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Everything posted by NCIH1466

  1. We use the T/A when roading but NEVER for slowing down --- that's what the throttle and brakes are for. We drop the T/A to low when at stop signs and when we get rolling again, at about 1/4 throttle (ish) we engage the T/A to direct and then throttle up. By doing so we usually (unless the load is like a full silage wagon) can remain in high 4th gear and don't have to shift. If having to use the T/A while roading, going from direct to low I wouldn't see a need to reduce throttle for in all likelihood, the engine RPMs have already dropped but once over the load (let's say onto flat road, I would
  2. Guessing it was my lucky day as the piece that was broken off the grill was found between the grill and the radiator. If I followed the posts correctly, sounds like the original metal grills with the tabs were aluminum. So I may try my hand at aluminum mig welding with argon gas or bring it to a machine shop I use to see if they can work their magic. This was I can keep the restoration as close to original as possible. Thanks for the posts.
  3. Restoring my 1466 and in need of a new front grill. Plenty available online in plastic or steel but they don't seem to match what is currently on the tractor. The one I have is definitely metal of some sort (I assure you) but it has the spring tab to hold it in. The new ones out there are either plastic with the spring or they are metal with bolts holding it in. I'd like to get metal with the spring. Thoughts?
  4. Timing on this thread is good (for me) and sorry if I'm somewhat hijacking it. Recently took the head from my 1466 to get rebuilt and while there, had them remove many of the broken bolts/studs from the exhaust manifold. Which holes get studs vs bolts (like I said, many were busted off)? Thanks!
  5. I found this prior thread on the topic to be of help to me: https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/110634-56-and-66-series-sloppy-shifter-rebuild/
  6. Glad I asked! I'll have the machine shop I use for head work, machining. etc handle for me. Thanks for the replies.
  7. I'm restoring a 1466 and as part of that project, doing a rebuild on the motor. Was going to order connecting rod bushings and came across some marked honable and others market borable and some not marked at all. According to Reliance: "Connecting rod bushings will distort slightly when pressed into the small end bore of the connecting rod. Therefore, connecting rod bushings must be sized after being pressed into the rod by using one of two methods depending on the shop equipment available. The difference between honable and borable connecting rod bushings is the size of the inside diameter. B
  8. Rebuilding the DT436 on my 1466. Head is at the machine shop getting done to it whatever they feel needs to be done to make it 100% reliable. Thoughts on the head bolts.....can I use my old ones or new ones needed? They're like $10 a piece which I think equates to almost $260 in bolts --- OUCH! Haven't measured the old ones but from outward appearance, they look fine. Thoughts?
  9. Would love to get their contact name and info. I would be willing to easily pay that and more for quality materials and stitching.
  10. Here is a listing for one that I inquired on back in November: https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-attachment/for-sale/176081705/1972-international-1066cab
  11. WOW....25HP compressors. And I thought my 5HP on the Quincy was powerful! Appreciate all the posts. Going to run a higher PSI in the system then use a regulator/ at the quick connects for reducing the PSI when needed or to at least capture the moisture further down stream. So excited about this (sorry it doesn't take much). It's going to be so much easier now to fill up the tires that require 110 PSI.
  12. Thanks for the response and the idea. I could buy 1 or 2 regulators and connect them as and where needed to reduce the PSI. Appreciate it!
  13. Finally got my 2 stage air compressor hooked up and plumbed into the barn and shop. Being used to an old, loud, oil-less single stage compressor, I'm excited to have higher PSI available.That said, what do you all (or shops) run for PSI in your/their systems? I have filter/regulator at the compressor. Was thinking perhaps 140?
  14. Ditto here on the deer oil. Helps to keep my cost of operations down by running the same oil in all and not having to worry about cross contamination with implements. No problems here for the years I've been doing it.
  15. This was awesome! Prompted me to go check my 1466 and yep....the plug was right there staring at me all these year. Checked my IH manual and there is no mention that I can find. THIS is why forums like this are priceless over manuals. Thank you for sharing Farmall Doctor!
  16. I like a good manual and I use manuals all the time. However, I will say that forums like this one are treasure chests of real life experiences by those who have a passion for their equipment, work on them for a living, use them for a living or combination thereof. Like I said, I like a good manual but a forum like this can help take some engineering article in a service manual and turn it into layman's talk. Forums like this can help streamline and simplify what a manual states for often times manuals are written in engineering talk and they surely don't give you suggestions like watch out fo
  17. A couple years back I purchased a case of 12 short cans for $24 (good deal). Online auction (place that starts with "e") is selling JD short can for $4 each. Not sure if that's a good deal or not. I use is sparingly but sometimes a little help goes a long way in super cold weather and when the power is off (and hence no block heater available).
  18. Glad I posted this thread. Great feedback and info from you all especially @Sparky. Thank you!
  19. I understand that there is an update to the parking lock for a 1466. While I have mine torn apart for a restoration, figured I'd get this done too since I have the older style with the rods, turn buckle, etc and the rods are bent. Cannot seem to find a kit number on the CaseIH site. Much appreciate if anyone has that info handy and even where I can get one w/o going thru CaseIH directly.
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