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Posts posted by Torque

  1. You can use the Magnum U-joint shaft, flanges and yokes. The shaft will need shortened some and the cover will not fit. Probably not any cheaper even with salvage yard parts but will not strip out again. They wear out because the front trunnion bushings get loose and the front axle no longer lines up with the shaft and wears out the splines.

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  2. I had an 895 the same way. The 1000 shaft is there, it drives the 540, they just cut it off flush with the cover unless you order it with 1000. I went to the salvage yard and bought the 1000 shaft and swapped it for the short one.

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  3. Yes, the sun shaft will come out of the U-joint, the whole hub assembly will come off. But... check the wheel bearings to make sure they are tightened to spec, most are way loose by now. Loose bearings are the reason for wheel bearing failure.

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  4. The center section is an Eaton H110. I do not know who made them, GM used them in army trucks from about 1939 on and in commercial  1 1/2 ton trucks. Up to 1979 they were still used in some motor home chassis. Army trucks were 6.17 or 6.72 ratio, I think Elwood used a commercial truck ratio. The steering knuckles are army truck and the planetaries were designed and built by Spicer and adapted (by them I assume) to the army truck axle. The army truck always used Bendix steering joints but the Elwood (at least the one I had apart) had the much improved Rzeppa joints, may have been part of the Spicer modification. 

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  5. Just so everyone understands, there were several changes to the speed transmission on the 50 series. The one that caused the most problems was the fine-tooth clutch packs. In a planetary tranny there is no side pressure, and the clutch packs always stay centered in the drum so the clutch plate teeth last very well. Unfortunately, IH used this same shape teeth on the clutch plates in a counter shafted tranny. The clearance between the shaft and the clutch drum is always pushed to the outside causing the hub to move in the clutch plates the amount of the clearance every revolution of the shaft, and this wears out the teeth. The fix was to make the teeth coarser and change the shape to one similar to an internal gear (think 400 series oil pump gears) so when the hub moves in the clutch plates it does not wear them out.

     Another change was to the high drive gears. For some reason IH used a fine-tooth gear (gear teeth) on the high drive/driven gears when all the others were heavier coarse toothed gears. These gears could fail under heavy load when the splines on the countershaft would get loose letting the countershaft gear run a little crooked.

    The fix to the countershaft was to go to keyed and pressed on countershaft gears.

    Problem is IH planned to change all this stuff at the same time, and the full update is to change the drive gears, clutches, driven gears, all countershaft gears and shaft. This was very expensive, so they came out with modified drive gears for the coarse updated clutch packs that still used the fine gear teeth, so you didn't need to change all that stuff. This is what the aftermarket sells.

    None of the 50 series ever came from the factory with these updated parts, the changeover serial # is after the last production tractor came off the line. Any tractor with them was dealer installed.

  6. They are probably CaseIH shovels, they are junk. I have lost 40-50 of them, the dealer replaced them for a while then said no more, said I was putting them too tight. I started putting them on with a 3/8" ratchet, they still break and fall off.

  7. Some start easily at that temp some not, depends on how good the compression is. You can put a can of ether on it if your dealer has any there. Procedure for ether use: turn key on, push ether button 2 seconds. Open throttle half way, start cranking, every 3 second of cranking quickly tap the ether button again, it will fire up, pull throttle to idle. Tranny will be slow to engage with cold oil, just got to wait when you let the clutch out.

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  8. 1 hour ago, Weapon said:

    Thanks for all the info guys. I’ve got 20 x100 lb weights on the front. When I pull the speed trans off the engine is it likely to topple over forward. 

    Thx, John 

    It will 100% tip over, been there done that. No damage, just thrilling. Four weights off and was fine.

  9. Miss spoke, the army trucks used Bendix joints, they have 4 balls between ears for steering. The one Elwood I had apart had rezeppa joints, they have a bell with grooves for the balls (6 I think) and a smaller internal driver with grooves to match.

  10. 9 hours ago, MinnesotaFarmall said:

    As in the whole assembly or just the differential and pinion assembly?

    GM never used that axle as a steering axle except in army trucks and they were never planetary final drive, so no, not the whole assembly. The planetary finals was a Spicer conversion and I have seen them on non steering industrial equipment and the Elwood. The center section is the same as the army trucks except ratio and I think the steering knuckle is the same also but the axle and spindle are different for the planetary. The Elwood uses U-joints and the army truck axles had rezepa joints for steering. 

  11. I did my Magnum 215 last fall.  It is a pain, I heated the boss on the axle red then used a 4X rivet gun (about 4 times a muffler gun). On mine the bushings were loose on those pins. Cleaned the rust off and they slid nice. Never seize the crap out of them when you go back.

  12. You do not have the complete update to the speed transmission because you clearly still have the 55 tooth high drive gear, but it may have the coarse clutch plate splines which is what you need. The complete update changed the high drive gear to a coarse 44 tooth gear that replaced the 55 tooth gear for greater strength. This required changing the counter shaft gear and output gear (high drive) to match. The problem is they changed to the pressed counter shaft from the splined one at the same time so you can't just change the gear on the counter shaft to match as they never made the coarse tooth countershaft gear that was splined so you have to change all the countershaft gears.

       88series restorer said they changed the high drive ratio when they went to the 44 tooth gear, this is not true, the ratio is the same. The original setup had a 55 tooth driving the counter shaft and a 55 tooth output gear for a 1 to 1 ratio. The coarse tooth setup was the same but it had a 44 tooth drive and 44 tooth output so still 1 to 1 ratio, the tooth count on the countershaft has no affect on the ratio.

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