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red_reaper

blasted leaking oil tube Orings on a 361/407

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My 806's previous owner put a hose clamp around the oil cooler and oil tube (the one that always leaks on 361/407)that goes into the oil pump to draw it down tight towards the cooler. As this is unsightly and a riggin, I took it off and put new Orings and gasket on the elbow. The inside of the elbow was smooth as glass,not worn at all. put it back on and it leaked a stream of oil. I had an extra tube and elbow, so I put them on, only this time I used the old Oring which was swelled up a little making a little tighter fit. Same thing, it leaks too, but not as bad. I noticed the one tube had black tape cut the same width as the groove in the tube and wrapped several times to make the diameter larger so the Oring would fit tighter. There has got to be a larger or thicker Oring to make these pains in the rear stop leaking. The Oring you get at C/IH is plainly not big enough and it just slips right into the elbow with ease. It ought to fit tight. Anyone know what to use? or what number Oring would fit better?

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Hand written in our 407 partsbook is a note, to first put on a smaller o-ring, p/n 238-5020 (new stupid CNH p/n is 221964), then put on the o-ring actually called for (either the black o-ring p/n 238-5218, or the orange o-ring p/n 343398R2). Personally, I have never tried that, either myself, or even here at work. That note was written long before my time, and I think is somewhat been forgotten here @ work. Personally, I have always used the orange o-rings for these tubes, not the black ones. The orange ones seem to swell a lot easier than the black ones, esp. if they come in contact w/ mineral spirit solvent. Solvent renders them orange ones useless, they swell so bad.

Knock on wood, I can say the oil pump to cooler tube on either 1206 doesn't leak. Had a he!! of a time w/ the gasket for the oil tube from the rear cooler header to the oil filter head! D@mn, that thing p!ssed me off! Went thru several gaskets & "yellow bear snot" to get that bugger to seal, even a NOS oil tube! (Ask Wildfire how bad that thing irritated me!) Finally found an o-ring that fit in the recess of that tube flange that stuck up just enough to seal up.

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SOP here has always been a new elbow and new tube with a new orange O-ring or even better yet a quad ring.

Those oil pump elbows will be worn and you won't be able to detect it.

When you bolt the elbow on - be careful and try to center the pipe in the elbow and not apply radial force to the joint.

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My 806's previous owner put a hose clamp around the oil cooler and oil tube (the one that always leaks on 361/407)that goes into the oil pump to draw it down tight towards the cooler. As this is unsightly and a riggin, I took it off and put new Orings and gasket on the elbow. The inside of the elbow was smooth as glass,not worn at all. put it back on and it leaked a stream of oil. I had an extra tube and elbow, so I put them on, only this time I used the old Oring which was swelled up a little making a little tighter fit. Same thing, it leaks too, but not as bad. I noticed the one tube had black tape cut the same width as the groove in the tube and wrapped several times to make the diameter larger so the Oring would fit tighter. There has got to be a larger or thicker Oring to make these pains in the rear stop leaking. The Oring you get at C/IH is plainly not big enough and it just slips right into the elbow with ease. It ought to fit tight. Anyone know what to use? or what number Oring would fit better?

I had that same problem on a 1456 that I used to have.It used to be that the glands at the ends of the tubes were available from cih parts.I got some and brazed them on the old tubes and it solved the problem for me.

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Last I knew, the repair glands were still available. I have sold them once before. Lord knows I don't have the patience to braze new glands on the oil oil tube, when I can just get a new tube assembly (can't braze the greatest, either :wacko: It makes for a funny ordeal to watch! :lol: ). The puller 1206 did get a new tube assembly, worked great, but the support bracket that goes back to the tappet cover didn't line up for $hit!

