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Ron Cook

picked up a nice 560 plow today

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I got a nice old 560 moldboard plow that has mostly been stored inside. It is 6-16s and the old 1566 has 20.8's on it. Not sure how that is going to work out. Up on the land would be fine, but this plow is not set up that way. At least it is something to play with. I have never plowed with one of these, so learning will be in order. I understand they are not the most desirable plow, but this one is in such nice shape and the price was right.

Ron

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what is your concern, that the 3 point wont go down far enough or the tire wont fit in the furrow?

used to have a 1066 with 20.8 tires and a 700 semi-mounted 5-16 plow, and later a 700 trailer plow. the 3 pt. going down far enough was never a problem and as far as the tire fitting in the furrow it wont be a problem. the rims on my 1066 were widened out to 22 inches , sure made a flat faced tire because the beads were actually wider the face.

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The 20.8's in a 16 inch furrow won't be a problem. Years ago EVERYBODY around home ran 18.4's in 14 inch furrows. Unless you hug the furrow wall tight you may see where the furrow tire packs the plowed ground a bit, but running a bit faster throws the dirt far enough to cover it up.

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I was concerned about the tire fitting in the furrow. I didn't think about the 3-point not going down far enough, but I really didn't think about that issue. The only "large" plow I ever used was 5-16 pull type, and pulled with at D-4 Cat or a 60 & 70 Deere in a tandem setup. All pulled on the land, not in the furrow.

Ron

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As Takn4aFool and the good Dr. Evil have stated the 20.8 tires are not the problem you think they are in a 16" furrow. Yes you will be mashing down the fresh plowed ground right next to the furrow. But as the Doctor prescribed run a little faster and cover it over and no one will ever know. A cousin of mine ran a 1456 with 20.8's in a 16" furrow for years. At this point in time any old plow of that size is valuable. Some like the 700, 710 and 720 series are alot more popular because of the availability of the automatic reset bottoms. The 720 is an almost plug proof plow in corn stalks compaired to most any other plow. But in an area that isn't bothered with a lot of rock that 560 will do a good job of turning ground.

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You fellows make me feel good about my purchase. There are no rocks around here, but there are lots of corn stalks and I gathered by the conversations that the 560 would plug more than others. Just have to do something with the stalks first. Chop or disk.

Any suggestions as to how much weight to put on the front of the 1566 with this plow? I don't have any as of yet. The tractor was not sold with the weights, just the rack.

Ron

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Get it set up right and you wont have any problems in corn ground. we have a plow day here every fall and all we do is corn ground. i used a #412 behind my 450LP and did a great job. trick with corn is getting GOOD coulters and getting them set right. you wanna cut the trash, not roll over it or push it

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I tried some plastic coverboards out this year, and after running steel for years I have to say I am sold on the plastic.............I sure think that slick surface eliminated all the plugging issues I would have had. Plowed some decent yeilding corn under, and I thought for sure it was plugged a few times but once the clump got big enough the cover board just threw it over and it was buried.

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You shouldn't have any if not to many problems if you have your coulter set right and the plow is scoured good . We had a 560 plow semi and trailer 6-16s and hardly ever had plugging problems unless stalks are wet or tuff. So don't get in a hurry first thing in the morning let the sun dry things out a bit.

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The plow has a very good set of coulters on it. It will take a little to get it scouring. It was shedded all its life until the last year and it sat outside with nothing on the moldboards. Of course they got rusty. No pits, just rusty. I won't have anyplace to plow with it until fall. I need to do something to the moldboards before then but I am not sure what.

Ron

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I've got a 560 6-16 plow and i use it with my 1566 with 20.8-38 works just fine. Once you get it adjusted just right you'll be a plowin fool.

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A 60 grit flap disc on a 4 1/2" grinder works great cleaning rust off... :) ...PWR

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Since our "all summer flood" last year there is plenty of sand around. I just don't have any available to go plow in. I know that would work. The flap disc might be a very good alternative for now. I would like to get the thing cleaned up and then protected. No sense in leaving it so long it gets pitted.

I like hearing of the 20.8 tires and and the 6-16 working so good. Hopefully by fall I will have the 1566 up in shape to try the plowing. Sounds like fun. Believe it or not, I have not done any plowing to amount to beans since before this 560 plow was new!

Ron

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Another approach mentioned in the past is to use paint. It provides a slick surface for a while and gradually wears away to bare metal.

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I got the No. 560 unloaded and grabbed a couple photos. A no-till neighbor parked his planter here just after dark last night before getting rained out. He said he thought I had too much plow for the tractor. I played dumb for awhile and then he caught on. The gas 4020 was just for parking purposes. :D

post-51479-0-30785000-1335974648_thumb.j

post-51479-0-40696400-1335974663_thumb.j

post-51479-0-19796100-1335974676_thumb.j

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A 60 grit flap disc on a 4 1/2" grinder works great cleaning rust off... :) ...PWR

Old timers always claimed a brick worked good for scouring moleboards but I would prefer something like the flap disc or a "roto-loc" on a 1/4" die grinder. We always paint our moleboards with CIH's "Til-coat" paint to prevent rusting. Next time you use the plow the paint will be gone by the time you get to the far end of the field.

Years ago I had a 560 x14" plow. I replaced the steel trash boards with the plastic ones . Wouldn't go back to the steel .

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I got a manual for the plow today and I see there is a part call the "Vertical Limiter" that I did not get with the plow. The manual says to remove the center link of a 3-point, so apparently it must operate differently. Once the dimension is established, is that limiter a solid piece or does it telescope in use? I do not know where to obtain the part, but if I knew how it worked I could probably make one. Or find something that would work. Any ideas?

Ron

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Oh heck those moldboards aren't even rusty. They'll shine right up on the first pass.

I think you are right, but it would sort of depend on the length of the first pass. :) There actually is a little bit of grease left on some parts of some of the shares.

Ron

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I got a manual for the plow today and I see there is a part call the "Vertical Limiter" that I did not get with the plow. The manual says to remove the center link of a 3-point, so apparently it must operate differently. Once the dimension is established, is that limiter a solid piece or does it telescope in use? I do not know where to obtain the part, but if I knew how it worked I could probably make one. Or find something that would work. Any ideas?

Ron

I studied things a little, and if I understand correctly, I should be able to make this limiter out of an aftermarket top link. I also looked in the CIH parts catalog on line for the part numbers for the limiter. I have not checked to see if they are available from CIH. I assume some later model plows use the same thing.

Ron

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Ron: Barbecue black will also work well for painting them. It stays soft. Plow paint is hard to find around here now.

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I got a manual for the plow today and I see there is a part call the "Vertical Limiter" that I did not get with the plow. The manual says to remove the center link of a 3-point, so apparently it must operate differently. Once the dimension is established, is that limiter a solid piece or does it telescope in use? I do not know where to obtain the part, but if I knew how it worked I could probably make one. Or find something that would work. Any ideas?

Ron

I studied things a little, and if I understand correctly, I should be able to make this limiter out of an aftermarket top link. I also looked in the CIH parts catalog on line for the part numbers for the limiter. I have not checked to see if they are available from CIH. I assume some later model plows use the same thing.

Ron

Ron,

You don't need that "limiter".

There were a LOT of those plows sold back when and many of them are still in use today (we have a 540 and a 550) and I have never once even seen one of those limiters that are shown in the manual.

-FT

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My Dad has one of the limiters for the 3rd link that he bought on a bale rack at a farm auction. He bought it because it was different. Said he didn't remember anyone actually ever using one.

And to answer your question it is not solid like a 3rd link. It telescopes or compresses. I think the thought is to prevent the front end from coming up to far.

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