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SeattleIHAddict

Torque settings for engine bolts?

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Hi again Farmall Family. I keep reading that I need to make sure torque settings are correct when I reinstall the head of my Farmall 560 gasoline 6 cylinder engine. I don't have any fancy equipment or anything...how do I know how much to tighten them down and what can I use to test it? I have a decent toolkit with several socket sets. Any advice?

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Go buy, or rent a torque wench for that, its like a long handle ratchet that you dial in the amount of torque, it will ''click'' when you reach the setting,which is around 90 lbs. Also don't just start tightening down the head bolts, there is a pattern, (sequence) to do it in, and at least to stages of torque, three would be better. i don't have the spec.s in front of me but its about about 1/2 or less the recommended torque on the first pass. I always go over them again after the final pass and make sure they are all tight and i didn't miss one. Pick up a feeler gauge too adjust the valve lash. If you have more questions, post it on this same topic thread so I will see it and not have to jump around to follow your progress

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As Eric mentioned, the 560 engine manual says 85 to 95 lb-ft for the C-263 gas engine head bolt torque. You will need a 1/2-in drive torque wrench to do this properly, preferably a click-type, get one for your tool set.

There are some prep things you will want to do:

Looking at your photos, seems that the old headgasket is still on the block, assume you have removed it and cleaned up the block (and cylinder head) surfaces as best possible, in preparation for a new head gasket.

Also have you cleaned the bolt holes/threads in the block? It is necessary to clean out crud in there which can prevent proper torquing of the head bolts. This is usually done with a tap followed by some cleaning, if you are not familiar using a tap, chime in and someone can coach you.

Clean your head bolts, particularly the threads need to be free of crud for same reason above. Wire brush or a die (complement to a tap) is indicated here, to get the threads clean down to metal. Inspect the bolt threads to be sure there are no stripped, missing, or damaged threads. There should be no stretched, bent, cracked, or otherwise deformed bolts, compare the bolts against one another to see.

Before the head goes back on, the head bolts need to be check-fitted in the block to be sure they thread down freely and more than far enough to clamp the head. Can expand on that concept if you need.

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yeppers , just like IL_IH said, also use some light oil on the head bolt threads. its just like painting, 90% of it is the prep work!

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One half turn before breaking is just right. If you can't calibrate your arm buy a totque wrench.

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Hi all

I like copper coat for head gaskets. That's because i'm old and that's what dad did. I use aviation seal on the part to be bolted on. It makes clean up easy the next time. Get a torque spec's for bolts from your machine shop. and torque all your nut's and bolt's. After a while you will know how tight they should be .you would not believe how many problems over tightening does.

Hope this help's

Have fun with your toy's

Tuscarora trader

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Greetings friends. Thanks for the feedback as always. I just bought a Proto Torque wrench from a guy off Craigslist. I'm excited that I've got a four day weekend starting tomorrow night!! Gonna work all weekend on my 560. Regarding gaskets, I'm seeing prices all over for the head gasket set for $70-200. They all look identical. Any reason why I should not get the cheaper set? The guy at the Case-IH shop said they are probably from the same source he thinks. Any thoughts? Also, I'm going to post a question about head prep to get the area ready. I'm all ears and ready to learn if you have any feedback. Thanks much.

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Looks like you can pull down a head gasket online for about $75, that's for a Victor Reinz (Clevite) head gasket set, which is alright in my book. So think you got quoted high at $200. A head gasket set will include the head gasket but also the smaller gaskets needed for thermostat, valve cover, etc.

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up dates??????

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Hello all...quick update on my project. I ordered all the parts and they finally got here yesterday after backorder. I took everyone's advice and took off the old head gasket, cleaned with good with a wire brush and got it cleaned out inside the piston chambers too. Vacuumed everything out inside and out. I think i'm ready to start putting it back together. Looks like the gasket set I bought came with a ton of misc gaskets. I'm actually not sure what most of them are now. I'll do some research and may as well put them all in while I'm in there. Any misc advice other than the great stuff you've all given me already?? :) Thanks everyone.

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take your time and think, keep it clean, don't leave any gasket pieces, roll the engine over with a screwdriver at the flywheel 2 or 3 times before you hit the starter, to make sure nothing is binding,and don't twist any bolts off, :P. seriously till you get the feel of twisting wrenches, a good rule of thumb is, bolts using a 5/8 socket size and down, use a 3/8 drive ratchet, bolts using 1/2 or smaller socket are real easy to twist off. Hears another good tip for next time, put bolts from different places in separate zip lock bags and write on the bag where they go, when its time to go back its much easier to keep up with which bolts went where, and you will not have any weed bolts left over, good luck and have fun

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Eric Farley thanks for the fantastic advice. do you know what the small bolt with a square head coming off the intake manifold is for? just below the pin dowel where the thermostat heat control valve is? it seems to be a different size than the old manifold is. its about a half inch long and is not in the parts manual i have.

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not sure, can you post a pic? i would have to go out tomorrow and look. Hows the project coming?

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yep, pipe plug, i looked at the parts book, its sub listed with the manifold

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It appears the new manifold has a larger sized pipe plug hole. Does it have to be the square one or will a regular short bolt work? I assume the later. Also, what could I learn from it? Owen, you mention "vacuum". Should I be testing something to ensure its "accurate vacuum pressure"?

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You can get pipe plugs of the proper size at the local hardware/plumbing supply, they have a tapered thread so they seal up as you tighten them,

Don't worry about vacuum just yet , after you get it running , you may or may not have to utilize a vacuum gauge ,

Normally vacuum gauges are used in diagnosing engine problems

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