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striker782

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Posts posted by striker782

  1. This is pretty easy to do. The 3088 was only offered as open center. You don’t need a different end plate. The numbers that referred to are identified in the attached parts picture. On part #7, remote valve end plate, disconnect hydraulic line #22. Hook up your inlet hose from your loader valve to the fitting on #7 end plate. Hook up your loader valve return to hydraulic line #22. That is all that needs to be done. One thing that you need to be aware of is that if any foreign matter comes from the loader, it could possibly damage the MCV pump. I have hooked up quite a few like this over the years and haven’t had any problems. Also if you disconnect loader valve from the tractor you absolutely need to hook the pipe back up to end plate as there is constant flow in that circuit 

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  2. I am currently running a Magnum 315 CVT on a grain cart. I just looked and it is definitely an electronically controlled fan. It doesn’t roar at all. There is a hub on the front of the fan with a wire harness. At one time Case came with different software to address the noise issue. Your dealer should be aware of it. 

  3. There was a 196 power unit also. It was made up by Whites Inc out of Texas. We probably sold 50 of them for shallow irrigation wells. The engine was bulletproof. The radiator was the weak link. The motor was mounted solid to the frame so vibration was transferred to the radiator. 

  4. There was a change to the lube valve spool to help with this problem, especially in cold weather.  There was a service bulletin issued. Unfortunately I don’t have access to those any longer

  5. 1 hour ago, highcotton said:

    Educate me- what exactly is a diode TA?

     

    1 hour ago, TractormanMike.mb said:

    Just curious, what was the main improvement over the standard ta?

    The diode replaced the sprag clutch that was the drive for the low side in the TA. The diode sounded like a great idea but they didn’t prove reliable, especially in the 14s and 15s. The attached photo is not the one used in the TA but is similar. 

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    • Like 2
  6. Are you sure it’s bled out? Pump hand primer to get air out of lines and hose to pump. Put throttle at wide open for excess fuel. Crank engine. You can hear the pump clatter when it injects fuel. 

  7. Pump can still be off 180 as drive gear turns at engine speed while head and rotor turn half of that due to internal gearing. Just line up pump timing marks. Remove the three bolts holding gear on. Rotate pump driveshaft one full turn. Align marks. Install and tighten bolts. Make sure that degree timing is correct on dampener or flywheel of course 

  8. After having several customers 50 series have short bearing life or drive disc failures, I made a tool out of a spacer with a nut welded onto the end that fit snugly on the water pump bearing shaft to check alignment.  I then used a long threaded rod that extended out to the bearing support to check alignment. After aligning the support, bearing life and drive disc life were vastly improved. Also the whole air box/ radiator support sits on rubber isomounts. I’ve seen some of those cause problems. 

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  9. My dad had a 460 diesel that was a hard starter. I put in two 12 volt batteries and a series/parallel switch so it would crank on 24 volts. Worked really well. You just briefly touched the starter button and it was running! Unfortunately if the drive didn’t fully engage the ring gear it would chew up the drive teeth. So I had to go back to 12 volt cranking 

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