sugarmaker

TD6 Dozer/Loader

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Adjust the brakes and clutches, makes a world of difference. The less busy you are the better,let the machine work. You will be s lot less tired when you get off. An old bucket seat without the track on the bottom will fit right in between the armrests.

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Adjust the brakes and clutches, makes a world of difference. The less busy you are the better,let the machine work. You will be s lot less tired when you get off. An old bucket seat without the track on the bottom will fit right in between the armrests.

Arm rests? We have no armrests:)

I have talked to the neighbor and he is going to haul the TD6 home for me.

Regards,

Chris

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Guys that commented about moving and steering these. Thank You very much!

I worked hours on old farm equipment, and definetly understand that these machines are not the joystick air conditioned rides of today. I just never ran a dirt mover, so I am not a good judge of what is the correct feel. But I really like monkeing with old equipment.

Here are pictures of the 1950 Allis WD's I have. These were owned by the same uncle that had the TD6. This WD was VERY worn out, but the engine was in pretty good shape. (ran good)

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This is a WD he owned also, Was my dad and moms prior. Just a well used tractor with a good running engine.

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Here are the same tractors.

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Picture of the TD6 cockpit.

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I did get the TD6 running again the other day. ( I had run it out of fuel. It gets a little easier each time. Put in 5 gallon of diesel, opened the top vent on the primary ( I think) filter, until fuel and air came out. Started the engine on gas, bled each of the injectors a little till the air bubbles stopped. And it ran ok on diesel in a minute or so.

Current starting technique is to stand next to the TD6 on the left hand side. Reach into the cockpit, check for neutral, check for clutch disengaged. Flip on the key, Pull the gas lever down, ( it does not stay locked?) Grab a 2 foot piece of pipe to use as a lever against the starter switch. (the starting feature, handle in the cockpit does not engage the starter properly) Engine starts up very well on gas. Let it run a minute for warm up, Slowly release gas lever with right hand while pulling the diesel handle forward.

I moved the machine a few feet and checked the steering clutches and brakes as I made a gentle u turn. Trying to get a better feel for the workings. We threw a track once I dont want to be to rough on it until I can check some of the track adjustments. And I know they are well worn at best.

Regards,

Chris

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Sounds like a little tinkering and lubrication could help the swapover linkage , spring loaded latches and gizmos

get a bit sticky if not used frequently, Absolutely nothing to it , As easy as your ABC's post-77390-0-60199900-1441629668.gif

post-77390-0-67785100-1441629388_thumb.j

Those are some beeeyoootifull WD's

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Kevin,

I think you hit it. Tinkering and lube! This machine has such a large ammount of dirt/ oil/ grease covering everything. On one hand it is a protective covering. On the other it may be impeading operation! Hope to get this home in a month. If it is closer to the tools it may get some attention.

I was considering taking the loader off and just havinging the cralwer unit any thoughts? There are many areas wher it has been repaired.

Anyone out there looking at TD6's????

Regards,

Chris

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Guys,

Some progress on the old TD6. Its home! My neighbor was so kind as to take his trailer over to my daughter and bring the dozer home. I had him load it. He had his hands full since he is used to stuff that actually responds:) He did a nice job loading and unloading it. I did get some pictures that I will be sharing in the next day or so. Made my first attempt at a repair before it got dark. I noticed a diesel fuel leak from going into the side of the engine. Had to make a custom tool from a old wrench but it seemed to stop the leak.

Since the machine will be outside this winter it will get tarped soon. Will give me some time to plan what I want to do with this unit.

It had not been started in several months, and I was suprized it fired up pretty easy.

Regards,

Chris

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Very cool. I suggest you try to find every manual you can for it. I just got lucky with my 1947 D4 7U Cat and found both the tractor and hydraulics operators, parts and repair manuals for it. It too is badly in need of a steering brake adjustment. I'm going to get the brakes adjusted and then tarp it for the winter too.

Rick

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Rick,

I have one tatered and worn operators manual.It has pretty good general descriptions but not too much detail. Way better than nothing at this time.

Regards,

Chris

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Thank you for the tip on the books.

