Sign in to follow this  
cwburrell

5088 Transmission issues

Recommended Posts

I know this topic has been discussed many times on this forum but I was hoping to start a fresh line of discussion instead of searching endless topics. I recently purchased a 5088 (the price was right......hopefully) to run along with my 3688. The 5088 has 8300 hours and runs like a top but it will not go into any gears. When I put it into a gear and let the clutch out, I just get a small bump and then nothing. I can change gears and get the same result again. Any suggestions on where to start? It has an * after the serial number on the data plate and I read somewhere that indicates it has the upgraded transmission from the factory correct?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No power to the sentry module. Google 5088 won"t move and you'll bring up a old thread that will guide you through Mike Links fix for this issue.

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The asterisk after the serial number doesn't mean anything, unless something has surfaced.

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info John, I'll check that out. Matt, is there any way at all then to tell if it has been updated?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only way is with a strong flashlight check the main housing capscrews between clutch housing section and speed housing section or the rear section and look for broken off paint chips on the capscrew heads. If chips of paint are gone there is a good chance somebody used an impact gun to loosen or tighten the capscrews.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only way is with a strong flashlight check the main housing capscrews between clutch housing section and speed housing section or the rear section and look for broken off paint chips on the capscrew heads. If chips of paint are gone there is a good chance somebody used an impact gun to loosen or tighten the capscrews.

That just would suggest it was repaired it doesn't indicate at all if it was updated. Mike has explained what to look for in a previous thread

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is correct but I think anyone spending the money to split it would be stupid not to do the clutch and splines updates while it is all torn apart. Just my thought although you have a good point. Examples of Darwinism get born every day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is correct but I think anyone spending the money to split it would be stupid not to do the clutch and splines updates while it is all torn apart. Just my thought although you have a good point. Examples of Darwinism get born every day.

See it all the time George, people want fixed what's broke right now even though there is other future problems staring them right in the face and you can't tell them different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is correct but I think anyone spending the money to split it would be stupid not to do the clutch and splines updates while it is all torn apart. Just my thought although you have a good point. Examples of Darwinism get born every day.

See it all the time George, people want fixed what's broke right now even though there is other future problems staring them right in the face and you can't tell them different.
X2

I think a higher percentage of the population is the Darwinism crowd nowadays

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it

That is correct but I think anyone spending the money to split it would be stupid not to do the clutch and splines updates while it is all torn apart. Just my thought although you have a good point. Examples of Darwinism get born every day.

See it all the time George, people want fixed what's broke right now even though there is other future problems staring them right in the face and you can't tell them different.
X2
I think a higher percentage of the population is the Darwinism crowd nowadays

It has not change much But how about if it was repaired before there was updates If we were not repairing them before that there would have been NOTHING to update. the only reason the updates came along is we were fixing too many of them and before the updates all we had was original design parts from IH.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just had the exact same issue last week with my 5488. Ended up being the switch behind the clutch pedal that reset the sentry every time you clutch wasn't making a connection. As per Mike Links advice, I adjusted the switch one revolution into the cab, and that has cured my issue so far. One thing to remember is to only do it one turn at a time, as if you go way out with the switch you can push it into or even through the firewall. I should say first that to check if this is the issue push the button by hand. You should hear a click. This is the sentry resetting. If this is the case I bet it will take off for you after that. If you don't hear a click, I would bet that the switch is no good. As for the updates, I read somewhere that if the update was done by a dealer, they were supposed to put a mark after the serial number, but couldn't tell you for sure. Mine has a little under 4800 hours with no updates, and still shifts like a dream.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a little time to do some troubleshooting today and discovered an added on wire that was disconnected. Not sure what someone was trying to do but it appears they cut and spliced onto all three wires that run up to the switches on the gear shifts. They had one wire connected to a constant power which would apparently drain the batteries so they disconnected it. When I reconnected this wire, it gave me high and low range but only the odd gears. Even gears just give a little bump when I let the clutch out. Reverse works but is a little tricky to get into. I have to shift to medium and then back to reverse and it will go right in. Low range feels like it tries to go in but all I get is a light grinding feeling. I'm going to try to figure out the wiring issues and do the service bulletin that Mike refers to which moves the sentry power wire off of the left battery. Thanks to Maynard for sending me a copy of it. If anyone has any suggestions on the reverse, low range and even gear issues please let me know. I'm making progress thanks to the abundant knowledge on this website!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting all the wiring back in good shape and working correctly is the first big step. Then you can trouble shoot much better. The solenoids on the left hand side behind the battery box can be an issue, wiring bad going to them, or one not working they control the odd/even hydraulic pressure. So make sure those are working also...just make sure tractor is out of gear. Sometimes a relay goes bad on sentry and switching relays moves the problem from odd to even and back again as you change the relays around. Worst case is the sentry is bad and has to be replaced. Beyond that, it may be transmission issue...

