sugarmaker

TD6 Dozer/Loader

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Folks,

Adjusted the steering clutches. It helped a little. Seems to turn much better to the right when I pull the right lever and stomp on that brake. I actually pivoted right around a couple of times to the right. Going to the left not so good. You can get it to turn to the left, but better have a couple acres of room:)! Not sure that brake is grabbing as well as the right brake.

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Added taller stops for steering handles. Which brought the sticks closer. When all done still had to pull to far back towards the operator. May mean that the clutches are bad?

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Took covers off inspection areas. Found brake pads looked pretty good. At least there was something there about 1/4 inch thick. They may need adjusted too? Will have to look into that.

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ANy chance I can free up these clutches more?

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Our grandson Nic stoipped by, so I put him to work taking pictures. Yea thats me on the TD-6. These really are not very big machines. Very cozy in the cockpit!

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Had to try the steering out in the neighbors field. Opps sorry about that! Tried so smooth some of the big lumps:)

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I think its the state law that you have to push a tree over, and dig out some rocks, if you have a dozer! Made some nice ruts in the soft yard too. Found I had the steering clutches adjusted to tight as the dozer just stopped moving, neither fowrard or reverse. I thought the TD-6 was going to be lawn art! Then I decided to lossen both steering clutch turnbuckles and off we went again.

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Played in the mud a little.

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This is the diesel fuel line that was leaking. After removal found that the solder joint had failed at the ferrel.

Re-soldered this and fixed the leak issue. Little things make me feel like I have made some progress.

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Its the lower line in this picture.

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Trying to understand why the Run on gas lever wont snap over center? Looks like the bent end of the rod broke and was welded. Still not sure what needs to be done here? Have to keep holding this lever down while it runs on gas.

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It has a vertical spring and a bent rod behind the dash that look lkie they should be what keeps it over centrer? Tried the adjustment nuts but that did not seem to help. Well we can run it this way but it needs attention. If some one has pictures or anything from service manual. That would be great too.

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I did get a lot of the thick coating of greaes off the engine and components from that power washing. How do I check to see if there is enough oil in the pump?

Took the drains off the secondary and primary filters and a bunch of black stuff came out prior to cleaner deisel. Filters are on the list.

Regards,

Chris

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They are pretty compact but it will surprise you with what it can do. But usually when something stops it right off that's a pretty good sign you've reached it's limit.

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exSW,

Learning that too. The tree/ rocks stopped it pretty good. Made some good ruts in the yard. But was diggiing in:) Did more work (or destruction) in five miniutes than I could have done (or can fix) in five days.

Regards,

Chris

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This may help . The gizmos for holding over center are on the opposite side

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Kevin,

Thanks! By oppositre side I assume you mean oppisite side of engine? I will take a look at that. There is a lot going on in that gas to diesel change over system:)

Back on the steering clutches? Short of taking these out is there a good way to evaluate or improve the function? I know each unit is different. Guess I just need to understand the function and how they work better.

So when I pull back on the left lever, it compresses a big coil spring that opens all clutch pack? Is that correct? Guess I was wondering if there is rust in there that might break loose if used? I Read where appling load and or soaking the steering clutch pack in kerosene might help.

Being new to these machines I have a lot of questions. Thanks for all the help!

I also need to look at adjusting the brakes. Oh if I did use kerosene on the sterring clutches wouldnt that damage the brake pads?

Regards,

Chris

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Yes opposite side of engine (magneto/distributor) side, Yep on the steering clutches , Many folks have tried just about every

witchy poo/ snake oil formula out there to avoid taking the clutches apart , some have had a bit of luck , But the general consensus

is they have to come apart to be cleaned up , repaired, replaced, , I will say, make sure everything that is accessible, is lubed up,

is not excessively sloppy and is adjusted by the book , just to be certain it is not an external problem .

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Kevin,/ IH Folks

I agree with checking all the connections and joints and adjustments first too. I do need to do some lubing too! I must say that it steers better than it did. And I really think If I could get the left brake adjusted so it would stop the tractor, she would pivot good to the left also. My Uncle was a pretty good mechanic and my guess is he may have changed the steering clutches at least once in 60 years? Think I will look at those brakes a little more.

I did check the opposite side of the engine for the mechinisim of the gas throttle but couldnt run the lever and watch it at the same time. Need longer arms:) Did apply some PB Blaster to the joints. Still does not lock over center. More to do on that or just live with it.

Regards,

Chris

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Folks,

I got into the left brake adjustment tonight. The pedal seemed to go to rock solid to the floor.

