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tractorman21

Removing the PTO

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How big a job is it,to remove the PTO unit from a 1086? Anything i need to pay special attention to?

Thanks,

David

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Just the suction tube as it comes through the rear housing and make note that the connecting shaft stays put so the couplings stay oriented in the right direction. You can do this by removing the third link cover and reaching inside to hold it in place. When you re-install it, you will need a pressure guage to adjust the lock up pressure and starting pressures.

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Looks tougher than it is.Drain hytrans, remove top link cover, remove the long bolts in the pto housing, disconnect linkage and wiggle it around and out. Pull it out just far enough to break the gasket seal. It's pretty heavy. One guy can take them in and out but it does take a techique to balance it. When you start to pull the unit out, take it slowly and make sure the shaft drives the pto thatinside the rear stays on the inner shaft not the pto unit. It will just kinda hang in there. As you pull the pto unit out furthur start to drop the outside part down a little. The suction tube is on a 45 degree angle pointed down and will not clear the hole if you pull it straight out and will not take too much presure against it or you will damage it or the seal. When you tip the pto down to pull it out, with one hand grab the 1000 shaft and the other hand grab the inner shaft coming out of the pto drive. Watch your toes!!!

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I usually attatch a lift on one of the upper bolts, then use a pipe that will slip over the 540 shaft to help guide it out of the housing.

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Looks tougher than it is.Drain hytrans, remove top link cover, remove the long bolts in the pto housing, disconnect linkage and wiggle it around and out. Pull it out just far enough to break the gasket seal. It's pretty heavy. One guy can take them in and out but it does take a techique to balance it. When you start to pull the unit out, take it slowly and make sure the shaft drives the pto thatinside the rear stays on the inner shaft not the pto unit. It will just kinda hang in there. As you pull the pto unit out furthur start to drop the outside part down a little. The suction tube is on a 45 degree angle pointed down and will not clear the hole if you pull it straight out and will not take too much presure against it or you will damage it or the seal. When you tip the pto down to pull it out, with one hand grab the 1000 shaft and the other hand grab the inner shaft coming out of the pto drive. Watch your toes!!!

There is one shorter bolt on the bottom in addition to the long bolts that has to be removed.

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How do you tell which way the coupling shaft goes. The boy is rebuilding with his own money a 1466 turbo for 4H. The pto unit was missing and we found a used one to put in. there was no shaft for reference inside of it. Thanks, sorry for the hijack.

Butch

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The PTO was missing? Where did you find the old girl? That sounds like a story in the making.

I want to say the coupler is reversible, so it won't matter. Otherwise it will slip on the shafts in only one way, so it won't matter.

I just did this job on my 2+2, and it is not too bad. There has been good advice: Use a engine crane, Remove the top link so you can see what's going on, and make sure you get all the bolts.

Watch out for your fingers and toes, and you'll be fine.

While you are at, I would suggest to replace the clutch plate if it hasn't been rebuilt already.

And good for your boy! This is a fantastic project! A challenge, but do-able! Good luck!

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IF YOU CAN NOSE THE TRACTOR DOWN A DECENT HILL OR INTO A DITCH, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DRAIN ALL OF THE FLUID OUT. OUR LOCAL MECHANIC DOES THIS OFTEN.

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I twisted the 1000 shaft out my 1086 one year while mowing hay and I did it all myself. I backed the tractor up on the dove tail of the trailer so the front was pointed down and pulled the unit by myself. I only lost a couple of gallons of oil that way. The shaft is reversable. It doesnt matter what side goes where. Ive done several and not worried about the shaft and have been alright. One other thing I do is put loc-tite on the suction tube. It helps to keep it from working out of the unit, use a med grade loctite so you can take it back apart on down the road. Ive also heard of people brassing it, but ive never done that. Good luck!

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Thanks fellas, The boy is very excited to get it going. We will probably roll the mains in Saturday, hopefully. then start dropping in the sleeves in. Here is a picture of his 1952 W9 he and I rebuilt for 4H 2 years ago. He won grand champion at the local and then won grand champion at the Colorado State Fair. The W9 sat for 22 years with out a head. Lots of work on this girl. The tractor that is being pulled by the W9 is his new 4H project, he refers to her as Beauty! Crud how do you post a picture ? Got it !

post-461-0-37467100-1303323675_thumb.jpg

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It can be done by hand ,but an engine hoist is easier -imo .

That thing is heavy for its size .

Tommy

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If you don't have an engine hoist, reinstall the drawbar after draining the fluid. It gives you something to rest the unit on. Thx=Ace

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Ok, here is the picture, of the W9 and the 1466. The 1466 is torn down in to different pieces for the overhaul. He plans on using it for his and his sisters custom haying business they do together.

post-461-0-30850100-1303322778_thumb.jpg

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Just finished putting my 1086 PTO back in. Would suggest an engine hoist and some copper spray gasket to hold the gasket in place while you rotate the housing around. Also needed to hold the driveshaft up a little so it would mate with the PTO unit as it slid in. Finally figured out I could stick a piece of half inch copper pipe up through the fluid drain hole and hold the shaft up a little so they would match up. The PTO should slide right in so that you can finger tighten the bolts. If you are encountering resistance when you are trying to bolt it up stop before you destroy something.

Also, on removal, make sure to NOT take out the two short bolts that hold the unit's guts together. The lower left rear short bolt does need to come out, but leave the other two in unless you need to take the whole darn thing apart for some reason. I only took it out to replace the torsion shaft seals that were leaking pretty badly...

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