Alex uk

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About Alex uk

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  • Birthday 07/07/1967

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  • Location
    Denstone England
  • Interests
    Tractor tech all my life.

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  1. 574 vs 674

    This could just be down to how the tractor spec when built on the line, you could get different transmission options and diff options if you wanted when new. A lot had a default ratio oftern 574 run AR 674 run DT . The letter codes are the gearbox /diff ratios . If you look either on the bell housing above the starter or to the right of the PTO shaft at the rear you will see a little stamped tag. This will have some numbers and letters on .The last 3 letters are the gear ratio and the PTO gearing . if you look in the parts manual , not sure in the ops manual it tells you the codes. These speed option run on all the Doncaster skid units right up the the 4230's and maybe later . It will have a ration to suit the tyre size against the torque of the tractor usally. Yes not a great deal of difference between the 2 tractors , the 674 does have a heavier duty front axle , the spindles are heavier and different front hubs and wheel bearing . Alex.
  2. Hi Guys. Found a 15 year old Scale models ride on farmall H on E bay over here in the UK . Don't see many of these US made ride on 's over here. So thought its worth a buy . My son has just about outgrown to play wit it, but would be a nice IH piece to have in my collection. Its around 100 miles from me , and was wanting to know how easy does the steering wheel and the rear wheels come off? It looks from the picture the steering wheel has a bolt through the steer shaft, though not sure on the wheels? Hopefully then I will be able to get it into the rear of my'16 Ford Mondeo (Ford Fusion in US) to collect. Its a bit of a run with my old trailer to fetch that. Oh I will be wanting a new decal set for it if I get it , as the paint as peeled of in some places, looks to me as its stood outside. Thank you. Alex.
  3. Thanks for the replys. I do some more searching after I posted the thread yesterday and I also found it listed on Amazon! But buyer will not ship overseas. I may have found a good used one close to me in England , little bit wary on fitting a used one , guess it could last 6 months or 6 years . The old 2850 I am working on has done some work , over 21,000 hours to date . rebuilt engine at 14,000 and rebuilt trans at 17,000. Though never fitted in shifter tubes, the lower hollow output shaft needle bearings failed that time. Do have a few pics if anyone as look . I have also had a go at welding the old one, it was a clean shear , I set it up in the lathe and gave it a few light tacks to get it center , then vee out the joint and mig welded it. The weld took good . Talked to the guys who tractor it is and if we cannot get a part in next week or so we may risk the welded part. If it was to fail again we will have let the tractor stand until get a new part. I do him very good rates on labour , as I use his shop sometimes and have my firewood timber from him also. 4-5 hours can have the cab off and the shifter out. I have sent some more info to the used part guy and hope I can get his part. These pictures are from 4 years ago when I had the tractor apart, if you look close at the first picture you can see the broken needle roller bearings, the large gear cluster above it runs over the main pinion shaft, the shifter tube now broke is the long gold coloured part close to the filter box , it is the hollow shaft with the high range shaft running through the center . Oh the joys of Deere. I'll take my camara up when I put it back together this time. Alex.
  4. Yes I know we are talking green here , but I have a an issue with a tractor I have for repair and Deere has let me down for the first ever time. I have always had good luck with John Deere parts even for older tractors all my working time, my local dealer has always been great. But I have a European Deere 2850 SG2 fwa tractor apart for gear selector shaft repair and my dealer has let me down , he is telling me Deere are cutting back on stock holding parts, guess its all down to money? The 2850 is the same tractor has a US market 2755/2955 , 4 cylinder turbo with 16x8 power syncron transmission. With Sound Gard cab and side mounted gear shift. I am looking the hollow shifter shaft for the Low-reverse shifter p/n AL55218 . Also the bush fitted to it L62818, seal L36621 Items 8,9,and 10 on the on line parts book. My dealer tells me its on a European wide back order well into next year! The tractor is needed before then. I have run the part through the US Deere parts system and it is the same part fitted to 2355,2455,2755, and 2955 tractors. May fit alot more models also. Anyone get on well with there JD Dealer who could run the number and stock of the part ? You guys over in the USA have helped me before finding a few odd parts. Thank you. Alex.
  5. Hydro 84