Regards,

Chris

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Folks ,

I had to fire the TD6 up again and move it about 20 feet. It was just going to be too close to the sugarhouse when we get to plowing snow. Always amazed at how it fires up! I have tried several times to tighten up that leaking fuel fitting on the diesel going into the sediment bowl area. Just does not want to stop dripping. I assume the fuel is draining from the filters. Also now that I have power washed it, the charging system is not working:(

Hope things are good out there moving dirt!

Just read through all of stageone's posts on his restoration work just amazing!

Regards,

Chris

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Folks a bunch of pictures as this TD-6 gets moved home.

Any comments and or suggestions are more than welcome.

Neighbor gets the honors of loading and unloading.

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couple shots from the operators station.

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notice how well its charging. Not so much after a bath. That is probably the least of my worries.

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Hour meter. Which I have no clue if its working.

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Gear shifter area.

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more in next thread ran out of room.

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cont,

These pictures are not of very high quality, but at this time neither is the old TD-6!

TD-6 at rest

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cover/ shield must have had a rock fall on it? Pump is still working.

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light need some attention someday. again way down the list.

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Right side idler

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Right side drive sprocket.

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shield is pretty much toast.

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back view

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draw bar

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primary and secondary diesel filters. Note this was before I power washed the unit, so there is a lot of dirt and grease.

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Here is the leaking fuel fitting, right above the sediment bowl.

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picture of the starter. the worn notch in the side panel is from starting it with a piece of pipe as a lever against the cam of the starter switch.

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throttle linkage

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left idler and bent rock shield.

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left center cover.

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left rear sprocket.

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lower track rollers.

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hydraulic resivoir and control valves rear

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adjuster for track left side. These may need lots of attention??

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adjuster for track right side.

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carb side of engine.

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Thats it for now. Thanks for taking a look. I dont have a real plan for this machine at the time. Its been moved about 20 feet and is tarped. Spent some time reading thru the manual I have this morning.

Weather may get warmer next week and I may look at the steering clutch adjustments. I see blue silicone around the cover so Uncle Jack was in there within the last 10 years:)

Neighbor recommemds that I should strip off the loader frame work and hydraulics to get at the steering and brakes? Again comments are welome. Scrap is way down right now so its safe for the time being:)

Regards,

Chris

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Start hosing those adjusters with Kroil or something similar right now and repeat often, so that they will have a good soak before springtime. A 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works pretty good too.

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Rawleigh99 ,

Going to try to do that in next day or so, good suggestion. Right now everything is blowing sideways:)

Regards,

Chris

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Folks,

I need more feed back good or bad, scrap it or keep it comments!??? almost 6000 views and not many words! You folks must do less talk and more action?:)

I did untarp the TD-6 today and soaked the steering clutch lever adjusters. Got the four lock nuts loose and lengthened the rods. I lenghtened them maybe a inch or so. and shot them with a good dose of PB Blaster. The levers dont come back nearly as far. But I dont have a feel yet. I did not have time to start the machine so not sure if I made any improvement. Weather is turning sour so I may not be able to try the adjustments this weekend?

Book says I am going the wrong way, that i need the shorten the turnbuckle. So I may need to revisit that.

Also I noticed that I do not have any release springs on either side of the turn buckles. May try to find some right sized springs.

Currently the steering levers are falling all the way forward against the throttle lever.

Much much more to learn.

I did notice that the right frame rail looks like it had cracked and was welded and re-cracked behind the idler. Looks like the idle wheel is tiped towards the tractor at the top! Not a good thing. The track adjusters look like they are in bad shape. And the rails are very worn where the idler support castings fit.

Regards,

Chris

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Folks,

I need more feed back good or bad, scrap it or keep it comments!??? almost 6000 views and not many words! You folks must do less talk and more action? :)

I did untarp the TD-6 today and soaked the steering clutch lever adjusters. Got the four lock nuts loose and lengthened the rods. I lenghtened them maybe a inch or so. and shot them with a good dose of PB Blaster. The levers dont come back nearly as far. But I dont have a feel yet. I did not have time to start the machine so not sure if I made any improvement. Weather is turning sour so I may not be able to try the adjustments this weekend?

