Jump to content

NCIH1466

Members
  • Posts

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About NCIH1466

  • Birthday October 16

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gibsonville, NC

Recent Profile Visitors

656 profile views

NCIH1466's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)

16

Reputation

  1. Been trying to get some pricing on a new genuine (not a knockoff) 3LM466 turbo. But it appears to be out of stock everywhere. Almost like it's discontinued. Any other good options for a stock 1466? Machine has an AiResearch on it now....which I've been pleased with until it wore out. Maybe I could find a Garrett equivalent to the 3LM466.
  2. Awesome! Thanks for confirming @MinnesotaFarmall!
  3. I am installing A/C on my 1466. The "new" cab has the evaporator and lines (albeit they will need to be cleaned/replaced) and so I need to purchase the compressor and related parts. One of the things I've been hunting for is the A/C compressor mount and I found this one for sale. Is this the correct looking one for the 1466?
  4. I love my 1466. Work horse of a tractor. And I find it easy to work on. Currently she's in the shop for a total restoration top to bottom front to back. When done, she'll be showroom new! I owe her that TLC after all these hard years of labor.....
  5. We use the T/A when roading but NEVER for slowing down --- that's what the throttle and brakes are for. We drop the T/A to low when at stop signs and when we get rolling again, at about 1/4 throttle (ish) we engage the T/A to direct and then throttle up. By doing so we usually (unless the load is like a full silage wagon) can remain in high 4th gear and don't have to shift. If having to use the T/A while roading, going from direct to low I wouldn't see a need to reduce throttle for in all likelihood, the engine RPMs have already dropped but once over the load (let's say onto flat road, I would probably decrease throttle, go to direct and then throttle back up as the jerk on dry pavement would be tough.
  6. Guessing it was my lucky day as the piece that was broken off the grill was found between the grill and the radiator. If I followed the posts correctly, sounds like the original metal grills with the tabs were aluminum. So I may try my hand at aluminum mig welding with argon gas or bring it to a machine shop I use to see if they can work their magic. This was I can keep the restoration as close to original as possible. Thanks for the posts.
  7. Restoring my 1466 and in need of a new front grill. Plenty available online in plastic or steel but they don't seem to match what is currently on the tractor. The one I have is definitely metal of some sort (I assure you) but it has the spring tab to hold it in. The new ones out there are either plastic with the spring or they are metal with bolts holding it in. I'd like to get metal with the spring. Thoughts?
  8. Timing on this thread is good (for me) and sorry if I'm somewhat hijacking it. Recently took the head from my 1466 to get rebuilt and while there, had them remove many of the broken bolts/studs from the exhaust manifold. Which holes get studs vs bolts (like I said, many were busted off)? Thanks!
  9. I found this prior thread on the topic to be of help to me: https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/110634-56-and-66-series-sloppy-shifter-rebuild/
  10. Glad I asked! I'll have the machine shop I use for head work, machining. etc handle for me. Thanks for the replies.
  11. I'm restoring a 1466 and as part of that project, doing a rebuild on the motor. Was going to order connecting rod bushings and came across some marked honable and others market borable and some not marked at all. According to Reliance: "Connecting rod bushings will distort slightly when pressed into the small end bore of the connecting rod. Therefore, connecting rod bushings must be sized after being pressed into the rod by using one of two methods depending on the shop equipment available. The difference between honable and borable connecting rod bushings is the size of the inside diameter. Borable bushings are approximately .020” smaller inside. This extra material allows the properly equipped machine shop to bore the bushings “on center”, thus restoring the connecting rod to it’s proper center to center length. Honable bushings have a few thousandths of an inch of extra material on the I.D., and must be honed out after the bushing is pressed into the rod. These honable bushings are a great alternative for smaller machine shops and independent mechanics not equipped to bore the rods." On my last tractor motor rebuild I outsourced the connecting rod bushing replacements. Not sure it they pressed out the old and pressed in the new and that's it or if the sized them afterwards. For those that have done your own, do you hone/bore yours?
  12. Rebuilding the DT436 on my 1466. Head is at the machine shop getting done to it whatever they feel needs to be done to make it 100% reliable. Thoughts on the head bolts.....can I use my old ones or new ones needed? They're like $10 a piece which I think equates to almost $260 in bolts --- OUCH! Haven't measured the old ones but from outward appearance, they look fine. Thoughts?
  13. Would love to get their contact name and info. I would be willing to easily pay that and more for quality materials and stitching.
  14. Here is a listing for one that I inquired on back in November: https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-attachment/for-sale/176081705/1972-international-1066cab
  15. WOW....25HP compressors. And I thought my 5HP on the Quincy was powerful! Appreciate all the posts. Going to run a higher PSI in the system then use a regulator/ at the quick connects for reducing the PSI when needed or to at least capture the moisture further down stream. So excited about this (sorry it doesn't take much). It's going to be so much easier now to fill up the tires that require 110 PSI.
×
×
  • Create New...