    Very nice. I done a lot on Hydro 74/84's Seen a fwa before. Always seemed odd IH did not offer the option in the UK where the tractor was built ? The Z-F axle is worry free next to the Kimco. Get it in some deep mud pulling it must use every last HP the tractor has!
  6. '44 Farmall H

    There was thread a while back about the correct gauge , did you start it? Be good to see how it looks, I am looking for the correct style gauges for my '44 Lease -lend M over here in England .with the round style IHC. As said just play steady while the adaptor , heat may help , heat around the plug not the plug itself.
  7. CaseIH 85 - 95 Series Tractors.

    To add to the park brake update , the 74 and 84 tractors never had the best park brake. When they modified the transmission in 1987 with the center drive fwa the changed the park brake for the better , though the lever is still a real stretch to use.Made some updates to the T-A and fwa hydraulic control too , the T-A is sharper which is good/bad guess which you like? The worst detail about that year upgrades were the front bonnet and side covers, went from metal to plastic/fiberglass , the side panels can fall off and the hood front can soon get damaged.
  8. preparing to paint the W-4

    Just looking through the daily threads. I am no expert painter , but have done a good few tractor over the time. All I will say it good to use red oxide as a base layer , but I'd give in a coat of either light gray or the buff/yellow primer you see before you put on the IH red. 2 reasons, it makes seeing how the reds going on better , and the red will look brighter and sharper when finished . Sure more guys will chime in , just my 2 cents.
  9. pto ? 784 series

    The PTO on the '84 tractors does stop once you move the lever pretty soon. I know how the Ford works , they have the band around the PTO hub , and yes the Ford will be a sharp with lightweight loading. The IH will soon stop dead also , works on a different idea by having the piston return springs clamp the base back tight and a lug on (No 28) this hits another lug on the rear casing , there is a little more give this way. But what you can do , I do sometimes when having something without a overun , is to just hold the lever off the stop a little , this leaves a little pressure in the piston letting you control it better, just the same as starting off the IH is very good to control , you can just feather in the lever, thats what the little step is for on the side console . The Ford lever is more on/off with a detent. Most hay machines have an overun on them that I have seen though. Seen the pic I had in my bucket yesterday so thought I'd add it just for your interest. Alex.
  10. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    You may have already done the job by now, but its your call. I would go to the effort to remove the flow and fill the front trans , esp. if it has sat and drained for a day or so. The front section has a stack pipe idea to put it one way so the front part always stays full to the top all the time the tractor is running , then the excess runs back to the rear. The oil gets to the front part from excess oil from the hydraulic circuits in the rear half, so when you do a full fluid change the tractor will have to run a while while to bleeds the air out of all the systems and starts filling up the front part . Any guy on this forum will tell you running any hydrostatic either a tractor or combine with no oil in the hydro is bad. Repairing these IH Hydros is £££ if you can find the parts. This is Hydro charge pump of the tractor on the baler , we spent alot of money rebuilding after this, down to ware and tare , though running dry may cause this. This what's under the hydro top plate, you only need to undo the filler plug. Its a cab off job to remove this far. Those are the swash plate servos you can see , the tube in the right hand corner is the stack pipe that keeps the front section full of oil. Lower down you can see the piston of both e pump and the motor. Alex. Oh the dates are incorrect on the pictures, we rebuilt the Hydro 2007, it still in daily use 10 years on.
  11. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    Here is my old hydro from a few years ago The roof has since been fixed , its still a working tractor . Oh this tractor hydro trans has been apart , it almost met its end when the hydro charge pump fell apart in 2005, but after much help from a few guys on the forum and some parts from the USA its still running today. Alex.
  12. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    Taking a look through some of my old pics, IH studio shot of H85 with Sekura cab While in the same folder and talking about Sekura cabs found this , IH did import a few 966 to to England and due to cab regulations had to fit a ROPS . They fitted the Dutch made Sekura cab to a 966 for a few years.There are still a few of these tractors . Alex.
  13. Hydro 84 filter locations and dipstick

