30's. I know 30k is 30k, but we didn't think that was such a bad price.
  8. They are the same, at least my two were. My 706 gas and 806 diesel, both early serial numbers, both had 13/49 ring and pinions, same differential, and 2-1/2" wide bull gears. I had always heard the 706 was suppose to be lighter, but when I opened them up I was surprised to find they were the same. BUT an 806 is 2" taller and 3" longer. The grill shell and legs of the pedestal are taller, which means all the shift linkages are longer, to account for the taller engine and larger fuel tank. And the frame rails are longer. 806 Diesel 706 Gas 706 Gas bull gears
  9. My new addition, since I had everything all apart, was M&W hydraulics. I wasn't sure where exactly sure how it went on, so I fabricated my own set up. Good or bad, I will soon find out if this was a smart idea or not. I wanted to keep the belly pump because I have a cultivator hydraulic valve I want to put on in the future, and that needs the belly pump to work correctly. What has bothered me in these older hydraulic systems was the fact that there wasn't any type of filtration of any kind. No matter how clean you try and keep the fittings, inevitably there is small pieces of hay or dirt that gets in the system, so I aimed to fix it. I had to do some mocking up to figure out where I needed the hole to be so it wouldn't be in line with the large driven gear in the housing. I was just going to leave the pipe open, but I was afraid of it cavitating and turbulent oil, so I added the plate over the pickup to pull oil from the 4 sides. The gear misses it and I'm hoping it will work as planned. I sealed everything up really well, so I'm not worried about it leaking 🙏🙏 I did my best to make this modification as unobtrusive as possible, so I hugged the housings as close as I could and tucked the filter in behind the pump. You can still see it's there, but it looks ok, I think. Maybe if I painted it wouldn't stick out so bad. Plus, the pump protects it some. My thought was to try and tuck it under the frame rail just before the suction line snakes past the engine oil filter, but since I had the M&W line, my filter addition got put here. Since I was now pulling oil out of the belly, I needed to figure out how to put it back. I toyed with several ideas and finally came up with using the belt pulley housing as part of my return. As I opened it up to see if it was possible, what did I find...........SHOCKER...........more bad bearings. In retrospect, I knew the end bearing was bad because when I would belt it up at the steam show it growled horribly and would sling oil, so I knew replacement was in the works. I haven't' figured out how much oil I am going to need to run in the rear to make the hydraulics work. That's a few steps down the list.
  10. So here is where I am at: Lots of new bearings and a few used. I had a set of good used outside axle bearings and a used the differential bearings off my parts tractor on the inner axle; which had more balls that the ones that failed. Lots and lots of cleaning to get all the debris out of the transmission and axle housings. There was some fabricating and problem solving while installing the M&W 9-speed, but it is 80% back together. I did set the ring and pinion for final back lash of 0.007 with the shims I had; I figured that with new bearings it would wear in some and get me back to around 0.010 over time. Whether that was the right decision or not, that is the logic I used. It took over an hour of swapping the shims side to side to find some correlation of shim thickness vs backlash change to get a handle on where I would finally end up. Hopefully it doesn't howl. There are a lot of new gears shaking hands now and they need to get along.
  11. I was trying to do some kind of bearing identification to figure out how they came up with the replacements. Some of the bearings I got had fewer, yet larger, balls than what was in there originally. Were they superseded because they were cheaper? I had to do some digging to come up with direct replacement number of balls per bearing. I would have thought that the more smaller balls would make the bearing stronger? It seems to me that the larger balls being further apart would put more stress on the cage...... I didn't have any luck looking up bearings on Rock Auto 😕, which is a bummer because I order lots of stuff from them. I even tried using the new SKF numbers on the bearings from CNH, but still didn't come up with anything. I forgot to look on ebay for bearings too. SO, I was at the mercy of Mother Fiat to provide me a supply of new rollers 🤕 BUT, the same bearings were cheaper through the dealer than they were at Motion Industries, so I guess that was a win.
  12. My shifter on my H is really sloppy so I bought one of the kits from Steiner, but I guess I'm not sure what the round piece does? The two holes in the platform are really sloppy and what was left of the pin is tapered to a point on each end, so I'm pretty sure this kit isn't going to fix it without some machining. I may end up taking the kit back and fabricating my own. Anyone used one of these? They sell another kit for $40 that is threaded on one end, but I'm not sure if that would fix the sloppiness either. In the pictures, what is the top piece of round stock for? I didn't see anything that looked like that when I took the shifter out.
  13. I am looking for a replacement tach for a 350 gas. I don't have one to rebuild, so I am going aftermarket. There is a HUGE difference in price from different companies, from $30 to $150 for new ones. Despite who has them for sale, they all look relatively the same; faces and needles look the same, some are painted ring others are chrome. I can't imagine that there is that much of a demand that several companies are making them and offer them at different quality levels. So what is the difference between a $30 and $150 aftermarket tach, other than price?
  14. I have a #24 and wondered the same thing! We have grown several acres of sweet corn in the past and picking it by hand gets old, real fast. I found this picture online and thought, that's a #24 picking sweet corn 🤯🤯🤯🤯 All of the literature I've seen regarding pickers, none of them makes any reference to picking sweet corn, so I didn't know what kind of job it would do. I have a parts book for the #24 and, if I recall correctly (been a few years since I looked at it) it doesn't show any different part numbers for the snapper rolls. We have a Uni-System and I was considering a Byron/Pixall sweet corn picker, but at that point our sweet corn operation lost steam. I never really examined the Byron, so I'm not sure what they look like on the inside, my concern with the #24 is if it would damage the bottoms of the soft ear as it pulled it off a hearty green stalk.
  15. Really? I was just on there looking and nothing came up when I typed in the bearing numbers. Is there a specific place I should be looking? I know the ST-227-B that carries the differential and inner axle superseded to a different part number through CNH and spit out an SKF bearing, so maybe I will have to put those numbers in and see what comes out.
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