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Cooter

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About Cooter

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/27/1978

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    Kraazycooter
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    mrmopar22@hotmail.com
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    http://www.facebook.com/jeremy.droscha
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlotte, MI
  • Interests
    God
    IH tractors and shows
    Hot air ballooning
    Farming
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  1. Has anyone bought anything in Canada? Is there some kind of Duty or do you pay state sales tax when you bring it back over to the US? If you are a farm and tax exempt with an EIN#, does that get you out of any Duty's? I'm not sure how it works, but would like to know the details before I commit to buy. Having your equipment confiscated by the customs agents doesn't sound like much fun....
  2. We looked at buying a 4568 a few years ago, had 42XX hours on it. It needed some love, but the price was right. I am red to the core and never pass up an opportunity to buy one, but passed just because of the DV800. I have never read a post ever had anything positive to say about them, which is sad. And it's not one specific thing either, it's the whole engine; bearings, valve train, gaskets, O-rings, all of it. The stories seem end with some catastrophic failure or ridiculously expensive rebuild. If you and dad love the tractor, demote it light duty and baby it along. We looked for some 91, 92, & 9350's which are 300hp and they were in the mid-upper $30's. I know 30k is 30k, but we didn't think that was such a bad price.
  3. They are the same, at least my two were. My 706 gas and 806 diesel, both early serial numbers, both had 13/49 ring and pinions, same differential, and 2-1/2" wide bull gears. I had always heard the 706 was suppose to be lighter, but when I opened them up I was surprised to find they were the same. BUT an 806 is 2" taller and 3" longer. The grill shell and legs of the pedestal are taller, which means all the shift linkages are longer, to account for the taller engine and larger fuel tank. And the frame rails are longer. 806 Diesel 706 Gas 706 Gas bull gears
  4. My new addition, since I had everything all apart, was M&W hydraulics. I wasn't sure where exactly sure how it went on, so I fabricated my own set up. Good or bad, I will soon find out if this was a smart idea or not. I wanted to keep the belly pump because I have a cultivator hydraulic valve I want to put on in the future, and that needs the belly pump to work correctly. What has bothered me in these older hydraulic systems was the fact that there wasn't any type of filtration of any kind. No matter how clean you try and keep the fittings, inevitably there is small pieces of hay or dirt that gets in the system, so I aimed to fix it. I had to do some mocking up to figure out where I needed the hole to be so it wouldn't be in line with the large driven gear in the housing. I was just going to leave the pipe open, but I was afraid of it cavitating and turbulent oil, so I added the plate over the pickup to pull oil from the 4 sides. The gear misses it and I'm hoping it will work as planned. I sealed everything up really well, so I'm not worried about it leaking 🙏🙏 I did my best to make this modification as unobtrusive as possible, so I hugged the housings as close as I could and tucked the filter in behind the pump. You can still see it's there, but it looks ok, I think. Maybe if I painted it wouldn't stick out so bad. Plus, the pump protects it some. My thought was to try and tuck it under the frame rail just before the suction line snakes past the engine oil filter, but since I had the M&W line, my filter addition got put here. Since I was now pulling oil out of the belly, I needed to figure out how to put it back. I toyed with several ideas and finally came up with using the belt pulley housing as part of my return. As I opened it up to see if it was possible, what did I find...........SHOCKER...........more bad bearings. In retrospect, I knew the end bearing was bad because when I would belt it up at the steam show it growled horribly and would sling oil, so I knew replacement was in the works. I haven't' figured out how much oil I am going to need to run in the rear to make the hydraulics work. That's a few steps down the list.
  5. So here is where I am at: Lots of new bearings and a few used. I had a set of good used outside axle bearings and a used the differential bearings off my parts tractor on the inner axle; which had more balls that the ones that failed. Lots and lots of cleaning to get all the debris out of the transmission and axle housings. There was some fabricating and problem solving while installing the M&W 9-speed, but it is 80% back together. I did set the ring and pinion for final back lash of 0.007 with the shims I had; I figured that with new bearings it would wear in some and get me back to around 0.010 over time. Whether that was the right decision or not, that is the logic I used. It took over an hour of swapping the shims side to side to find some correlation of shim thickness vs backlash change to get a handle on where I would finally end up. Hopefully it doesn't howl. There are a lot of new gears shaking hands now and they need to get along.
