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    SC Iowa

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  1. When I ran the "H" on the feed wagon it would do that to the point it would die. I carried a trigger light propane torch and would hop off and heat it up when it started to sputter.
  2. You can use the Magnum U-joint shaft, flanges and yokes. The shaft will need shortened some and the cover will not fit. Probably not any cheaper even with salvage yard parts but will not strip out again. They wear out because the front trunnion bushings get loose and the front axle no longer lines up with the shaft and wears out the splines.
  3. I had an 895 the same way. The 1000 shaft is there, it drives the 540, they just cut it off flush with the cover unless you order it with 1000. I went to the salvage yard and bought the 1000 shaft and swapped it for the short one.
  4. Have you checked for correct rod side clearance? Too tight will stop oil flow. Also a crank with too large of radius will do the same thing.
  5. Yes, the sun shaft will come out of the U-joint, the whole hub assembly will come off. But... check the wheel bearings to make sure they are tightened to spec, most are way loose by now. Loose bearings are the reason for wheel bearing failure.
  6. A friend bought a reamer to do his, I am sure he would sell it.
  7. Read online to back out spring and set idle 50 rpm low of what you want and then turn in bumper to raise rpm. Is this the correct procedure? Adjusted this a few years ago to stop surging but it is back to it, maybe something is worn out?
  8. There is a big 1000, I have one, might be for sale...
  9. The center section is an Eaton H110. I do not know who made them, GM used them in army trucks from about 1939 on and in commercial 1 1/2 ton trucks. Up to 1979 they were still used in some motor home chassis. Army trucks were 6.17 or 6.72 ratio, I think Elwood used a commercial truck ratio. The steering knuckles are army truck and the planetaries were designed and built by Spicer and adapted (by them I assume) to the army truck axle. The army truck always used Bendix steering joints but the Elwood (at least the one I had apart) had the much improved Rzeppa joints, may have been part of the Spicer modification.
  10. I think all of them with cast centers had 40" tires so H&M rims will not fit and the axles on them were 2 5/8" so 2 1/2" H wheels will not fit. If you were really motivated, you might get 2 3/4" M wheels to fit with some bushings.
  11. Just so everyone understands, there were several changes to the speed transmission on the 50 series. The one that caused the most problems was the fine-tooth clutch packs. In a planetary tranny there is no side pressure, and the clutch packs always stay centered in the drum so the clutch plate teeth last very well. Unfortunately, IH used this same shape teeth on the clutch plates in a counter shafted tranny. The clearance between the shaft and the clutch drum is always pushed to the outside causing the hub to move in the clutch plates the amount of the clearance every revolution of the shaft, and this wears out the teeth. The fix was to make the teeth coarser and change the shape to one similar to an internal gear (think 400 series oil pump gears) so when the hub moves in the clutch plates it does not wear them out. Another change was to the high drive gears. For some reason IH used a fine-tooth gear (gear teeth) on the high drive/driven gears when all the others were heavier coarse toothed gears. These gears could fail under heavy load when the splines on the countershaft would get loose letting the countershaft gear run a little crooked. The fix to the countershaft was to go to keyed and pressed on countershaft gears. Problem is IH planned to change all this stuff at the same time, and the full update is to change the drive gears, clutches, driven gears, all countershaft gears and shaft. This was very expensive, so they came out with modified drive gears for the coarse updated clutch packs that still used the fine gear teeth, so you didn't need to change all that stuff. This is what the aftermarket sells. None of the 50 series ever came from the factory with these updated parts, the changeover serial # is after the last production tractor came off the line. Any tractor with them was dealer installed.
  12. They are probably CaseIH shovels, they are junk. I have lost 40-50 of them, the dealer replaced them for a while then said no more, said I was putting them too tight. I started putting them on with a 3/8" ratchet, they still break and fall off.
  13. Some start easily at that temp some not, depends on how good the compression is. You can put a can of ether on it if your dealer has any there. Procedure for ether use: turn key on, push ether button 2 seconds. Open throttle half way, start cranking, every 3 second of cranking quickly tap the ether button again, it will fire up, pull throttle to idle. Tranny will be slow to engage with cold oil, just got to wait when you let the clutch out.
  14. It will 100% tip over, been there done that. No damage, just thrilling. Four weights off and was fine.
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