Torque

The army axles were 6.17 or 6.72 ratio. Chevy 1 1/2 ton trucks in the 40s and 50s used that center section, some were even 2 speed. It was also used in GM based motor homes up to '79 but I do not know any of the ratios. It is an Eaton H110.

I have used a glass bead sand blaster with good success on corroded terminals. Like this one. Portable Handheld Air Compressor Speed Sand Gun Blaster SandBlasting | eBay

It's not hard to make them or have a welding shop make a set for you. They are just flat steel and tube.

Make sure to disconnect the radio antenna and ground before lifting the roof.

Unfortunately, if it is the clutch basket/shaft, they are not available, discontinued by caseIH and McCormick. Used is the only option.

No need to get the air out, it will build pressure all the same. It's not like brakes where reaction time is important.

Thanks guys, the picture of the drum is the weld bead my kid put on it. Good to know you have had it hold. I turned the inside of the drum and shaft in the lathe until they would just slide together so should be true.

Snap ring groove looks good, should I band it anyway? Do you think rewelding the drum to shaft will hold?

MX 100 broke the clutch drum off the transmission input shaft, #113555A2, discontinued by CNH. So had my son the welder weld it....looks good but wondered about welding some short beads on the outside of the drum to the gear just to make it stronger. Anyone repair one of these before? What do you think?

You can put a grease fitting in to lube that bushing. Drill an 1/8" hole cross ways through the steering shaft centered on the bushing. Then drill down from the center of the steering wheel end to connect to the cross hole then tap and screw in a grease fitting. All you need to do then is pop the horn button off a couple times a year and grease it.

When I ran the "H" on the feed wagon it would do that to the point it would die. I carried a trigger light propane torch and would hop off and heat it up when it started to sputter.

You can use the Magnum U-joint shaft, flanges and yokes. The shaft will need shortened some and the cover will not fit. Probably not any cheaper even with salvage yard parts but will not strip out again. They wear out because the front trunnion bushings get loose and the front axle no longer lines up with the shaft and wears out the splines.

I had an 895 the same way. The 1000 shaft is there, it drives the 540, they just cut it off flush with the cover unless you order it with 1000. I went to the salvage yard and bought the 1000 shaft and swapped it for the short one.

Have you checked for correct rod side clearance? Too tight will stop oil flow. Also a crank with too large of radius will do the same thing.

Yes, the sun shaft will come out of the U-joint, the whole hub assembly will come off. But... check the wheel bearings to make sure they are tightened to spec, most are way loose by now. Loose bearings are the reason for wheel bearing failure.