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Kevingweq

1967 Travelall More like it !!!

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And the radiator cleaned up for soldering

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Decided to remove ,inspect ,clean , and make sure the sending units were ok

on the dual gas tank setup ,Well if you remember the previous owner (i will call him Mr Green :) )

decided to cut out the seat bases and install bucket seats ,Yes he decided to use an abundance

of large sheet metal screws to hold the bucket seats in , Yep nice long sheet metal screws that went right

through the floor and into the top of the gas tank ,I guess I'm lucky he didn't weld them

So out comes the soldering torch after some cleaning and purging with water , I ran across a soldering tip

that said use old copper pennies to cover the hole and give the solder something to seal ,

worked very nicely

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After getting the tanks all cleaned up ,I treated them with some ospho and then

while I was down at the local hardware store I noticed cans of Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing spray Coating

So what the heck give it a shot , went on very nicely aside from covering everything for 20ft around with shiny glitter

Even the dog :) I will let you know how it holds up

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This was my first time ever soldering a gas tank and I was more than a little nervous about the fumes blowing up,

So I filled it completely with water , and then soldered it with it mostly full and the sender unit removed so fumes could escape,

Please be careful if anyone tries this type of repair

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Something was bothering me with the way the doors were lining up ,No matter how I adjusted them the body line gaps

were not satisfactory , I had replaced all the body mounts yet the front of the cab in the cowl area seemed to be sagging

too low , the pinch welds were touching the frame , I had thought about shimming the mounts ,which would cure the symptoms

but not the cause, I took a measuring stick and checked the distance between the lower frame rails ,Had approximately

28" everywhere except where the brackets for the front cab mounts attach which measured about 27 1/4 "

Decided a crossmember was in order to even things out . Lo and behold body lines are square and even, And the cab no longer

rests on the frame

This one shows how much leverage the brackets have on the frame and where I mounted the crossmember

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Another view ,As a bonus I had noticed before the spring shackles had a tilt to them ( thought it was bad bushings)

I may still have bad bushings but the shackles are straight now :)

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Got a quick question , My Travelall has a solid brake line running from the clutch master to the slave

cylinder --- No flexible line at all !! Is this correct ??? I have looked in the parts book and it shows a hose assembly

but it also says for "A" models only

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My 66 1200A is solid between the master and slave cylinder, Had a 63 c-900 that was also solid. Don't know if that is correct but that is how mine were set up.

Dennis

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Thanks for the input jingles :)

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It was time to do some rust prevention , tin knocking on the radiator support/grille surround

These are a common problem area on these round body trucks ,Here is what it looked like

After cutting the 56 spotwelds loose to get at it

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I have a question on painting and reassembling this piece , All the kinks are out of it ,rust areas treated,

and it is ready for primer and paint , Should I prime the 2 pieces then weld back together and then attempt to

shoot paint into all the nooks and crannies (kinda tricky I think) Or do I prime and paint both pieces then weld

and touch up ( repaint ) the whole assembly ?? Any pointers much appreciated , Bodywork very new to me

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You really found a winner in that truck.

Very little rust and no serious frame damage after all these years.

I have always wanted to try dipping the parts in good rust profing primer, there could/would be a lot of waste but the excess primer could be recovered and restored.

Wooden box with a plywood bottom built to size and lined with plastic sheeting.

Using mig/gas with no slag or better yet would be a spot welder you could weld it up and then dip.

Dipping would get primer and possibly paint into every crack and crevice.

However you attach the parts I would use good seam-sealer to keep rust at bay.

Good luck with your project.

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I knew that getting primer and paint into some areas of the radiator support would be near impossible

after welding the two halves back together , I am gonna try this way and see how it comes out

Primed both pieces with epoxy primer

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Then I painted just the insides of the two pieces with Urethane paint

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Now comes the fun part I have to weld these pieces together and clean up whatever gets burnt up

in the process ----sigh wish they was some super duper epoxy to glue em' together :)

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Then I painted just the insides of the two pieces with Urethane paint

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Now comes the fun part I have to weld these pieces together and clean up whatever gets burnt up

in the process ----sigh wish they was some super duper epoxy to glue em' together :)

Kevin, 3-m makes a panel adhesive that Is super strong. It says not to use it bonding structural parts but I have used it on panels and it works great. I got mine from www.autobodytoolmart.com . Look up their 3-m line of products. Stuff is pricy so it might be more economical to weld and repaint.

