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Kevingweq

1967 Travelall More like it !!!

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Thank You Farmall, Excuse me while I wipe the drool off of my keyboard after looking at your pictures :wub:

I did some checking and the truck has Dana 44's front and rear, Gemmer steering box, New Process 202 transfer case(single lever)

and a IHC T-34 5spd with overdrive and 6.21 1st gear , The lineset code interpreting page is great , but only covers the driveline,

I wonder if their is an option code list out there ??

You need to start playing the lottery.That is a sweet truck.

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Thanx exSW , I rolled the dice and at least they didn't come up snake eyes :)

Well I spotted a burnt wire under the dash and started tracing it , ended up being the reverse light circuit

some of the wire was ok and other parts were cooked up pretty bad ,I probably could of just cut the ends and ran new wire

but that would of been on my mind constantly thinking it was going to burn up or catch a fire and really screw things up '

So here I am on the 4th of july Spaghetti anyone ???

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Does anybody know the paint color or code for the kind of tannish goldish interior color, (Dash and column) for the 67-68 travelalls ???

can't seem to find it anywhere

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I was trying to get that green spray paint off of all the dash parts ,Pretty much just ended up sanding and scraping

I watched a guy on youtube fix up his steering wheel that was cracked in the webs ,First I used a carbide bit and ground out the cracks ,

Used some JB weld to fill the cracks, some small files and sandpaper to smooth it out

came out decent ,

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And here is the dash pieces all primed up , No more green :)

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While I have the steering wheel off , noticed the top bushing was quite worn , also the turn signal switch

has a broken cam on it , when everything was apart I noticed the steering shaft seems to crowd to the right

It is not bent , just seems to not be in alignment with the column tube ,Do I have something out of whack ???

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I will be attempting to put the power steering system from "Krusty" the 68 parts travelall into

"Monty" my 67 travelall project , should this be a simple bolt in swap ??

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Removed the power steering pump and box from Krusty the 68 , And then the manual box and column from the 67

I was wondering if they would swap right over , In a word NO absolutely not, Everything is doable so far :)

The column on Monty the 67 was crowded off center because the steering box had cracked the frame between the bolt holes :(

They must of recognized they had a problem so they changed it for the 68 model, They put a couple of ripples in the frame

and put a strengthening plate (bolt in) inside the frame, They also changed from 3 bolt mount too 4 with 3 of them in different locations .

Got the frame welded,smoothed, drilled for the new mount , Oh by the way the column uses a slightly different mounting arrangement too

Frame after welding

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manual boxpost-77390-0-93786600-1405908107_thumb.j

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Krusty's frame showing the bracket that fits inside the frame

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Krustys power steering box and cast adapter

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Finished painting up the dash ,I used epoxy primer , and single stage urethane

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oooooo shiny

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you need to post this on IHPA and binder planet. you're doing it right

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Spent more than a little bit of spare time getting the dash back in one piece , As my friend Sean the bodyman says' " Hanging the jewelry on it "

My wife got me an Anniversary present , That NOS horn button in the middle of the steering wheel :)

What do you think of the Ivory paint on the wheel ?? Look OK ?? Few more loose ends to tie up but every light ,gauge, gizmo and gadget connected

to the dash is working ' including the auto shift column gear position indicator light , No auto trans yet though

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Here is a replacement turn signal /hazard switch made by Shee-Mar I priced them

at the usual sources and thought the $$$ was quite outrageous

I spoke to a fella at Classic Industries who researched it for me and discovered they

used an identical switch in Seagrave fire engines ,Much more reasonable pricing and 2 day delivery :)

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Cool about the switch.

Way too familiar with that turn signal problem myself. I bit the bullet and paid the price.