I took the upper inspection cover off again. Per the book I freed up the front pin adjuster to bring it close to the outside of the brake shoe. 1/64 clearance between the pad and the drum. Well that was not going to be easy to measure so we made it reasonably close.

(I did find that the small return spring at the front adjustment pin was missing. I do not have one so add that to the list. It holds the brake shoe away from the drum a little.)

Then I started the tractor and backed it up on some blocks. (had trouble starting it on gas?) This was to get better access to the lower access covers.

Took the left one off, found a pint of water and about 1 inch of dirt and oil/ grease. Dug that stuff out and loosened the lock nut and then tightened up the brake shoe to 1/64 clearance at that point. Again a good guestimate. No room to get anything in there to measure. The brake drum had some score marks and had a lot of grease/oil.

Tightening this brake band as recommended made the left foot brake have some peda/l clearance from the floor. So that is better than it was.

I took the right cover off and will attempt to adjust that one tomorrow. Maybe this will help steer the old girl. We will see.

I hope to get some more mud on the tracks and move the root ball that old tree I pushed over.

I will try to take some pictures. But really looking up into that inspection port at the brakes was not for the timid:) Was really pretty nasty! I dont think it had been opened in maybe 20 years or more!

Regards,

Chris

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Folks,
Well I know just a little more about brakes on a antique dozer. I have a operators manual and a parts book with pictures for the old dozer. Both books are grease stained and well worn, but they have the good info on taking care of one of these machines.
The brakes:
As a reminder this machine has a ATECO loader frame that sticks up right where you get in the cockpit. Most of the brake work is then done by standing on the track frame and or the tracks and leaning down into the area that needs attention.
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Brake acess hole in floor board.
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Just big enough to get one hand in.
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View from leaning over into the cockpit.
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First adjustment is to move this pin in till it has the shoe (surprising there was still a good portion there) within 1/64 inch from the drum. So I removed this pin and nut. Got them freed up in the shop. applied never seize. I found a couple springs and proceeded to fight those into position for the next two hours.
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Spring installed
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Now the bottom under the belly of the beast. Access cover on left and right.

Shot of lower rollers while I was under there:)

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Lower inspection cover clean enough to be able to handle and put back on.
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The lower adjustment: Loosen lock nut above spring and then screw in bolt to tighten the bands against the drum. Again bring band to within 1/64 of drum! These bands had not been adjusted in several days. Like maybe 25 years??? So there was about a 1/4 inch of clearance between the drum and the band. Therefor saving the band! Yea it was not pretty in there!
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Also adjusted the brake pedals out as far as possible for my stretched 6-2 frame.
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We now had all kinds of brake action!
Fired her up and what a night and day difference. The brakes allow you to spin on a dime! And I could steer by pulling back the steering levers and applying just a little brake on same side. Now I can start to get the feel how this machine is supposed to work!
I took that tree root ball back to the woods and moved some boulders I dug out near the old tree. Even felt foxy and had the old girl in 3 gear.

I am going to adjust the steering clutch handles again and allow them to go forward more. I dont have room to pull them back past my legs! Just too close. Now that I see they actually work and the steering bands are not junk, I think I can live with them further ahead. They move maybe 16 inches of travel. I could actually steer to the left without using the brake. Maybe I have that brake too tight? Or maybe the right steering lever just needs tightend up a little more? Anyway, much improved and I do appreciate all the help and support from folks on RED POWER!

Pulled the dip stick in the trans. Good news it had something in there that was oily but looked more like peanutbutter? Put that on the list.
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I was also able to engage the starter from in the cockpit, so the clean up and lube of the likkages helped. And will be safer.

Powerwashed the mud off tracks and track frame. Should have parked it on some planks for the winter.

Thanks for taking a look.
Regards,
Chris

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Way to go !!! Excellent

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Ah!! The fun of play after some successful wrinching!!! :) Thanks for sharing with us!! Love the pics!!! :D Yes they are grungy!!!

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Woohoo!

There is never anything fun what goes on in those clutch compartments. <_<

I generally set the brakes by the "if my foot hits the dash, adjust it" technique.

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Woohoo!

There is never anything fun what goes on in those clutch compartments. <_<

I generally set the brakes by the "if my foot hits the dash, adjust it" technique.

M Diesel,

Now in hind site I can see you are right on! My foot was comming to a stop on the dash and the bands were not even close. I now believe that the steering clutches may be Ok if worked for a while. I mean I was spinning both tracks when I pushed that stump over.

Glad I listened to you guys about the adjustments.

