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Cooter

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About Cooter

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/27/1978

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    Kraazycooter
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    mrmopar22@hotmail.com
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    http://www.facebook.com/jeremy.droscha
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    Male
  • Location
    Charlotte, MI
  • Interests
    God,
    IH tractors and shows,
    Hot air ballooning,
    Farming, and
    Family.

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  1. Would you recommend the bronze or anodized aluminum for the 282? The pump shop said it was going to be $200 to put a new bushing in.
  2. When I took it in the first time they told me that it was anodized aluminum, but it seemed pretty hard. I have learned SO much about these pumps in the past few weeks and all the major differences that they have; basically that only the aluminum casing is the same, everything else is different. This pump originally came off an 806. I put it on here 5 years ago when the torsional vibration dampener came apart on the original 706 pump. As a matter of fact when they were rebuilding this and setting it up, I learned that the internal timing advance was different between a 7 & 806. So I have to account for the total timing with the engine running so I don't get a bunch of diesel knock. I played around some older core pumps that I have and discovered that I need to have a brass bushing in this one on the 706, not the hardened steel. The bronze bushing appears to be longer and doesn't have the long taper in the front. What carries the load on the rear of the shaft?
  3. It's not as bad as it looks, sandblasting it made it look a lot worse than it actually is. Spring and plunger is Ok, but I am pretty sure that isn't where my problem is.
  4. I'm starting assembly, but I wanted to double check a few things with you all before I finished. Bushing is flush with the back cover. How much of a gap is there suppose to be? Even more important is, does this movement seem excessive? The pump shop said that the bushing and shaft were tight, but this seems like A LOT being that I replaced the idler shaft bushing and it wasn't really even that wore. I can see this causing excessive gear wear. The old gear has been rubbing on the front cover. I don't know if it did that whilst it was chewing itself apart or during normal operation....
  5. I guess the reason that I keep circling the wagons with this is because I have not found a cause of the failure, which is really bothersome. And because no one has chimed in saying that this a relatively common problem, then I assume that it isn't. Which means that either that this was a weird fluke and may not ever happen again OR I haven't come across the problem yet; so either one of these two can cause it to happen again.
  6. So I got my pump back from the shop yesterday. It cost me $75 for them to put it on the calibration stand to re-check it and not find anything wrong. They guy who works on them has been doing it for 42 years and seemingly knows these pumps backwards and forwards, so I trust what he says. He said it wasn’t out of spec at all and ran out fine without any noises. He kept saying how lucky I was because it doesn’t take much deflection to bind the rotor into the cam ring and seize the pump. He said the stresses of the gear teeth climbing each other is shocking to him that it didn’t bind enough to cause the drive shaft to snap; he just kept saying how lucky I was that it didn't damage the pump internally. He also said the drive shaft was straight and serviceable. They rechecked the drive bushing protrusion and that was in spec, so it's got a clean bill of health. Whether there was actually anything wrong internally or not, I will never know, but I am inclined to believe him. SO, that leads me back to square one: What caused it? This is the bushing in the idler gear and you can still see the machining in the bearing and it is tight. I was going to put a dial indicator on it when I put it back together to check backlash, but I don't see this as the failure. This is the pump drive gear. There aren't any abnormal wear patterns, chipped, or broken teeth. There is some witness marks where it saw some abuse chewing the teeth off pump gear. Probably the reason why is because this is machined steel where the pump gear was cast. Do you think it is reusable? I have a spare idler gear, although it isn't in the greatest shape. There is some pitting on the face of the teeth, which may not really matter. I found this interesting upon closer examination. There is an odd wear pattern on the pump drive gear where the defacing of the teeth moves to the middle of the tooth where as others are the full width. Here are my choices of pump drive gears, one with and one without additional timing adjustment. Is that additional timing adjustment advantageous? Or better yet, why was it necessary? Specific application?