The only cable in my dash that moves is for the choke and it isn't connected. <_<

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Spending a little time cutting the rust holes from the floor and patching them,

Felt a bit creative and was trying to figure out how to copy the strengthening ribs (or whatever they are called )

The floors are very thick on these old girl's ,I scrounged up some steel that matched perfectly

Came up with a fairly simple solution

This is the indent I was trying to replicate

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I welded 2 pieces of 3/16 steel to the plate steel workbench about the same distance apart

as the width of the indent , then made a "die" out of another piece of 3/16

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Then got my 10 ton hydraulic C-clamp to squeeze the die and a piece of 1/2 plate at the same time

to form the indent

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Seemed to work pretty easily , 10 ton probably not needed

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Here it is next to the factory indent ,should be ok :)

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Nicely done! I would think those to be flutes or pleats or something? Who knows, it is late and I'm guessing.

Would think them to be originally done with a roller clamp?

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Nice job with the stamping work. Just a thought I cant really tell from the picture did you put a radius on your die so not to have sharp bends in your sheet metal? Sharp corners tend to crack.

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M D I really don't know how the factory accomplished the indents , maybe built into the big floor pan die ??

Or maybe some type of rolling die like you said , Maybe one of our resident experts will chime in

Bob , I did not put a radius on the corners ,But I did increase the gap for the sheet metal to bend into ,

One thing I will try differently is somehow get the moving die to stay rigid and centered in between the mounted die ( not sure what to call them )

Boy until you try something like this you don't realize all the variables to die stamping and forming quite interesting

My hats off to anyone that does it for a living :)

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Tool and die man earns his living eh! Small airplanes are full of this kinda stuff.

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i think the way the bed was made in my terra was a big stamp press. like the negative was made out of a hard metal die. and you would slide an 8x4 sheet in. stamp it. cut it. weld it. drink a beer. protest. and start over. who knows. i do love stuff like that though. you're doing high quality work me thinks

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M D I really don't know how the factory accomplished the indents , maybe built into the big floor pan die ??

Or maybe some type of rolling die like you said , Maybe one of our resident experts will chime in

Bob , I did not put a radius on the corners ,But I did increase the gap for the sheet metal to bend into ,

One thing I will try differently is somehow get the moving die to stay rigid and centered in between the mounted die ( not sure what to call them )

Boy until you try something like this you don't realize all the variables to die stamping and forming quite interesting

My hats off to anyone that does it for a living :)

Make an upper and lower plate weld the forming dies to the plates then use guide pins to slide the upper plate on. Thats how the big ones operate. Never worked at a stamping facility but worked with them.

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The floors are back in one piece again ,After welding in the patches I sealed the welds with seam sealer ,primed and painted them

Thanks to a gracious member of Binder Planet I was able to acquire some seat bases ( someone removed mine to install bucket seats,

the ones I got needed a little repair and had to be welded into place

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I had napa mix up a couple of spray cans of IH turquoise paint , I only painted the worked on areas

and the seat bases I think they did a great job of matching the color :)

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couple more

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Was tinkering with the throttle linkage and decided to take a closer look at the 4 bbl manifold on

the 345 that resides under the hood , I am wondering if the manifold came on the engine from the

factory , And if not what did it come from ???

Also the belts on the alternator pulley seem to sit kinda deep in the groove , Yet fit fine in the water pump grooves

Casting / part # on manifold 151539R3

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Alternator pulley

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its the wrong pulley. not a huge deal. outcome is the same. mine has a dual pully setup. as long as it iant binding i wouldnt panic. the manifold may have come off a 392 if yours originally came with a 2bbl or maybe the original cracked. hard to tell now after 50 years lol

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I ended up replacing radiator hoses and the petrified heater hoses ,and the block freeze plugs , Well anyhow filled

her up with water and put the pressure tester on and pumped it up to about 14-15 lbs of pressure, Noticed my freshly

made thermostat housing gasket was weeping ok no big deal , then noticed the puddle forming under the passenger

side , YEP right under the heater box ,So out it comes for a look see , The heater core is leaking at one of the tubes

where hose connects ,but all in all the core is in fantastic shape , Thank goodness !!! Because I don't think they are to common

I found my soft flame acetylene torch and got the core fixed right up :) And soldered the mount brackets onto the sides

of the radiator too , Sure is nice to have the right torch

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