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Holt1066

Tips and tricks for tractorpulling

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Ive been tractor pulling for two years and looking for some tips and tricks from you guys who have been pulling for awhile. Im thinking about buy new parts, injectors, fuelpump, lines,turbo turbo maybe more if budget allows. Where do u guys buy ur parts?. Pictures of weight brackets for ideas exspecially for the 3pt Any information is apricated.

I pull a 1066 in farm "stock" 11,000 - 15,000 lbs i have 20.8 x 38 firestones, fuelpump screw been backed out still need to dyno soon.

Rules: no cut tires, stock appearing, rpm under 3,000. Everything is on the honners system.

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First off KNOW your realistic goals. Many beginning tractor pullers get caught up in the BUY parts mode and go way over budget. What will it take to be competitive in your class? Will 250hp do it? Will it take an honest 500 to be in the middle of the class? Do you need to build a strong 466 or a sleeper 570? On occasion you can find a good deal on "Pulloff" page for sale. Guys update pumps etc and sell good parts, on occasion you can get stung. Currently Harts seems to be the shop that is talked about having some of the best turbos. BUT if your class dictates a box turbo there are good choices.

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Somewhere in the 250hp to 300hp range. Ive thought about going to a 466. Just considering my options

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Gonzo

Where is this Pulloff page that you refer to? Could you post a link or other reference to help me? Thank you! :):) PM me if you can help.

GT&T

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First off, are there rules and then if there are, does some one enforce them. Reason I ask is you don't want a big cube engine then they find out and you spent money for nothing. Most guys around here will go to 466 cubes, 3lm turbo, then a different head in pump with lines and injectors to match. But it's also the class with the most rule benders. Let us know what your limits are then we can give you more info. On which way to go.

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Pulloff.com is the site he's referring to. According to the rules you gave guys can be running road gear! But if you build for that either you'll get kicked out or the price to build for that class will skyrocket!

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the rules that i have ran across are; not cut tires, rpm limit of 3,000, hitch hight of 18in, must be stock appearing. There has been guys that have ran road gear at some pulls. But tractors that hot are rare. I personally dont want to get that invested. Im looking to pull a strong high first gear.

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I have pulled my 1066 for the past 6 years and pull in h2. I consistently take home 1st and 2nd place trophies. I pull anywhere from 11000 to 15000 lbs. I've heard painting racing stripes on the hood will give you an extra 20 hp.

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If you want a good first gear pull, then your stock pump lines and injectors will work. Upgrade to a 3lm 466 box turbo. Have your injectors checked. Should be easy enough for 1 st. Gear. You can pull the air filter out if you want, just make sure you install it back if you do any work with it.

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Tires, Tires, Tires, you can have all the power in the world, if you don't get it to the ground you are just donating your money.

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Pulloff page Lots of good information and some pinheads too. http://www.pulloff.com/phorum/index.php

I would recommend staying with the 414 to start with, get a good fuel system and charger. IF it takes more then find a truck 466c and do a good build on it you can transfer the air and fuel from the 414.

High first will take a good 350-400hp to make it work at those weights. Stock appearing pump, a 13mm head will work wonders, a HYPER 15mm pump is more of everything and I understand quite expensive and less reliable. With a good 13mm pump you need bigger lines and good injectors. You can find the bigger inner diameter lines from the higher horespower truck engines with the AMBAC pump. OR buy them from a good fuel shop and try your hand on bending your own (good luck on the first set) dont ask how I know this. Find out if water or water-alcohol injection is legal. If you can run water-alky injection in the intake that can give 75hp and be easier on the engine.

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Water, alcohol and all other fuels other then diesel is illegal.

At 350-400 horse how would the T/A and clutch hold up?

What size line and injectors?

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Get your HP up to run 2nd high. 13 MM pump .093 lines 5-20 injectors and a 3LM466 will get you there. Then work on your setup. If you are pulling a heavy weight class in your avatar pic it tells me your not pulling very hard because it doesn't appear to have fronts weights. Get radial tires and start out with 15PSI you may need to go to 13PSI. I hear a lot of guys wanting to run 18-20 PSI and I've been there done that and I've never done well with that high of PSI for that class.