Sometime you need to get a gauge on the tractor and make sure system pressure is between 265 and 300 psi so the transmission has the correct pressure to work right.

The only way to really tell if the tractor has the updates is to open up the lower left transmission side panel, then you have to know what you're looking for to tell if it is the IH update with different gears and shafts or if its the aftermarket style update. If you really want to figure that out, you must drain the hydraulic oil then open it up.

Keep talking to Mike Links, he can walk you through those sentry/loss of gears issues over the phone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Duke is right check earths, pressure switches make sure they are the new ones and not leaking, also pressures, full 12v to sentry and relays, does sound like sentry. Also make sure neutral switch has got 10 ohms does not take much to play up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm stuck trying to get the wiring back where it is supposed to be. There are three wires in a harness that come down from the micro switch on the gearshift lever. These wires were cut off and two of them were extended and tapped into the wires running to the solenoids behind the left hand battery box. The other one was routed to a hot wire. I cannot for the life of me figure out where those three wires are supposed to be connected. I can't see any place where other wires are cut off. Can anyone tell me where those three wires would have originally been connected to the system?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Matt! This is great stuff!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Give me your email and I'll send you a bunch of bulletins. You can pm it to me if you'd like.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

5288IH/superih,

Maynard (Jim) sent the following bulletins/wiring updates so im in the process of going through them. S-4841, S-4899, S-4620, S-4621 If you have any others that you feel would be helpful let me know and I'll send a PM with my email.

Thanks to Matt I was able to use the wiring diagrams to figure out how to put my tampered with wiring back to original. The wires had been cut off flush with the snakeskin way up under the seat. Now I just need time to pull the seat out and actually fix it so I can get back to troubleshooting!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What does S-4899 cover?

I have;

S-4372

S-4620

S-4621

S-4741

S-4763

S-4800

S-4841

SB-01087

SB-03492

S-48

Let me know which ones you would like to have.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4899 was for the clutch pivot sticking. I'll send you a PM. thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What does S-4899 cover?

I have;

S-4372

S-4620

S-4621

S-4741

S-4763

S-4800

S-4841

SB-01087

SB-03492

S-48

Let me know which ones you would like to have.

S-4899 covers clutch pivot that connects the cable to the control spool sticking, I find a lot of them that don't move freely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What does S-4899 cover?

I have;

S-4372

S-4620

S-4621

S-4741

S-4763

S-4800

S-4841

SB-01087

SB-03492

S-48

Let me know which ones you would like to have.

S-4899 covers clutch pivot that connects the cable to the control spool sticking, I find a lot of them that don't move freely.

Can you please email me a copy as I do not have that one. My email is my red power forums handle @hotmail.com. If you don't understand I'll PM it to you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got all my wiring back in order and did wire updates recommended by Mike so here's where I am now. In both low side or high side I only get a slight nudge of tractor movement and then the sentry light comes on. Checked pressures on both high and low sides and needle jumps up to 200psi for a split second and then kicks back to zero. Don't think I have an issue with the clutch switch that little feller referred to because my sentry system will reset when I push the clutch back in. Not sure how to test the pressure switches next to the test ports, it appears one is new style and one is old style. Is there a way to test the swithes? Since neither side works I can't just switch them. Am I down to needing a sentry module now?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this