Tanker916

1952 I/H T6 Crawler Project

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I have tried using a brass rod and going on both ends in a attempt to "sea saw" them out. I then tried to take a small flat head and get it between the key and the bar, again no luck. im about to take a pair of vice grips to these guys and start pulling. Before I do that I would like to ask if anyone has any other ideas and how hard replacement keys are to find.

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woodruff keys are very common , go to mcmaster carr and take a peek

Use a drift a bit smaller than width of key , hit it on one end , try to keep following it with the hits,

they usually keep pivoting and then pop out .

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Replacement keys are hardware items and very common. I have used a pair of diagonal cutters to grip them and pry them out. May have to give them a good lick with a punch on one end to get them started. They'll roll out.

good luck. Maybe your helper can help.

Dennis

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Kevin, looks like you posted while I was typing. Same thoughts anyway

Dennis

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Farmaldr do you have a pic of the cutters you are refering to? These keys are sorly testing my patience. I have hit them with every kind of lub I can find repeatedly. Heated the bar then put ice on the key itself followed by hitting it with a punch that was sitting in ice. I even put a pair of vice grips on it, hooked it up to a hoist and let it rip. So far all I have done is deform the key and scalded my hands.

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Heat that key till it's cherry red, let it cool, then put a cold chisel up against the end and whale away. You have to kinda hit up on the end. Hitting sideways doesn't do much good. I've had stubborn ones, but they always give way to perseverance :)

D

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I have drilled a series of holes in them, Basically just to weaken them , Had a really large woodruff key stuck on a 800 hp stump grinder

ended up drilling and tapping a hole so I could get a hook bar under the head of a bolt ,

What are you using to heat with Oxy acet torch ?? Or ---

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Tanker,

Here ya go pics. Diagonal cutters, dikes, side cutters all the same tool. Not sure they'll do it if keys are that tough. They are suppose to be a tight fit

but you are having more trouble than usual.

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good luck

Dennis

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Wow after much cursing and a few sore knuckles I got the suckers out of there. Boy are they mangled.

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So im on to the last step which says to remove the cap screws from the back plate. First thing is I want to confrim that this is the back plate.

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Second thing is I wanted to confirm this is the bolt the manual is talking about.

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The finale thing is the manual says to remove the transmission shaft. Question I have is I feel like Im missing a removal step. Even if I were to remove the back plate I don't see how it could be removed as there isn't enough clearence. Will all become clear when I get the back plate off or am I correct in that I am missing a removal step.

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With the backplate loose as you pull the shaft rearward it clears the pilot bearing and all becomes floppy. Removing the pilot bearing grease zerk gives a bit more room to clear the coupler as the shaft comes up.

mike

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I could be wrong but I would think you could leave the clutch assy as is in your pictures, attached to the flywheel, and remove it with the engine.

Then remove it from the flywheel when its on the floor. You are removing the engine anyway right?

Dennis

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Rgr the entire reason I'm pulling the clutch is because the manual says to in order to pull the engine.

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farmalldr is right. leave the clutch on the back of the engine and take it off after. you may be able to lift the clutch out of a T6 but on the 9 series which is covered in the same manual, the clutch will not come up out of the main frame without grinding access notches on either side of the case. My manual says to disconnect the clutch coupling, which you have done, but not to remove the clutch before removing the engine.

George

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Hmm for the Diesel it says the clutch can stay on but in the gas section it says it take it off. Is there really that big if a difference?

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If I am pulling the engine, I would leave it on. If you take it off before pulling the engine, you are lifting the clutch, back plate, and shaft out as an assembly, not easy to do. In my manual, it says to leave it on when pulling the engine, just take the 3 bolts out of the coupling. then in the clutch section it says to remove the clutch assembly out of the top. There are many here who will testify to the fact that on the 9's it will not come up thru the opening, the engine has to be pulled. I don't know if the clutch on the 6's are smaller or the opening bigger.

George

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I have done TD6- 61/62, TD9- 92 and TD9B, the clutch comes out from the top on both. The parts book shows the same clutch for T6 and TD6

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Thanks for that Louie. I have a Td9 and a TD91 and 2 T9 parts machines, and I know they will not come out of the top on any of those. I have seen people posting on here where the housing has been ground on both side so they could get them in and out. They must have fixed the problem on the later series.

George

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post-54438-0-29714100-1462581324_thumb.j

They have two covers, the inspection cover and the frame cover, you pull the frame cover, the clutch comes straight up, the flywheel will not come out without grinding the sides of the mainframe or pulling the engine.

I have an old (1952 TD6) here, it has the same covers as item 24 and 25.

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So I got the back plate bolts out and pulled the shaft as far forward as possible. I can't lift it out as it hasn't completly cleared the inside of the clutch but I think I can now slide the motor forward. The reason I took it off was the motor won't clear the leaf spring infront of the engine plate. It only has two inches of room.

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Man, is old age setting in. total brain cramp. Louie, you are right. It is the flywheel that won't come up thru the opening, not the clutch. man, do I feel stupid. I guess I am going to have to do a complete teardown and reassembly on one of my crawlers to refresh my memory. But in my defense, It has been 20 plus years since I have had to take one apart. Tanker916, you realize to slide the engine forward you have to take out the 6 bolts on the bottom of the mainframe and jack the mainframe and engine up, and block it up to pull the engine forward?

George

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I saw in the manual it says it to do that for a td6 but nothing about that for a t6. When I got to looking underneath the middle of the leaf spring is hard bolted to the frame. So when I tried to jack up the front the entire tractor went up rather than just the center frame.

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I saw in the manual it says it to do that for a td6 but nothing about that for a t6. When I got to looking underneath the middle of the leaf spring is hard bolted to the frame. So when I tried to jack up the front the entire tractor went up rather than just the center frame.

You will find there is one basic difference between your T6 and the TD6...it is the fuel either machine burns.....so...apart from the respective ancillary fuel systems......there is no difference.....thus your TD6 manual can be adhered to.....for dismantling

Mike

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It is the flywheel that won't come up thru the opening, not the clutch.

KoO puts a wee ground notch either side of the housing/casting to allow the flywheel to come out... if my memory is correct. I can't find a reference right now.

Otherwise to get the engine past the leaf spring you need to jack the front up and detach the spring to get more vertical separation between the spring and engine.

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Yup you are all correct I had to jack up the fram and put jack stands in. Long story short I was able to get the leaf spring off and engine removed. Im mad at myself for getting the clutch off when it could have easily stayed on. That said now that it is off I got to looking at the clutch plate and good lord that sucker is going to get replaced. There was almost nothing left of it.

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Me and one of my helpers.

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Success. Good thing you had all the help you had

Dennis

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