Make a rear weight rack that pins to the 2 holes in your 3rd point link so you can hang suit case weights on. Make a belly bar to put suit case weights on. Get your drawbar to max height and move it in close to axle center as rules allow. We are allowed 24inches to axle center but with the PTO and stock drawbar support I can't quite get there. Once you get your setup right you want to carry your front end just dancing off the track past the 3/4 mark and when I'm really deep in the hook I want it to stand up a little bit but not to far. Once you get your setup right you should only ever move a couple weights. Don't over think it. With my setup over the years weather its a little wet or dry I will move one weight at the most.

Anyway there is my 2 cents worth.

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I haven't pulled for a couple years because of low turnout in the stock classes but I ran my 1066 in 11700 and 12700 with a 414, plus head from a truck engine,3lm 466 turbo,stock pump with 13mm head, .093 lines, stock 2nd gear,20.8 Firestones,and a hd 21 spring single disc clutch. Never touched the TA on the big end, I have enough horses to run h3 but can't get out of the hole without a double disc clutch. A standard clutch will not take more than about 300hp and you will smoke it IMHO.

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I must say tractor pulling is a disease and it can break a guy if not careful. Don`t get me wrong, I do it and have had a puller that was only a puller (to hot to farm with). Just have fun and don`t worry about getting first place. Believe me some of your competition has thousands invested in their fuel systems. A fellow puller friend of mine got caught up in building a first place tractor and a couple years later they lost the farm over it. Not a good deal. Just my experience and two cents. Just have fun!

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I know it was said above about getting hitch up to max allowed YES do that ............. sliding it in to a minimum I cannot agree with. If you have a front end heavy tractor then this would counter act what you are doing. YES its is about balance but be willing to do a few things that go against the grain. AND I have had VERY good luck on 18.4x38 vrs 20.8x38 ........... they have always had better bite (plus slide them in as narrow as possible) all this becomes concentrated weight. Also my 18.4x38 were firestone radial all on 18" rims at 24-26 psi (I won ALLOT) radials tend to like to be aired up............. its how they were designed

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Is there a speed limit in the classes you wish to run in? If there is, that will greatly affect the list of modifications needed to be competitive.

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Learn your drawbar height and length Most tractors will have a sweet point. also different tracks will be different adjustments

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Well thankyou guys for the information.

Hooked66 some classes i pull have speed limits, but there are not that many.

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I have pulled my 1066 for the past 6 years and pull in h2. I consistently take home 1st and 2nd place trophies. I pull anywhere from 11000 to 15000 lbs. I've heard painting racing stripes on the hood will give you an extra 20 hp.

Darn right a 1066 putting out good power needs to race down the track and pull back TA in time and once you think its over drop the clutch seen this past summer were a farmer used a 766 and took out a 1066 in a pull just because he knew how to pick the grears

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Tires, Tires, Tires, you can have all the power in the world, if you don't get it to the ground you are just donating your money.

I like that answer , I say it Traction ,Traction Traction ,Is first thing

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post-44824-0-34113700-1454687918_thumb.j

Don't put all your weight on the back!

Beyond that you are way out of my league. I take my antiques to the pulls and throw on some weights to get sorta close to a class and have some fun for nearly no money.

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Hey guys, I'm a new member so go easy on me lol. I ran my 1486 in the 11,500-12,500 it was a lot of work to strip it down but well worth it. 18.4-42 radials on press steel, stock pump "10mm" turned as hot as it can get, s2e charger and 2950rpms. I ran H2 and she spun out. Drawbar was all the way out due to the fact I could not throw more than 200lbs of weight on back or I would have been over weight for the class. Took 2nd place and it was the first pull for this tractor. Was a lot of fun and pretty cheap fun.

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I agree in part with the Tires Tires Tires comment,, HOWEVER you can learn a bunch about balance and method in pulling without spending lots of money of tires. Just learning to read the track can be an art form. Learning on what you need to do to make your tractor pull to its maximum potential is very important. Learning to NOT let your nerves dictate bad decisions is also important.

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Are your firestone 20.8x38's radial? Are you allowed to run 42"s? Kent

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