Kristin, just pack it full of silicone between the gland & the elbows on the oil cooler! :lol::lol::lol::angry::angry:

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I ended up re-using the leaking orange O ring on my 806. Applied several wraps of teflon thread tape under the O ring, then a thin coat of RTV gasket sealer, then the O ring. This worked for me. I did order the correct orange O ring from the local dealer as well, but haven't had to use it yet. steve

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MY 1206 IS ALWAYS A SLOBBERING MESS THERE. TTRIED NEW GASKETS, BLACK O RINGS AND A NEW TUBE, NO SUCCESS. I WILL HAVE TO TRY THOSE ORANGE ONES NEXT TIME.

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I went to the local hardware got a thinner oring put that on 1st and then the stock oring. I also used silicone which helped with fitting it in the sleeve.

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One of the 361 guys here swears be O-Rings from CAT. Claims the original CAT rings are tougher and a larger diameter. Have not tried them myself

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Hi I have used the quad ring that goes between the clutch housing and transmission on a 560 part # 365548R1 with great success

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Hi I have used the quad ring that goes between the clutch housing and transmission on a 560 part # 365548R1 with great success

I agree, the quad rings work in areas where I have had some wear and leakage, worked like a charm.:D

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What's a quad ring?? you mean that square cut oring that butts up between the two halves for the oil suction tube? I may try this or the double Oring trick.

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What's a quad ring?? you mean that square cut oring that butts up between the two halves for the oil suction tube? I may try this or the double Oring trick.

Looks like this, you can get them at hydraulic shops.

quad-rings_250x250.jpg

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What's a quad ring?? you mean that square cut oring that butts up between the two halves for the oil suction tube? I may try this or the double Oring trick.

http://www.marcorubber.com/quad_rings.htm

Available at any hydraulic shop and your local CNH dealer should have them as well.

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ive used the quad rings several times and they've always stopped the leak. an old tractor mechanic friend of mine told me to use them.

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I use the IH quad rings in this application too. IH part # 368548R1. As they say in Rosendale, WI..."that's the ticket!!!".... :lol: (for those unfamiliar with this town, please drive thru sometime, but don't go to fast....)

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I jotted down the p/n for the quad ring, and made a note in our parts lookup program. I'll have to remember that for future reference. Learn a new trick on here all the time!

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Gary1466, I went to the dealer today and gave them that part number. Said it ws no good. I told him what ring it was, and it was 368548R1 Not 365548R1, but it did not matter, they didn't have it. So I got the little Orings to put under the regular Oring. To take it one step further, I went to the local hyd cylinder shop and ask about the quad rings. They said forget about those and put a backing ring on it, like you'd see in the hydraulic outlets on a 66/86/88 series,only not split or ones like is in a hydraulic cylinder. They set me up with a square cut rubber backing ring. I stretched it over the lip into the gland, then the Oring. It fit nice and tight in the elbow now. I put it on awhile ago, and it's dry as a bone!!!!! WAHOOO!!

Thanks for all the help!!!

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The simple fix is new elbow and pipe. Always silicone the gasket lightly on both sides. Never fails

No, that's the expensive fix that won't last. That fix would cost well over 200.00 my new fix cost about 4.00 and will last much longer with a tight Oring, and you don't have to use the oil squirter clogging silicone.

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The simple fix is new elbow and pipe. Always silicone the gasket lightly on both sides. Never fails

Agreed that new parts are about the best idea to address the problem for a few thousand hours. Its a design flaw and there isn't really a permanent fix, regardless of what type of seal is put in that joint...eventually it will leak again.

It's a bit of a guessing game to align the pipe and elbow so that when hot oil starts flowing and the metal expands that the pipe doesn't push against the side of the elbow and wear both the elbow and the end of the pipe where metal to metal contact occurs.

If it was just a simple straight pipe and not a 90 degree elbow it would not be a issue.

Don't think there is enough room there to install a flex pipe either...

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I agree Doc, i have had to shim the pipe at the bracket a time or two to get them to seal correctly also. I agree new parts are usually best but with eminent failure regardless i vote with reaper and the 4 buck route :P:D

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