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GaryhMN

Head gasket ?

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Working on a friends B and got a354474R96 gasket kit. It is marked up (head side ) sealerretorque required. I talked to two IH mechanices and a parts house and no one knows what to put on the gasket. It is Felpro on the back block side) which is medal top a dark hard materal . I usually put them on clean and dry with no sealer. Any ideas?

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Working on a friends B and got a354474R96 gasket kit. It is marked up (head side ) sealerretorque required. I talked to two IH mechanices and a parts house and no one knows what to put on the gasket. It is Felpro on the back block side) which is medal top a dark hard materal . I usually put them on clean and dry with no sealer. Any ideas?

Service manager at our CIH dealer & one of the older mechanics who has been an IH mechanic all his life recomended aluminum paint when I put a new head gasket on my M a few years ago. I also know several guys who restore IH tractors that use "Copper Coat" so I used that on the SMTA's head gasket. I've never had any issues with the M but the SMTA started leaking antifreeze into the oil last year. O can't say for sure if the problem was the "Copper Coat" or what but will use aluminum paint this time.

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Many of the newer felpro gaskets are no re-torque, no sealer; they have a special coating and are supposed to compress enough and maintain adequate clamping force without a re-torque.

For old style that require sealant and a re-torque, I've had good luck with this:http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/COPHTGSS-EN.PDF

I think the best advice would be to contact Felpro. They have contact information on their web site.

I'd be interested in what they have to say!

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IH recommended a re-torque and reset on the valves after a few hours of operation.

I still use that theory, especially on the older stuff.

Not re-torqing head gaskets came about because it was impossible to get back at the head to re-torque it.

Like on the new cars and trucks.

When the gasket fails again, you will find very loose head bolts in these newer vehicle engines.

The gasket compresses over time and the bolts are then looser than they should be.

Torque to yield bolts are supposed to help but the jury is still out on that theory.

The gasket fails because of a lack of clamping force.

It was a fix it and forget it theory that came from GM, Ford, Fel-Pro, etc..

IMHO. RETORQUE.

Your call.

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IH recommended a re-torque and reset on the valves after a few hours of operation.

I still use that theory, especially on the older stuff.

Not re-torqing head gaskets came about because it was impossible to get back at the head to re-torque it.

Like on the new cars and trucks.

When the gasket fails again, you will find very loose head bolts in these newer vehicle engines.

The gasket compresses over time and the bolts are then looser than they should be.

Torque to yield bolts are supposed to help but the jury is still out on that theory.

The gasket fails because of a lack of clamping force.

It was a fix it and forget it theory that came from GM, Ford, Fel-Pro, etc..

IMHO. RETORQUE.

Your call.

I agree with Diesel Doctor. I just put a new head gasket on my 300 U and after running it for a few hours, even though I had torqued the bolts to 70#, when I went back, they were at 60-65#. I re-torqued and everything runs great. As for what to put on the gasket, I coated each side with the paint on gasket stuff from Napa. It worked well and so far everything is working well. Ran it on my dyno after the re-torque and run at 35 hp on the pto.

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I find that nothing is better than Aluminum paint will let gasket move as you torque head also fill up any small volids in head or block then retorqe after running a while.

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Up till now I do not know anymore. I have talked to a number of mechanics and they aer not sure . I have been on Fel-Pros web site and there must not be a tec line but I emailed their tec support and was suppose to have an answer in a timely manner . But nothing yet. I have read alot on the Fel-Pro web site . It talks mostly about car engines with sealer on the block side which is medal to medal but again do not tell what to sealer to use. It was also said there was no instructions in their gasket kits in other cases so I do not which side or both to put paint or copper coat.

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Up till now I do not know anymore. I have talked to a number of mechanics and they aer not sure . I have been on Fel-Pros web site and there must not be a tec line but I emailed their tec support and was suppose to have an answer in a timely manner . But nothing yet. I have read alot on the Fel-Pro web site . It talks mostly about car engines with sealer on the block side which is medal to medal but again do not tell what to sealer to use. It was also said there was no instructions in their gasket kits in other cases so I do not which side or both to put paint or copper coat.

You probably won't go wrong with either but the copper product from Lock-Tite is designed specifically for the application. It has the copper particles to fill in voids and transfer heat plus a sealer to contain coolant. Aluminum paint varies widely from manufacturer to manufacturer. Look at the can for the ingredients. Some have hardly any aluminum pigment. Personally I'd rather use something designed for the application rather than take a chance on paint especially since the EPA keeps paint manufacturers changing their formulas from what what they were years ago.

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Have been a mechanic for 40+ years,Worked as IH mechaninc thru the 70's Have always used aluminum paint I apply several coats. Has always worked for me. At the very least I would reset the valves,I do both retorque and valves

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Head gasket. Just finished a complete overhaul on our 358D. shop manual says to torque head bolts in 3 steps,at room temp. This being done, finished up putting

engine togather, started it up. Ranning it a couple of minutes, shut it down. Had a small water leak between head and block. Check head bolt,found them to loose.

Retorqued all head bolts. We run engine to warm it up; then retorgued all head bolt up to specs.

Iknow it says no need to retorque head bolts' but if we had not done this' this bolts would have been loose. I have overhauled lots of engines and have allways

retorqued head bolts. I think most of these gaskets ar made in China. Just my two centa worth.

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Head gasket. Just finished a complete overhaul on our 358D. shop manual says to torque head bolts in 3 steps,at room temp. This being done, finished up putting

engine togather, started it up. Ranning it a couple of minutes, shut it down. Had a small water leak between head and block. Check head bolt,found them to loose.

Retorqued all head bolts. We run engine to warm it up; then retorgued all head bolt up to specs.

Iknow it says no need to retorque head bolts' but if we had not done this' this bolts would have been loose. I have overhauled lots of engines and have allways

retorqued head bolts. I think most of these gaskets ar made in China. Just my two centa worth.

Did that gasket specifically say that no re-torque is necessary?

I've got nothing against re-torquing, god knows I've done it plenty of times, but I'm surprised that a coated, no re-torque actually leaked coolant!

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