Tanker916

1952 I/H T6 Crawler Project

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Tanker,

The '6' is looking real good! The modified grill make sit look like a variant of the series. Cant help you on the water pump leak. will have to default to the experts on that one. Headlights look awesome and the back light too! FYI my muffler sets direct on manifold no stand pipe. Not sure how they were from factory. I do have a picture. I like what you did with the coating of the muffler. Yea those final little things add up. The last 10% is the hardest. But man look what you have done already. You will get there soon.

Was good following your restoration work on the T6!

Regards,

 Chris

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The brass nut behind the driver is a packing nut. Yours looks a little different than on an original. It threads into the big nut that holds the bearing and the pulley on. Tighten the brass nut a LITTLE, like 1/8 turn and then run it to see if it stops the leak. If not turn it another 1/8. the inside of that brass nut is tapered and there is a water pump packing inside so it squeezes the packing down against the shaft. If that is a rebuilt pump then it was just put together snug on assembly so it needs to be tightened up until the leak stops. If it bottoms out then the nut can be taken off and more packing added.

George

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Along with what george posted , make sure that the water pump is greased prior to

adjusting packing nut ,  Prior to the common use of anti-freeze ,Water was usually allowed to leak

a little bit from the packing to keep it lubricated ,   Packing materials have changed over the

years (for the better?)    But will still burn up the shaft if over tightened.

 

 

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Made a vidio of all the pictures, first time ever making a vidio so please be gentle.

 

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Good job on the video.  Looks like the T6 was a great project for you and your whole family.  Can't believe you got it all done in a garage in a neighborhood.  I would have required much more space.  Now, what to do with your time?

Dennis

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Got the decals on it and took some pictures with the kids.  Also have a question the alternator used to put out 14.5 volts as soon as it spun now it takes a minute to get that high and the longer I run it the lower the voltage it puts out gets till it eventually falls below 12 volts.  The belt has some slack in it and when I shut it down the alternator is to hot to touch for even half a second.  Any idea whats going on?

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I spend my time plotting my next project, a 1953 Chevy 6400 that my grandpa has owned for all but 3 years of its life.  It spent every night in a shed and hasn't moved in 30 years.  Its name is Nellybell and I plan on using her to move the T6 around (I guess I should come up with a name for it...)

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I would start with tightening the alternator belt . Then check battery voltage before starting. If it is below 12.8 volts charge the battery before starting. If the voltage drops and the alternator heats it could have too much load on it.

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Guess I would approach it a little different like with a pressure washer! Great project truck and yes you need to start a thread for Nellybelle. "IH T6 Hauler".

( I know where there is a 1956 Ford F800 that I could get, just not sure I want need that big of a project?)

BTW the T6 tractor looks awesome! Great shot of the kids on and with it. You did a outstanding job bringing this back!

Really enjoyed the thread and it inspired me to do some work on the old TD6 too!

Regards,

 Chris

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@tanker

What did you use to bolt your rubber pads to steel grouser/track? 

 

Mike D 

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I used grade 8 bolts that were 2.5 inches long.  Had a large washer in the outside of the pad and lock washer with nut on the grouser. Would recommend you get the special nuts that are hard as **** to remove because I have already lost one bolt and have to retighten the others regularly.

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Great job, T6 looks great ! 

Looking forward to pics of your Chevy project .. 

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12 hours ago, Tanker916 said:

I used grade 8 bolts that were 2.5 inches long.  Had a large washer in the outside of the pad and lock washer with nut on the grouser. Would recommend you get the special nuts that are hard as **** to remove because I have already lost one bolt and have to retighten the others regularly.

Get all metal self locking nuts. Some people call them "stover nuts"

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5 hours ago, chip man said:

Get all metal self locking nuts. Some people call them "stover nuts"

Thanks guys 

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@tanker 

 

Can you snap a couple of pictures of close up finished product on the pads

 

Thanks! 

 

Mike D 

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Im currently at Fort Irwin for training, ill post some close ups when I get back home in a few weeks.

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As you requested below are some picks of my pads.  Best pointer I have is get the nuts that are had as **** to unscrew as the normal ones I have used require consitent retightning with minimul use.

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On 12/6/2017 at 7:55 PM, Tanker916 said:

As you requested below are some picks of my pads.  Best pointer I have is get the nuts that are had as **** to unscrew as the normal ones I have used require consitent retightning with minimul use.

IMG-2000.thumb.jpg.72ce0f686933d12c4f2fa828f9cb82d8.jpgIMG_0414.thumb.jpg.b04b948538f7fe29d349f4843ec3dabd.jpgIMG_0413.thumb.jpg.7860c02e3516a9c724c1fc3bafdd0e6b.jpgIMG_0416.thumb.jpg.e203353a99ad29bacd6991e220afb13b.jpg

Did you end up cha nging out nuts? 

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Stover nut

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I havn't gotten around to it, knowing my lazy behind I will probably wait for a pad to fall off before I pull the trigger.

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Tighten the alternator belt. 1/2in deflection in the longest span should be fine.

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Tanker,

So how is the Nellybell project progressing???:) Just checking! 

Regards,

 Chris

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