Grungy? I wouldn't ask anyone else to crawl under one of these and take those inspection covers off. First when I loosened the bolts about a pint of water came out of each. Plus the grease and gunk up inside there! Grungy is not close! :)

Been studying the lubricatation info today. I have the bucket that was with the dozer for certain locations. Looks like UGL goes in that. I have to dig it out and look at the bucket. I have not greased this machine yet and its time! I assume all the other fitings are std zerks?

If I ever get to the electricals. Was considering changing the generator to a alternator and then changed to negitive ground? Any issues?

Regards,

Chris

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Negative ground is a lark. Almost nothing to it. Except probably need the kit to fix reverse and first gears being crossed.

If there is a bucket then it probably has something like 00 for the rollers. Rollers are super important to lube, and may require a special button fitting if your bucket piece is missing.

Technically you can repolarize the generator in about 30 seconds. I still go with alternator.

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I read through and congratulations, but I would definitely drop that "Peanut butter" ASAP.

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I never switched mine to neg ground. All it does is charge the battery (no lights). I did put a master disconnect on the battery.

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Congrats, it steers and brakes :-) you just avoided the most dreaded task of all time. Now, get that peanutbutter looking goo out asap and lube the rollers and then go play some more.

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Hello

Please advise if this is not the best place to post this.
I am a young farmer with a good amount of IH equipment including a IH 93 and 203 combines. IH 37 small square baler and other cultivators esc.
I really needed a dozer for back-filling at my Dads house around his new basement as well as fence-line work.
A few weeks ago I purchased a TD6 dozer with a Drott loader bucket.
It is a strange unit as a previous owner re-powered the unit with a rebuilt engine from a Farmall Super M tractor, The engine is an extremely tight fit in the dozers engine compartment, however it seems to run great and have plenty of power.
We had a little trouble loading the unit onto the trailer and damaged the engine oil-pan, the dozer is now safe in my yard and the oil-pan has been brazed and reinstalled. We have tightened up the tracks and the hydraulics, main clutch and steering clutch all seem to work good.
Our main issue and the subject of my inquiry is the transmission. Soon after getting the machine we have accidentally got it stuck into 3rd gear. We can move it and shake it but the only movement in the gear shift lever is the regular play in the shift lever linkage. I have not taken to pounding on it yet, so as not to wreck it.
This transmission is interesting as it has two reverse gears however the location is interesting as the Reverse 2 gear is where I would have expected the 4rth forward to be. Also my transmission has the shift lever to the right of my right knee when I am in the drivers seat.
We have started pulling the plate off the transmission but it is a very big untertaking.
Does anyone here have any advise or recomendations.
thanks
Avan

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Avandehei,

Welcome to the board and the IH community.!

A suggestion:

You should make a new post of this. You will get more responses and will be able to more clearly follow those that you get. It keeps things neater on the board to have one subject matter per thread.

Hope you get her all sorted out and having fun with her soon.

Dave

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Thanks Folks!

Het you lost me on something on rreversing the transmission switch??

I will move the peanut butter removal to the top of the list. I think I can get to this plug pretty easily. I believe it is near the back between the two inspection covers. I just played with. Page 33 of the preventive maintenance section of the book.

Book or something said drain it, and then fill to normal level with kerosene, run it around and then drain and fill with UGL Universal Gear Lube SAE 80. AND I should check the sprocket drive lube also while I am under there! Needs same lube in those.

Another observation:

I have water coming out of the starter band/cover when I crank it over. That must have been from over zelous power washing? I think I know what your going to tell me to do but is that any alternative than taking it off?

As usual more questions than anwsers:) Thanks guys!

Regards,

Chris

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Take the band off and let it drain and dry.

John

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This link is a great resource for all IH gas start diesels (especially crawlers) It was created

by one of our most esteemed members on the board , Published Author, TV Star,Winter freight Cat Skinner

and Ice Road trucker extraordinaire KOO (aka Joey Barnes ) King of Obsolete, Have fun checking his whole site out :)

http://www.kingofobsolete.ca/TD-6_TD-9_international_check_list.htm

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John, and Kevin,

Thanks for ths information on the TD-6 items.

I will let you know how I make out.

Regards,

Chris

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This link is a great resource for all IH gas start diesels (especially crawlers) It was created

by one of our most esteemed members on the board , Published Author, TV Star,Winter freight Cat Skinner

and Ice Road trucker extraordinaire KOO (aka Joey Barnes ) King of Obsolete, Have fun checking his whole site out :)

http://www.kingofobsolete.ca/TD-6_TD-9_international_check_list.htm

This site should B the first place you go after buying one of these machines.

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