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jrod

turning up a 1066

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On a 1066 which way do i turn the fuel screw to add some fuel and how many turns can i go MAX assuming everything is stock right now? Thanks.

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The screw goes counter clockwise (out) lefty lousy, lol. I would go 3 turns, it should be around 130hp stock and 3 turns should have it about 160hp, which should be around 1100* when working in the field. The water temp will be higher, you need to really watch it and install a pyro, that is the only way to be safe.

When I pull a tractor with the 100 pump I turn the screw all the way out, I take the lock nut off the screw and turn it out so it is seated in the housing. There is another screw down below that one that runs sideways, I turn that one all the way as well. Makes a huge difference. Pull the filter"s" and add 5* timing and it will pull like a freight train!!!

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On a 1066 which way do i turn the fuel screw to add some fuel and how many turns can i go MAX assuming everything is stock right now? Thanks.

As your standing there facing the pump you would turn the screw towards you(picture it as your standing behind you it would turn left or out to make it longer) This will turn up the pump. If your just turning it up to pull it, turn the screw out until it stops. Thats what I do on my 14 and have even run it down the road that way. I didnt do it long tho as it used about 10 gallons of fuel in 2 miles :wacko:

If your turning it up to use on the farm, I would tune it on a dyno, and install a pyro. Ive heard of alot of 10's turning 170 and used that way, and lasted...

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The screw goes counter clockwise (out) lefty lousy, lol. I would go 3 turns, it should be around 130hp stock and 3 turns should have it about 160hp, which should be around 1100* when working in the field. The water temp will be higher, you need to really watch it and install a pyro, that is the only way to be safe.

When I pull a tractor with the 100 pump I turn the screw all the way out, I take the lock nut off the screw and turn it out so it is seated in the housing. There is another screw down below that one that runs sideways, I turn that one all the way as well. Makes a huge difference. Pull the filter"s" and add 5* timing and it will pull like a freight train!!!

Are you talking about the only other screw under the cap that runs the same direction as the fuel screw and has a jam nut? You say you run that one all the way out as well, what does that one do? I'll be pulling in a 6mph 12,000# class so what gear do you think i will be able to handle? I went ahead and backed the fuel screw out and that already made a world of difference along with the delivery valve cut. The last time ive timed a pump was years ago in diesel class so im a little rusty, how do i advance the timing a little on the 100? I know im asking a lot of questions but thanks for time.

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The screw goes counter clockwise (out) lefty lousy, lol. I would go 3 turns, it should be around 130hp stock and 3 turns should have it about 160hp, which should be around 1100* when working in the field. The water temp will be higher, you need to really watch it and install a pyro, that is the only way to be safe.

When I pull a tractor with the 100 pump I turn the screw all the way out, I take the lock nut off the screw and turn it out so it is seated in the housing. There is another screw down below that one that runs sideways, I turn that one all the way as well. Makes a huge difference. Pull the filter"s" and add 5* timing and it will pull like a freight train!!!

Are you talking about the only other screw under the cap that runs the same direction as the fuel screw and has a jam nut? You say you run that one all the way out as well, what does that one do? I'll be pulling in a 6mph 12,000# class so what gear do you think i will be able to handle? I went ahead and backed the fuel screw out and that already made a world of difference along with the delivery valve cut. The last time ive timed a pump was years ago in diesel class so im a little rusty, how do i advance the timing a little on the 100? I know im asking a lot of questions but thanks for time.

That screw is the droop screw. Its purpose is to change the leverage of the governor linkage at low rpm's(under full load) and decrease fuel delivery to prevent damage from lugging under full fuel.

Jim N.

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The screw goes counter clockwise (out) lefty lousy, lol. I would go 3 turns, it should be around 130hp stock and 3 turns should have it about 160hp, which should be around 1100* when working in the field. The water temp will be higher, you need to really watch it and install a pyro, that is the only way to be safe.

When I pull a tractor with the 100 pump I turn the screw all the way out, I take the lock nut off the screw and turn it out so it is seated in the housing. There is another screw down below that one that runs sideways, I turn that one all the way as well. Makes a huge difference. Pull the filter"s" and add 5* timing and it will pull like a freight train!!!

Are you talking about the only other screw under the cap that runs the same direction as the fuel screw and has a jam nut? You say you run that one all the way out as well, what does that one do? I'll be pulling in a 6mph 12,000# class so what gear do you think i will be able to handle? I went ahead and backed the fuel screw out and that already made a world of difference along with the delivery valve cut. The last time ive timed a pump was years ago in diesel class so im a little rusty, how do i advance the timing a little on the 100? I know im asking a lot of questions but thanks for time.

Im not sure what gear youll want to run in...What size of tires? Are they just 18.4-38's or are they 20.8's? That will make a big difference in what gear you choose. My 14 has 20.8's, and I pull in the 13,000 and over class, without a speed limit rule. I pull high second most of the time, but everyonce in a while I get a wiled hair up my a*s and go to high 3rd, but my clutch isnt stout enough to hold it. Last time I did that it slipped the whole way, so I dont do that anymore. But what Im getting at is H2 is about +/- 12mph. Is your t/a good, or is it a direct drive tractor? Heres a few videos of my 14 in the 13 and over class...

th_tractors038.jpg

th_tractorpull009.jpg

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The screw runs horizontal (side to side) (going front to rear) and it is under the fuel screw, you want to make the screw level with the plate that it runs in, when you look down there you will see what I mean.

I would only time it +5* if you plan to pull it all summer, if you are going to farm with it I would just give it a few (2*) and leave it there all the time.

Most guys with farm tractor that are just turned up all the way run Low 4th if the sleds heavy or High 1st if its light, air those rears down and let it cleat past the road gear warriors...

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The screw runs horizontal (side to side) and it is under the fuel screw, you want to make the screw level with the plate that it runs in, when you look down there you will see what I mean.

I would only time it +5* if you plan to pull it all summer, if you are going to farm with it I would just give it a few (2*) and leave it there all the time.

Most guys with farm tractor that are just turned up all the way run Low 4th if the sleds heavy or High 1st if its light, air those rears down and let it cleat past the road gear warriors...

Shawn, are you thinking of the torque cam? The little nose that pushes against the stop plate?

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Jim I don't know what its called, it's the screw that is in the plate under the fuel screw, you back it out until the plate will move all the way without the screw interfering with plate travel. It is as easy to adjust as the fuel screw, just a little deeper in the pump.

Did you see the movie Tropic Thunder? The line where the guy said what is your side arm (what kind of gun do you have) He says I don't know what it's called, just the sound it makes when it takes a mans life. lol

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If all you want to do is turn it up for pulling all you have to do is remove the two screws that hold the excess fuel piston to the housing, lift the piston up enough to swing the oil tube out of the way and reinstall the piston back on the housing. Just reverse the procedure to get the oil line connected and you will be back to your original settings.

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Well i hope the TA is half way strong in this thing but i guess ill see tonight. Im running 18.4x38 which is the max tire size they allow. Ill try to let you know what happens tonight. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.

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What is the RPM limit? Many of these "farm" classes will allow a faster RPM. 150 or 200 revs will make a big difference!!

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The pull tonight no rules on rpm but most i go to have 2800 rpm i think it is, ive never worried too much about it since i havent turned up my rpm's.

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Air the tires down to around 11psi, that will help get a better bite. What gear are you running, Low 4th?

Did you get the fuel turned up? Did you pull the filters?

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Well i went home with my tail between my legs!!! had a few problems with clutch i beleive. I better start a new thread b/c its getting completly off subject with this.

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