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succor

282 head gasket

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Got a 282 with supposedly lower hours on rebuild from many years ago from previous owner so he says. But anyway, it's been runnin good and has never failed me since ownin it for about a year. I got around to cleanin some of the grease off the oil filter side one day late last fall and noticed just behind the oil filter where the head gasket is, it was bubblin air I think. I didn't notice fluids comin out. Like I said, the motor runs good but I'm guessin early signs of head gasket?? Haven't ran the tractor at all this winter for snow removal as THERE IS NONE! Mild here in Saskatchewan!

Always love the forums!

Cory

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maybe you could check the head bolt torque and tighten the leak up?

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From my experience with a 282 in a Farmall 560 that is where the headgasket starts leaking. I suspect you have a head gasket replacement coming up soon. They are not a hard one to change out.

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Should I have the head gone through if I remove it even though it's runnin good? If so what would a cost figure be so I can compare.

Cory

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Should I have the head gone through if I remove it even though it's runnin good? If so what would a cost figure be so I can compare.

Cory

Last head I did ran around 550 US. It was pretty tired, but ought to be good for another few decades now. Tanked, crack checked, surfaced, all new vales, seats, guides, springs. Since the head will be off, take it to a good machine shop to clean and crack check carefully. 282D heads are known for cracking, so invest just a little to get an opinion, before committing any work.

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Should I have the head gone through if I remove it even though it's runnin good? If so what would a cost figure be so I can compare.

Cory

Always.

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It depends totally on the condition of the head. I have cleaned up many heads and done no repairs except new valve seals if used. But, those engines are noted for head gasket problems so you will probably find some pitting and a need to resurface. Thing is, the worst thing you can do to a diesel engine is to give it a valve job if it does not need it. The seats may look pitted but they will again in a 100 hours. Heck, even on Nebraska tests, they pulled the head on one model IH and reported valve seat pitting and IH sent out letters quickly to inform (test readers) that this was normal. Guess what I am saying is it takes someone with an experienced eye to tell you if it needs repairs. Your call.

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It depends totally on the condition of the head. I have cleaned up many heads and done no repairs except new valve seals if used. But, those engines are noted for head gasket problems so you will probably find some pitting and a need to resurface. Thing is, the worst thing you can do to a diesel engine is to give it a valve job if it does not need it. The seats may look pitted but they will again in a 100 hours. Heck, even on Nebraska tests, they pulled the head on one model IH and reported valve seat pitting and IH sent out letters quickly to inform (test readers) that this was normal. Guess what I am saying is it takes someone with an experienced eye to tell you if it needs repairs. Your call.

So you shouldn't even lap the valves if the head is off? When I said always I was thinking about pressure check and check to make sure it is flat.

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Oh, I have no problem with lapping them in to clean up the seats a little as that would not remove enough material to be measured. I think I did indicate though that there would be a good chance the 282 engine would have some pitting on the head surface and might require resurfacing. All depends on where it is. Far as pressure testing, I am not convinced that is really done well at a lot of machine shops. A good looking over and magnaflux, ok, or what ever the latest and greatest methods they have available. I would actually be more interested in the sleeve flange height over the block.

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I follow. My shop actually does both to pressure test them. I think I trust them. The owner actually restores tractors himself.

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Keep the comments rollin fella's, it's great because it educates me in what I have to do with the head when I get to that point. This includes finding a reputable mechanic way up here in Saskatchewan, Canada. Kinda wish I was closer to get some reputable comments for a good mechanic but I got to start somewhere! Now, just ignore my ignorance for a second but magnafluxing deals with the cracks on the head correct? Also, pitting; is this just crap that builds up on the surface of the head that needs to be machined? Same with the valves?

Cory

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Sleeve stand out in critical on those engines thats what seals the cylinder and prevents compression pressure from blowing the head gasket

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There is no way I would reinstall a 282 head without having it checked for cracks first.

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Looks like I need to remove the head gasket or at least check torques spec cause I cleaned off more old grease, had it runnin to dry it off after and watched in behind the oil filter side close to the battery and noticed several pin hole bubbles along the gasket. However, it looks like the back cover and fuel tank have to me moved out of the way also to get full clearance of the motor, even the cab seems to be in the way. Is this true to remove all this or is there a trick without pullin the gas tank; just gettin some heads up on this.

Thanks

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Looks like I need to remove the head gasket or at least check torques spec cause I cleaned off more old grease, had it runnin to dry it off after and watched in behind the oil filter side close to the battery and noticed several pin hole bubbles along the gasket. However, it looks like the back cover and fuel tank have to me moved out of the way also to get full clearance of the motor, even the cab seems to be in the way. Is this true to remove all this or is there a trick without pullin the gas tank; just gettin some heads up on this.

Thanks

Not sure you mentioned, what type & model machine is this engine in? Someone may know a shortcut.

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If you have the right equipment the easiest is to split the tractor to remove the head. Otherwise you can do it by removing the heat shield under the fuel tank. You will need six clothes pins to hold the back push rods up in the head since they will not come out. You will need to remove them after tipping the head.

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well, hopefully I will luck and and need to re-tighten but worse case the only option I have is to remove the hoods and shield like you mentioned Owen. So I gather you mean when the front rods come out, you tip the head down to get the back ones out? Just tryin to picture this.

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You take all the head bolts loose and remove the front push rods. The front five are no problem and usually you can get number six also. There will be several head bolts that hold the rocker arm shaft in place that also will not come out. Raise the remaining push rods until they hit the underside of the fuel tank. Use spring type clothes pins to hold them up. Tip the head to the left until the rocker arm assembly and the push rods can be removed. Remove the head.

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The 282 in our 656 has been doing that (bubbling) for at least 5 years (the amount of time we've owned it, who knows how long before that). So far it's given no problems.

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Dads ole 560 dieselhe bought new in 1962 i believe ,,,I had to pull the freeze plugs and clean the block ,,,couldn't believe the trash ,(gunk) that came out ,,infact it was full of water and when i pulled first plug out towards the back of the engine nothing came out ,,same held true for the others also

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