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Az.Nick    0

Guys,

I'm seeking advise and gearing up to dive into Rex's engine issue, which I believe is at least a spun bearing. As I mentioned in my post awhile back, I was working Rex and developed a horrible vibration/shaking at my feet on the main frame. I immediately lost oil pressure and engine started to lope heavily before shutting down. All the other gauges read in the normal range at the time. I tried to turn it over with no fuel one time after the shut down, and the vibration was present on tune over. To my knowlege this 282 has never been rebuilt. The engine case is intact from the best I can tell.

I've looked over the archives for posts on lower end issues and didn't come up with any matches. I welcome any links or advise on this issue. I've never been in the D282 engine on this machine. Is this something that be done in frame or does it need to come out? What are the main points to look for and the nessary steps I need to keep in mind?

Thanks in advance,

Nick

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BOBSIH856    0

Usually in the event of engine failure you will want to do an out of frame overhaul. You probably got metal particles in the oil galleys and will need to get the block cleaned.

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Nick,

I did an in frame overhaul of all bearings, rings, sleeves, seals, etc.

However, if you spun a bearing I agree with Bob, you'll probably want to clean the galleys

and maybe get it dipped. I don't know. The 282 is pretty easy to work on in place, and the 9 is not a bad stand to have it sitting in.

If I could get into a shop or covered building, I'd drop the pan and have a look see before deciding.

If I didn't see anything, I'd start removing things one at a time. Bearings, etc. and continuing till I found something.

If you can't get the tractor into a shop, it may be easier to pull it if you have something else to lift with. Beats laying on the ground and being

weathered.

D

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Kevingweq    0

Does the 282 have a balancer (gear driven) ??

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I don't think it does. It has a "dampener" which is what they call the crankshaft pulley which is just a mass (weighs 40# or so). The only thing my book lists under vibration and uneven operation is the valve train breaks (valve spring breaks, push rod bends, etc) or the fuel pump goes south (timing off for what ever reason).

Maybe start at the top with removing the valve cover,

D

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Az.Nick    0

Thanks for the feedback guys. Need to free up some garage space and get a look at it.

Maybe I didn't put enough emphasis on the vibration, it felt like the engine was trying pass through the clutch compartment. One of those moments that brings all hands, ear's, & eyes on deck, and you say "That's Not Good" :o.

What other possibilities could it be with the loss of oil pressure, that's why I was leaning toward the bearings?

Nick

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ronm    0

If it's that bad a noise, the FIRST & probably the only possibility is a rod bearing. That is the first thing that runs dry when the oil pressure goes away...not a good idea to start it again, even to load it or limp it in the shop. That ain't opportunity knockin', & it won't be long before a rod shows itself through the side of the block...seen it happen too many times. One more minute of run time could be the difference between a usable crank & block and a pile of scrap.

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magicmikey    0

Hello Nick

With the heavy shakin I would suspect you have a two piece crankshaft. :(

mike

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Az.Nick    0

Ron, much agreed on the rest start, I think I got of lucky on not getting any new inspection holes in the block. It was a workout for the Ford 4500 backhoe to herd Rex back to the shop. Its was like Chihuahua pushing and elephant in a deep sleep :blush: and the corners were a bear!

MM- I'm think'n your suspicion might match what I felt in the main frame. I'm glad I took your advise and purchased the parts machine for a rainy day ;) .

I definitely have a new years resolution/project to fulfill......

Nick

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Az.Nick    0

Well now that its over 110 degrees here, I thought it would be a good time to handle some iron:blush:!

I got Rex up on the slab last weekend and pulled the pan and MM your correct, I have a two piece crank at the #6 bearing.  That explains the heavy shacking at my feet.  I made the decision to pull the motor and do it right.  If you remember the engine was the only thing that we didn't touch during the restore, so going to bring it up to speed.  If you have any suggestions moving forward, I'm all ears. I do need a good reference on parts for bearings & possibly the engine rebuild kit/part #?

I dug out the later spare 282 motor for parts and need to look at the crank and head. Will the crank part #'s be the same if the engine block #'s are the same?  

I remember reading a topic on the later heads having bigger valves. I'm thinking of swapping out the heads, being the engine part #'s are the same. I will post to that conversation to share the info.

Thanks,

Nick

 

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magicmikey    0

AFAIK they should be the same. Taking the junk engine head off you can compare.

Grabatire mixed and matched on his, I will get him to chime in.:D

mike

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Grabatire    0

Jeez that's bummer Nick, but I can't help you much. My TD9-91 'Ruthless' has the 350 cid engine. Those engines were used in a lot of different applications. Combines, power plants, crawlers, farm tractors etc. They did quite well in the 706 and 560 wheel tractors, but when IHC put them in the 660, they increased the RPMs, fed a little more fuel to them and crank trouble followed. 

 

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Az.Nick    0

Thanks for the replies.

I was working Rex at the time of the issue, pushing dirt and all of a sudden "pow"!  I was up about 3/4's on the throttle and not sure if there is a limit I should of been maintaining, doesn't have an RPM gauge!

Grabatire, is my 282 considered a 660 series or?

I'm currently soaking the parts motor, due to it being stuck and hope to pull its crank as a fix.

Nick

 

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waterloo    0

Possible cause would be a bearing failed beside it. Causing an unbalanced load on the crank. Snap!

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Az.Nick    0

Great point WL, will know soon, when I get it  opened up.

Thanks for the reply.

Nick

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