    HI Van diesel. I see you sent me a PM , I have been away on holiday to France for a while. Just for the other guys on here , I know some of the Canadian guys will know , but the tractor is a Doncaster built Hydro 84 fitted with the optional Sekura flat deck cab. I have 2 of these tractors many ,many hours far better cab to drive than the low slug factory cab. I'll put my bit of info in for you now. First about the filter by-pass screens , the main filter you have off already has a 1/2" hole in the center for the fixing bolt, the hydro screen does not , thats the best way to tell. Next to draining all the old oil , you have drained some of the oil out off the 2 plugs you have shown, but there will still be maybe 15 litres under the rear axle, look under the r/h side rear axle and see where the return hose for the loader valve block screws in , take out the hose and the adaptor plug , there will be more old oil in there. Once all the oil is drained you can remove the hydro filter without worring about losing to much good oil. You are correct the filter is behind the plate you have marked , remove the 7 bolts and remove the teardrop shaped cast cover , the filter just sits in there. You may have to get or make a new gasket, you can reuse if its not ripped , just be careful if you use gasket sealer , don't really want any sealer getting into the hydro. Fit the new filters, I only use genuine CNH on hydros , and still fit the original style paper ones not the later metal style like on the '95 series . When you refit the main hyd filter make sure you don't twist the large O ring .It will cause lots of air problems if you do. As for refilling with oil I would go by the book, its a real pain on a Sekura cab but I still do it to save the hydro. You will have to remove the cab floor !! So depending on how tidy the cab still is here's how. Remove the 2 black strips that hold the floor mats in, remove the floor mats , in 3 parts have to work the r/h over the foot throttle, ove the mats (and the old dust dirt! are all out) there are 4 bolts 2 each side near the fenders that hold the floor plate in . Then go under the r/h side and remove the diff lock pedal, i undo the 17mm locknut and unwind the pedal from the ball joint , now lift the r/h side a little and see under the foot throttle linkage , remove the little spring clip that fixe's to the rod. With the playing around the floor plate will come out . I do also sometime take off the lower black dash cover to help to. You will then see the top of the hydro trans and the filler plug as in the picture already posted . You can then fit all the drain bungs and fill with oil, put a least 20 litres through the hydro fill plug, the rest can go in the large square plug above the rear linkage behind the cab. The dipstick on your tractor is at the rear of the tractor just to the left of the rear filler plug, just under the main cab frame . Once full of oil start the tractor and let it idle for a a few minuets , then try and lightly turn the steering left and right . See how you go it may take a while to get the steering to work again. If not stop the engine and retry a few times , if no joy get back to us and will tell you a few other ways to get it to work. Try the drive and see how it goes also.. Sorry to add this bit , you can't have used the tractor much , as the 'black box' you show us and the filler is the main fuel tank and filler. You don't want to be putting Hy-Tran in here! see how you go the the hydro drive , while you have the cab floor out I'd have a look at the hydro linkage , they do ware and you can remove alot of the slack with a little work, it will drive faster and feel better to use . Also worth checking the Foot- inch valve setting sometime , its a favorite place to loose drive pressure. Thats for another day. Hope this all helps. Alex.
  14. Steel Wheels

    Looking at your user name I guess you are from Nebraska ? I am looking out for a set of front steels for a W6 for a friend, sure M ones are the same . You are just to far from me , unless you know anyone who fills containers for the UK or Europe. But yes I'd let them sit in a fence row rather them melt them down , one day they will have there day.
  15. Part ID - top of engine

    You are correct, its the air cleaner blockage sensor , there should be a little plastic pipe going to the from part of the air cleaner just where the formed rubber hose comes out and goes to the the manifold. Looking at the second picture , what's that rod or pipe laying across the rocker cover towards the front of the engine?? The only thing I can think of is one of the battery clamp rods that has taken a walk over the top of the engine.