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1967806

71/7250 trans temp problems

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Been helping a friend the last few days try to finish up planting beans. Been running his 7250 on a case IH 330 turbo till and today it went to shut down mode on trans temp. It was after I had ran it in the field all morning then roaded it about 15 miles and then went back to work. Shut it down and let it cool for awhile and then it ran another half hour or so and done it again. In the process I discovered the fan clutch may not be doing its thing. Seemed like the fan was not turning as fast as it should for as hot as it was. Engine temp was crowding the red too. Had to gear back to keep it out of the red most of the day. So we unhooked it and went and got his 7150 and finished the field and on the way home it tried to shut down on trans temp too. I was crossing the highway a half mile from his house when it done it so I hit the over ride and kept going. Got to his house and shut it off and restarted it and light was off. Seems like it has something to do with roading them. They said the 7250 done it before when it was hot like today. They also put a new fan clutch in the 7150 previously. Seems like they both run a lot hotter than my 7130 does on the engine temp. My 7130 has a strap bolted to the clutch to lock it solid. Is this something case IH offered or is that something homemade by someone previously? Also, where is the trans temp sensor on the magnums? Also what temp does it set the light off at? It seems like the implement hoses are way cooler than the ones would be coming out of my 1466 after working all day. You would think a closed center system would run cooler. They took the 7250 to the dealer to get it fixed along with a couple other problems.

Any ideas anyone?

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First thing I would check is , pull off the sidepannels and unhook the cooler and swing it forward and blow it out. Our 7240 was getting hot running the hydraulic drive sprayer last year and despite looking clean from the sides the cooler had a build up of dust in the fins. The sensor is on the right at the top of the tall hydraulic filter housing. There is two sensors there and I forget which is which

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They cleaned the one on the 7250 night before last. Didn't make much difference. But swinging that cooler is kind of a joke. My 7130 wont hinge because of the way the lines are. Not sure why everyone cussed the foreword air flow on the 50 series. Could get to everything very easy. Magnums have way to much crap up front. Looks like they spent too much time making them like a Case. Then the weeds and stalks get sucked into the grille. Don't have that on my 5288.

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My vote is wash out the radiator and oil cooler out good with a hot water power washer , use a good degreasing soap after all the dirt is washed out . Like the other guys said those coolers are not fun to get out of the there but you need to remove the front grill just make sure you mark it so you get it back where it was .

Change your Hy Tran if it has not been done yet and new filters all from Case IH , the Hy Tran Ultra is a multi grade oil so this should help with the heating too.

Danny

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Bravo, another "Case-ism" on the Magnum I didn't care for.................Actually, with a radiator comb and good air, I don't seem to have any issue cleaning the radiator on the 88. One thing is for sure, it doesn't get half the dirt the magnum did drawing from where it does.

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Heres another vantage point, which may not be the case here,but some of these magnums have alot of fuel going to them and are pulling some big implements. We had a 7140 that would go, but it can only cool so much. The harder the pull and the faster you go, the hotter the trans. Temp gets. But like the others said clean the cooler. If you think the old boxcars are crowded up front, look at the 8000 series deere.

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My 7130 cooler and AC rad swing forward far enough for cleaning. Maybe it is a hose routing problem on some that restrict the swing. I've noticed my engine temp will push into the orange zone if I work it hard. Like this spring cultivating hard muddy ground. I find I need to blow the dust out of the rad and coolers fairly often. I have never seen a trans temp light on mine.

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We have 6 boxcars and one MX . We have had virtually no over heating problems with the combined hours over 70,000 on them all , we had one give trouble once . We have had a false alarm when a sensor was bad and saying that it was overheated but wasn't

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All these tractors are set at factory horsepower I presume. They barely had enough cooling when they are set right.

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I have 11 boxcars and 3 generation three MXs. Never had one overheat the hydraulic oil and we pull the snot out of them. None of them run HyTran, but they are running Mobil 424, which is also a multigrade oil. Im glad they didn't do forward flow. That was the perfect feature to nix after one series. I bet the fan clutch is a good guess. Could he have a high pressure internal oil leak? None of the remotes are stuck back or something weird?

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How are the brakes? If they take a couple of seconds to come on at a stop sign the plates are warped, that with the high speed of the 330 and 15 miles of road travel will cause the oil to get hot.

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My MX275 transmission runs 90 to 95 degrees over outside temperature when doing field work or running hydraulic sprayer. My dealer said that is normal. Just cleaned mine out yesterday, had some dust and seeds in it. None of the cooling systems seem oversized. You can bet the hard to get at spots on the coolers or radiator are dirty.

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I have 11 boxcars and 3 generation three MXs. Never had one overheat the hydraulic oil and we pull the snot out of them. None of them run HyTran, but they are running Mobil 424, which is also a multigrade oil. Im glad they didn't do forward flow. That was the perfect feature to nix after one series. I bet the fan clutch is a good guess. Could he have a high pressure internal oil leak? None of the remotes are stuck back or something weird?

Why do you not like the forward air flow? I think its better than the way everything else is. No remotes stuck. System doesn't sound like its on demand.

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I don't care so much which way the air flows, but the fan drive on 88 series was unreliable and well-hated. Never had a Magnum fan issue and I have a whole bunch with 10,000+ hrs. Unfortunately, the FPT engines on the newer Magnums uses CV joints. They're failing with less than 1000 hrs. We're sticking with 9.0L Cummins for a while.

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I had/have a trans heating problem on a 8910. I believe the brakes may be warped as in previous post. Make sure the brake pedals return all the way or you may have some friction building heat that way.

The only time I have trouble with this one is road travel speeds. I can use in field at field speeds for 4-5 hours per session and no problem.

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I don't care so much which way the air flows, but the fan drive on 88 series was unreliable and well-hated. Never had a Magnum fan issue and I have a whole bunch with 10,000+ hrs. Unfortunately, the FPT engines on the newer Magnums uses CV joints. They're failing with less than 1000 hrs. We're sticking with 9.0L Cummins for a while.

That fan shaft is 1000 dollars now too we found out last spring. Bolts in our drive hub broke and let the fan rub the tinwork. I thought I would replace the shaft until they told me how much it was. Decided to weld up the old one and grind it down. Reason the bolts broke was because some one else put grade 5 bolts in it. All the bolts in the fan pulley were different lengths too. The all got replaced with grade 8. But as far as cleaning the radiator and condenser and oil cooler on my 5288 I think its way easier than my 7130.

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