Tanker916

1952 I/H T6 Crawler Project

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No lube? I know it should have gear oil in it. Someone here should be able to tell you what type. You rally need to get the manuals for that!

On my D4. Did get the pony motor running only to find out that the belt that the starter drives to start the pony was bad and no further adjustment is possible. So I take it the drive assembly off and have to press it apart to get he new belt on the pulley. Got it all put back on, got the pony running and turned the main engine over. No start. I'm pretty sure it the injector rack is stuck and I'll address that in the morning. May have to pull the carb apart. I'm pretty sure the needle valve is sticking open.

Ah the field.......when I first retired I really missed that. Now I wouldn't want to do that again! Lot of long hours and hard work. I'm really glad young guys like you have stepped up to the plate and taken over from us old has been's.

Rick

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I am totally confused about the PTO shaft. On the bigger machines it is just a shaft with splines on the end that inserts like any other spline shaft. From the few I have seen, normally the shaft is supplied by who ever made the accessory and it bolts directly to the accessory. IH made a standard one, but cable drum suppliers often did not use it, preferring to not have to deal with an extra joint in the middle.

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That compartment should have gear oil in it, 14 qts, Your PTO shaft appears

to have a coupling ?? the shaft that comes from the transmission compartment

should have a male spline , Maybe it is just stuck a bit ??

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I have gone through the owners and dealers manuale. The closest thing I have found is a lubrication guide chart that says the sprocket drive housing should have 2 pints of SAE-140. Is this area the sprocket drive housing or do I need to keep looking?

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This should help By the way all of this info is in a "servicemens guide" T-6 TD-6 TD-9

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Hmm I think you have a different version than the one I have. The one I have just says transmission housing. Is it safe to assume the oil that goes in the transmission is the same for the bevel? Also should I try to get that shaft out or put the extension back on and try to find a cap for it?

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Have you checked oil level in trans ?? Almost positive bevel/trans are common oil. I think the shaft is just stuck ,try tapping on the coupling

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Trans and bevel gear compartment are common sump. Dipstick near the gear shift lever. Gear oil 80-90 should be good.

Final drives are separate compartments.

Dennis

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Wow glad I haven't operated this guy to much. The oil in the transmission barley touched the dipstick. Thank you guys for all the information it has really helped.

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I apologize for the lack of progress in my part between going to the field and holidays I haven't done much. I got the shaft out and was amazed at the condition of the gears. They all look brand new ill get some pictures up in a few days. As for a PTO shaft I don't have anything other than that one shaft. I would love to get the entire PTO to Belt converter to include the PTO shroud that seals the oil into the rear. Does anyone know where I can find one?

Edit I R Schmart. I didn't see the salvage yard thread up till I posted, my bad.

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Wow glad I haven't operated this guy to much. The oil in the transmission barley touched the dipstick. Thank you guys for all the information it has really helped.

Kinda figured you were in the field for a bit there. Glad to see you are back with us.

Rick

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Okay here are the photos of the bevel housing after I got the shaft out. It just needed a few good tugs and it came out.

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These photos are the transmission. I haven’t removed the plate as I don’t see a need to.

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Like I said the gears look brand new so I have no plans of taking any of that apart. After piddling around at my fathers and grandfathers farms I got to looking at the rear end of their H's. I noticed their PTO units bolt pattern looked very similar to the one on the rear of my T-6 just smaller. A question I have is would the PTO unit on the back of an M fit on my T-6? I haven’t been able to find one in my area to take a close look at.

I have also made the decision that I will have the engine and header rebuilt. Inside each exhaust valve is Oil. Two leak to the point of oil running down the engine block. These pictures where taken after I removed and cleaned the baffle.

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Two worst valves.

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There is a technical university nearby that people can take their engines to for repairs. The drawback is a very slow turnaround time and students will be performing the work. I plan on giving them a call tomorrow and see if they are willing to take my engine. If not I will find a local mechanic.

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How are you figuring on installing your battery?

