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Mark from WI

?'s about 300

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Had the valve cover off last summer and noticed some sludge build up around the top of the head. Tractor runs fine should I clean it off or leave it alone? What should I clean it with? Also is there a little hotter spark plug to put in it? Right now it has Autolite 388 in it. Wanna little extra juice tractor pulling this summer! :D Also wondering if you can take the "tappet cover" off by the distributor and hydraulic pump off with our taking the the distributor and pump off?

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I'm gonna scrape off what I can but is there something I can put in the engine and run it for a while to clean it up better?

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I'm gonna scrape off what I can but is there something I can put in the engine and run it for a while to clean it up better?

SEAFOAM, but I wouldn't do it! All that sludge may be what is keeping the 50 year old seals from leaking. An oil change on a periodic basis would do as much good as anything. Modern oils have detergents that were unheard of when your 300 was new.

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MARK - I'm not sure what DAD was using for motor oil in his M the last few years but I switched it over to Rotella 15W-40, and it was surprising the amount of sludge it got out of the engine the first couple oil changes. Had the same thing happen when I switched the Super H over to Rotella too. You might try that.

Can't help you on the tappet cover removal, I've never had one off.

I checked to see what Autolite recommended for the Champion plugs I know work in IH engines. Their number 386 is recommended for both the D16 & D21 plug. The D16 was the OEM plug when the letter & early number series was new, the D21 plug was the hottest plug available. Champion came out with Extended reach plugs for the IH gas engines, the D-15Y & D-18-Y, which improved performance by getting the spark closer to the center of the combustion chamber, the Autolite 3116 replaces both of those style Champion plugs. I find it hard to imagine one Autolite plug replacing two such different Champion plugs but I guess it's possible. Both the 386 & 388 plugs are resistor plugs, good for radio reception but not sure it's what you want for pulling. The 3116 is a non-resistor plug which I think would be better for a performance application in an IH engine. I would think a high voltage coil or Pertonix ignition kit would improve performance, but hotter plugs, not so much. I think it was Randy Hall who said installing a Pertonix ignition on one of his pullers gained him 3 to 5 HP on a dyno. On a 300 that would be a huge!

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MARK - I'm not sure what DAD was using for motor oil in his M the last few years but I switched it over to Rotella 15W-40, and it was surprising the amount of sludge it got out of the engine the first couple oil changes. Had the same thing happen when I switched the Super H over to Rotella too. You might try that.

Can't help you on the tappet cover removal, I've never had one off.

I checked to see what Autolite recommended for the Champion plugs I know work in IH engines. Their number 386 is recommended for both the D16 & D21 plug. The D16 was the OEM plug when the letter & early number series was new, the D21 plug was the hottest plug available. Champion came out with Extended reach plugs for the IH gas engines, the D-15Y & D-18-Y, which improved performance by getting the spark closer to the center of the combustion chamber, the Autolite 3116 replaces both of those style Champion plugs. I find it hard to imagine one Autolite plug replacing two such different Champion plugs but I guess it's possible. Both the 386 & 388 plugs are resistor plugs, good for radio reception but not sure it's what you want for pulling. The 3116 is a non-resistor plug which I think would be better for a performance application in an IH engine. I would think a high voltage coil or Pertonix ignition kit would improve performance, but hotter plugs, not so much. I think it was Randy Hall who said installing a Pertonix ignition on one of his pullers gained him 3 to 5 HP on a dyno. On a 300 that would be a huge!

I switched it over the last time I changed the oil to 15W-40. I took the valve cover off tonight and noticed that there wasn't as much sludge as there was last summer! Maybe I'll just leave well enough alone and see what happens! I'm thinking I should pull the oil pan and see how much sludge is in there and clean it out.

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All assuming the engine is in good/great condition to start with

If we are talking the same thing that is the water diffuser much easier to remove most other items it;s 3" thick

if you are pulling you will want good circulation and should check it and 90% chance it needs replaced as the fins will be gone

also if pulling I would have pan preped for quick removal work it till hot

drop the pan replace with large sludge bucket wash 3-5 gal of kerosene down thru top use stiff brush scraper etc

get all the big stuff out,it's been there 50 years and heavy detergent oils (can) wash it out too quickly

use a squirt bottle wash all the as/is internals down flushing all the heavy lumps out

let set several hours use some 20w (lite) oil in squirt bottle lube all internals good

reassemble/new oil (cheap oil ;) ) /etc start, making sure prime was not lost and pressure goes up immediatly

work till hot several days 2-5 hours

repeat

put in the good oil check/and or change after another work out then watch first several runs till it stays fairly clean

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