  6. I was trying to do some kind of bearing identification to figure out how they came up with the replacements. Some of the bearings I got had fewer, yet larger, balls than what was in there originally. Were they superseded because they were cheaper? I had to do some digging to come up with direct replacement number of balls per bearing. I would have thought that the more smaller balls would make the bearing stronger? It seems to me that the larger balls being further apart would put more stress on the cage...... I didn't have any luck looking up bearings on Rock Auto 😕, which is a bummer because I order lots of stuff from them. I even tried using the new SKF numbers on the bearings from CNH, but still didn't come up with anything. I forgot to look on ebay for bearings too. SO, I was at the mercy of Mother Fiat to provide me a supply of new rollers 🤕 BUT, the same bearings were cheaper through the dealer than they were at Motion Industries, so I guess that was a win.
  7. My shifter on my H is really sloppy so I bought one of the kits from Steiner, but I guess I'm not sure what the round piece does? The two holes in the platform are really sloppy and what was left of the pin is tapered to a point on each end, so I'm pretty sure this kit isn't going to fix it without some machining. I may end up taking the kit back and fabricating my own. Anyone used one of these? They sell another kit for $40 that is threaded on one end, but I'm not sure if that would fix the sloppiness either. In the pictures, what is the top piece of round stock for? I didn't see anything that looked like that when I took the shifter out.
  8. I am looking for a replacement tach for a 350 gas. I don't have one to rebuild, so I am going aftermarket. There is a HUGE difference in price from different companies, from $30 to $150 for new ones. Despite who has them for sale, they all look relatively the same; faces and needles look the same, some are painted ring others are chrome. I can't imagine that there is that much of a demand that several companies are making them and offer them at different quality levels. So what is the difference between a $30 and $150 aftermarket tach, other than price?
  9. I have a #24 and wondered the same thing! We have grown several acres of sweet corn in the past and picking it by hand gets old, real fast. I found this picture online and thought, that's a #24 picking sweet corn 🤯🤯🤯🤯 All of the literature I've seen regarding pickers, none of them makes any reference to picking sweet corn, so I didn't know what kind of job it would do. I have a parts book for the #24 and, if I recall correctly (been a few years since I looked at it) it doesn't show any different part numbers for the snapper rolls. We have a Uni-System and I was considering a Byron/Pixall sweet corn picker, but at that point our sweet corn operation lost steam. I never really examined the Byron, so I'm not sure what they look like on the inside, my concern with the #24 is if it would damage the bottoms of the soft ear as it pulled it off a hearty green stalk.
  10. Really? I was just on there looking and nothing came up when I typed in the bearing numbers. Is there a specific place I should be looking? I know the ST-227-B that carries the differential and inner axle superseded to a different part number through CNH and spit out an SKF bearing, so maybe I will have to put those numbers in and see what comes out.
  11. Cool, thank you! I've had hit or miss luck with NAPA, you just have to be careful. I have bought various bearings through them, opened the box, and they were china bearings. So they may have been cheaper than the dealer and Motion Industries, but they were cheaper bearings to begin with. CNH has gotten better too, they are back to using USA brand bearings, mainly SKF and Bower, so I feel more confident in ordering through them.
  12. I am in the process of doing this at the moment with my H, so I will get you all the bearing part numbers. From there they can cross-reference either at your dealer or bearing shop
  13. Did anyone find a service manual that tells about setting the ring and pinion?
  14. I think so. I know they sell the Turkish and USA one. He was telling me about the cheap china one and how they are sold as a "one pump fits all" even though they don't.
  15. Typical for me, what started as one project has escalated into a major money absorbing rebuild 😕 Due to wore input bearings and a failed main shaft pilot bearing, it broke 4th gear. Thankfully, I've had a M&W 9-speed waiting to go in for years, but never had a NEED to install it, until now. When pulling it apart I noticed that the ring gear back lash was excessive, to put it lightly, which explains the howling noise in 5th; sadly, it's worn out too. SO, that means pulling it down to an empty housing, taking stock in what I had, and starting over 😔 ALL the bearings are badly worn and the axle bearings are failing completely. I have never seen any wore that bad that weren't coming apart, but you can wiggle the inner race around and rattle the balls by shaking the bearings in your hand. Almost all of them have the IHC stamped in them, so I guess I can't complain, after 70 years of use I think we got our money's worth out of them 😁 The floating pieces ruined one bull pinion and bull gear. But THANKFULLY it didn't hurt the M&W clutch bull pinion, that would have been really hard to find replacement parts for. I took a walk through the parts room and found a good ring & pinion, bull pinion, and bull gear, so I have all my replacement pieces. Sadly, it needs all new bearings and at roughly $100 each this is turning into an expensive endeavor for a 30hp tractor....... I know there is a service specification, so how much wear can ball bearings have and still be used? I can't find my service manual when I need it, but my main question is setting the ring and pinion. If I remember correctly, you set the pinion depth by aligning the edge of the pinion gear flush with the ring gear, but I can't remember it's aligned with the inner differential side or the outter side? Then you set the back lash by changing the shims from side to side until you get ~0.006" - 0.012" on the dial indicator. Is that correct?
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