  7. I have a 706 and an 806 both have bad torque amplifiers now. Problem #1, Hard use/abuse: The 806 is the most recent and untimely death. This has always had a strong TA and never given any issues. It was replaced by the original owner in 94-95 at the dealer and has never really had any hours put on it after that; when I put seals in pto drive shaft his initials and date was written in paint marker. It sat for 10 years before I bought it and it only has 4500 hours on the meter now and he told me when I bought it that he had the “heavy TA” put in not that long ago. So…..my wife and son were helping me fit ground this past week with the field cultivator. They know that when they use the TA to make swift full strokes with the lever so that there isn’t any slippage. Well, I’m not exactly sure what happened while they were at the helm, but the next day when I got on it to finish up the field……. I pulled back on the TA at the headlands and it chattered/shuddered, but grabbed on the low side and kept going. However, on the next hill I pulled back the lever and we came to a stop. Now, I’m no stranger to weak TA’s and know that sometimes if you push in on the clutch and give it a second or two stuff will stop spinning and grab; but not this time. Now maybe it was purely coincidental and the 25 year old TA was close to death when we started that day OR it got abused somehow; but it would be pure speculation at this point, because no one is fessing up to any foul play. With no load on the tractor it will move under its own power on the low side, but touching the brakes will bring it to a stop. Problem #2, the 3 count slugger: The 706 is one of our primary haying tractors because the 301 diesel uses hardly any fuel and is pretty nimble. I don’t know the history of this tractor at all. I rescued it from a fence row 706 fence row project and replaced the tired 263 gas with a 301 diesel from a combine. Anyway, this TA works with a 3 count when engaging hydraulically on the high side. But below 1500 RPM regardless of what you are doing, whether cruising around the field moving bales or plowing at full throttle, if you lug it to 1500 rpm, it will catch. Every. Single. Time. If you are slowing down, or going down a hill, and pull back on the TA lever, you can give it a 3 count and the holding clutch will engage and hold. When baling in direct TA and the bale is ready, I push on the clutch to tie the bale and pull the TA lever to the low side. As the bale it tying the tractor will lurch slightly, letting me know the low side is locked and ready to go. If you stupidly pull the lever back above 1500 rpm, you’re coming to a full stop – every time. When moving the lever to the direct side and trying to start moving again, the engine will labor momentarily, then a loud “pop” comes from the transmission and away you go; it only does it when you have stupidly pulled the ta lever above 1500 back thinking it will catch and come to a stop. Now, I know you’re thinking, “this thing is about to grind itself into pieces” and maybe you're right, but it has been doing this for the past 5 years and is consistent in what it does. So much so that I have instructed people how to run it this way. And I thought for SURE it would have grenaded itself by this point, but it just keeps on going. I have yet to have a single TA apart so I can’t tell you what is going on during these times, but it probably isn’t by design. I realize I am going to have to bite the bullet and fork over $1000 each for working TA’s. The 706 works, kinda; I mean it’s usable to a certain extent. But the 806 is a direct drive only tractor now, so this one probably needs it first. I always thought that TA's just died all at once like the 806 did, not cling to life and giving hope of healing itself like the 706 does. I was reflecting on the amount of money and time I have to spend now to fix the 806 and pondered if it would have just been quicker to have fit the field myself when I decided to write this.......... but I guess I'll never know.
  8. Hhmmmm, this tube doesn't have a bracket 🤔. Nor does it appear to have ever had one
  9. Oh wow, it sure is.........for a mere $383.80 🥺. So at that price I have some room to explore some other options, but will certainly circle back to this should I get in a pinch.........
  10. This pump has he anodized aluminum bushing in it and felt tight with the shaft inserted, no excessive play at all.
  11. I'll do a closer inspection on the balancer to make sure the marks are still lined up, but why would the harmonics target JUST the pump drive gear? I took the pump back to the shop today along with the broken gear and shaft. He looked perplexed and spun the pump around with the broken gear and said it didn't sound or feel abnormal. They are going to put it back on the calibration stand and run it; I'm hoping they find something - not that they would tell me 😒. I don't think they are dishonest, but would they say something, I donno. Time will tell.
  12. What makes it align square in the tube and how do you know?
  13. I know there are a few posts regarding this, but I am really struggling with mine. It had the orange O-rings put in when I reassembled the engine and they started leaking , so I put black rtv in the seals, reassembled, and it stopped for a while. Now it started leaking again. It leaks REALLY REALLY bad when it's cold and you first start it up and once it's warm it will stop for the most part, but oil gets expensive when it uses more than a gallon in an afternoon. Anything else to try? A thicker O-ring? Someone told me they make a square ring? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  14. The water pump is growly on the 706 and since I have it all tore apart, now is the time to replace it. Mother Fiat wants $218.92 for a reman water pump, which seems outrageous. So I cruised the net looking for aftermarket and found pumps from $80 ebay specials to $180 aftermarket supplier. I'm sure at this point they are all made in china anyway, including CNH, so it's a matter of supporting small business. As of late, I have had bad luck with CNH having some over priced foreign parts. If I am going to buy foreign stuff there are a lot of other aftermarket people who charge way less and I can support a local business too. Is there someone who has has a good source for good quality water pumps? This spends a lot of time in the hay field during the summer, so the higher quality the better; anyone I should stay away from?
  15. Mine appears to be steel, now brass. Is that an issue?
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