Project is looking great, might not want to take the shortcut with using the epoxy

Dennis

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I think that this radio is the right vintage for my 67 Travelall But what has me puzzled

is how does it mount into the dash ??? You will notice the faceplate has no screw holes

Was there more brackets or perhaps another faceplate behind this one that I need to find ??

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Does it use a the volume an tune knobs to mount( take them off and a threadded stud behind plate)?

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Bob , I think it would work that way if the radio was securely mounted somehow under the dash ??

That way the radio would just be holding the faceplate in position , instead of faceplate supporting the radio,

If that is the way it is supposed to be I need some kind of bracket(s) other than the one that is on the radio

I am thinking something like this ?? Maybe ??

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Finally got the grill surround welded back together , It was definitely a learning experience !!

the welding certainly messed with the paint and primer , But all in all it did not wreck it as bad as I was

imagining , prior to welding I just ran the spot weld drill in the holes kinda gently to clean them up ,

In retrospect I should of just used a smaller spot weld drill and cut new holes to weld and filled the others ,

Careful grinding and Super thin amounts of Bondo over the welds more primer and ready for paint ,

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Well I got around to painting the grill surround 3 times :angry:

I changed the thinner to a slower evaporating one on the last try and it came out really nice,

Now the rest of the truck is gonna take some time to get prepped for painting , I really just want

to drive it !!! Decisions, decisions The truck is still in one piece ,I bought this grill support

along with a few other things i needed (was a great deal when all was said and done )

I may drive it this year and see how all the driveline is performing and such , that way

if anything major needs to be done I wont be mussing up fresh paint , what do you think ??

wait on full paint job ???

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I know that I am not finished with underneath parts until AFTER the paint is on. <_<

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I had to do some tin knocking on my rocker that apparently met with a large foreign object ,

while I was poking around in that area I noticed that the piece of steel that makes the transition

from the back of the rocker to the curve of the wheel well was pretty far gone , At first I tried to

make a patch "free hand' with a hammer and dolly and vice ,pliers , etc, etc, basically it came out

like crap !!

So , Again I entered into the realm of the tool and die maker

What i wouldn't give for a water jet cutter :ph34r:

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At first the die wanted to shear the metal in the tight bends ,So I took BOBSIH advice on putting a radius on the dies

and it worked out very nice :)

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Then it dawned on me that the passenger side had a big deep scrape in the same area , I flipped

the female die over and made a mirror image for the other side :)

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A little trimming and fitting was in order , they are close but need a little more finessing :)

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Have a machine shop make a die for you then make a run of panels to sell online! Good work! I really enjoy your post.

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Bob' Thank you for the kind words , Funny you should mention selling some patch panels

A couple of guys over on Binder planet are interested already ! :)

I still need to fine tune the dies a bit , the 90 degree edges are a bit to tight on the wheel well,

and the height of the patch where it meets the rocker is a bit high , I would like to make it as

close to oem as possible , This outside patch is only the tip of the iceberg in this particular area

there is a rather complicated mess of tin behind it that strengthens the wheel well and caps off the

rocker , I am just now dissecting and thinking a bit on the reconstruction sequence.

I will say that IH was not shy when it came to using steel and plenty of it :)

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Took advantage of having the rocker box wide open , made it nice to squirt some "Eastwood " Internal frame coating

and at the same time be able to see how the spray gun and multi-direction spray tip worked ,

At first I tried to spray it straight up out of the can and it clogged the whole works up ,So after cleaning and flushing

I tried it with about 20% lacquer thinner and it worked out great , It took less than a minute to do the actual spraying

while using abut a half cup of product , It really covered every square inch :)

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