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I would go with the mechanic not the kids. Nothing against kids learning but you dont need to do this twice. Let them practice on something that doesn't have to work.

Regards,

Chris

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what was the de-rust formula you used?

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The battery sits on top of the left fender, the tray it sits on was rusted beyoned repair. I plan on taking it to a metal shop and have them fabricate a new one for me. For the de ruster I used "Metal Rescue". Belave the picrues on their website that stuff removes rust like crazy.

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Evaporust is another good one I have used. The Navy uses it to clean their engine blocks for rebuild. Nontoxiic, it won't damage non-ferrous metals and it works! I get it through Harbor Freight, but it is available elsewhere.

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

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Evaporust is another good one I have used. The Navy uses it to clean their engine blocks for rebuild. Nontoxiic, it won't damage non-ferrous metals and it works! I get it through Harbor Freight, but it is available elsewhere.

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Thanks,

I will get some and try it!

Regards,

Chris

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I have a t6 question

Will a farmall M oil pan fit my 1954 T6 crawler?

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Do you remember what color your powder coating guy used for the red on this Crawler??

trying to get a match here in Montana

Thanks

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Wow it’s been a while since I updated this sorry for the delay things have been a bit crazy here. The red they used for powder coating was a generic red they had. When I take the next batch of parts in for paint I’ll write the full name down. I will use an actual mechanic and plan on having it rebuilt with a few "tweaks". Before that can be done I need to stock pile parts. I ordered a new manifold http://www.steinertractor.com/IHS659-propane-manifold?&TF=517B63D8A8F2 because my old one was cracked.

To many times I have seen guys restore things and have stuff break on them a few months after. With that in mind I want to do a complete rebuild on this engine. I have found a few rebuild kits that look like they will work but wanted to confirm with you guys just to make sure.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-M_Engine-Overhaul-Kit-Comprehensive-with-Stepped-Head-Pistons_EOK1155A.html If I am reading this right that kit will rebuild both the engine and the header, is that a correct reading? I am also concerned with the stepped head or flat head selection. Is there a way to figure the out short of cracking the engine open? Same question for the bearing sizes, I see "Main journal diameter and crank pin diameter" but no bearing sizes.

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anyone have any leads for a guy that re-builds fuel pumps for these T-6 crawlers?? 12670891_1418125141547800_52461300895187

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Okay now that I am back from NTC I was able to get some more work done.

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My son is helping me get the cooling sensor our of the engine. (I dont know why but the manual says to remove it prior to pulling the engine.)

I found a fellow that will rebuild my engine for me while I am deployed only catch is I have to get it to him so let the games begine. My wife helped me pull the clutch cover off and I was pleasently surprised at how clean the inside is (remember almost every bolt I have taken off this guy was rusted 9 ways from Sunday and put up a fight along the lines of trying to give a cat a bath.) That said I have reached a conundrum. When I look at the cluch engagement shaft (big metal bar) I see three cotter keys. When I tried to remove them they wouldnt budge. Mind you I didnt want to damage anything so I didnt go all out to pull them off. Are these supposed to come off or is there a trick im not aware of that will allow me to slide the bar out while keeping the cotter keys in. Or do I need to drink three beers and get varius blunt objects?

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IMG_0593_zpspquwelip.jpg

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A sacrificial screwdriver , vice grips ,small hammer can all be helpful in removing "woodruff" half moon keys .

The temperature gauge/sender were originally a "mechanical" type , with the sender being permanently connected to the gauge

by a small copper tube with soldered connections , the fitting where it attached to the engine block was removeable .

Try these folks for your fuel pump needs http://then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/ (probably best to call)

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The 2 keys in the inside of the case can be difficult. Penetrant and light tapping on each end will loosen the rust bond, then take a cold chisel and tap out from each side till you can pry them out. Then push out the shafr out the lever side thru the hole in the sheetmetal, lift off the fork,being careful to catch the two bushings which fit over the ears of the throwout bearing. Take the shaft connector loose and pull the clutch assembly out the front with the engine. Jim.

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