Book says I am going the wrong way, that i need the shorten the turnbuckle. So I may need to revisit that.

Also I noticed that I do not have any release springs on either side of the turn buckles. May try to find some right sized springs.

Currently the steering levers are falling all the way forward against the throttle lever.

Much much more to learn.

I did notice that the right frame rail looks like it had cracked and was welded and re-cracked behind the idler. Looks like the idle wheel is tiped towards the tractor at the top! Not a good thing. The track adjusters look like they are in bad shape. And the rails are very worn where the idler support castings fit.

Regards,

Chris

Nope just delver it here and I'll take care of getting rid of it for you!

Rick

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Thanks Rick!:) I will keep that in mind.

Off to play for the day.

Regards,

Chris

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You really want 6000 opinions?

My 2c-don't scrap it...

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Having had one of those things my suggestion is to fix one thing at a time. Like adjust the clutches,run it little while. Adjust the brakes run a little. Stick to things that don't cost money at first. Fix the easy leaks they can get expensive. I wouldn't scrap it. You can part it out on eBay if you have the time and more than get your money back.

Also,you can build those slack adjusters with a piece of proper sized all thread a lathe,a nut,small piece of plate and a welder. I may have gotten lucky on finding a piece of all thread that was speced pretty hard.

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That tipped idler may a problem. Probably kinda fixable. When not upright it lays the track down inside of the ordinary position, which means the rollers and sprocket have to push the track back out while standing on the track. Things wear fast that way. I have added some material between the idler slide and track frame rail to help bring things into align. There is a possibility the rail is twisted as well. You will have to sight that one.

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Ron,

Your right I dont need 6000 posts. :) I do appreciate the opinions and suggestions. OK I am not going to scrap it!

I was at a friends house and he had RFD show on with a lot of IH products at some show. Then they showed a TD-6 that was nice looking and that helped secure the fact that it may be around for a while:) That one was a 1944 and was very similar to the 52 model that I have. Just did not have the bucket/ or blade. They said in good working order they could pull a 4 bottom plow.

I agree with fixing little things and getting to know the tractor first. I am going to try to spend some time on it if the weather is good next week.

That right frame rail looks like it was cracked and welded. I think it may be able to be fixed/ repaired/ reinforced. well any thing can be fixed , given enough time and money. But with this machine setting out side and winter coming on It may not happen for a while.

Regards,

Chris

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That tipped idler may a problem. Probably kinda fixable. When not upright it lays the track down inside of the ordinary position, which means the rollers and sprocket have to push the track back out while standing on the track. Things wear fast that way. I have added some material between the idler slide and track frame rail to help bring things into align. There is a possibility the rail is twisted as well. You will have to sight that one.

Did you notice the difference in travel in the slack adjusters from the left to the right side. The sag in the left track as well. If he has or gets an old service manual it has the measurements and string lines to check it for alignment.

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Having had one of those things my suggestion is to fix one thing at a time. Like adjust the clutches,run it little while. Adjust the brakes run a little. Stick to things that don't cost money at first. Fix the easy leaks they can get expensive. I wouldn't scrap it. You can part it out on eBay if you have the time and more than get your money back.

Also,you can build those slack adjusters with a piece of proper sized all thread a lathe,a nut,small piece of plate and a welder. I may have gotten lucky on finding a piece of all thread that was speced pretty hard.

Good suggestion on the track adjusters. The threads dont look good at all. I do like to fab things so that is not out of the question.

Regards,

Chris

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Weather was very nice today! I did pick up a return spring for the steering lever. The hardware had only one:( And I guessed at the length and stiffness. I will try it when I get a chance and then adjust the clutchs if possible. What are the chances that Uncle Jack actually changed the dry clutches and they are just out of adjustment? Yea I doubt it too. My luck just doens't go that way on this old iron!

In regards to the under carraige:

I was going to also ask on the very worn and or broken right rail weldment. Is it possible to make these new? Or add gussets/ fish plates?

Also if the rollers are very bad or worn are there replacements available??

Just trying to get a idea of availability and or costs if I was to dive into this machine at some point.

Regards,

Chris

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