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wjeffers

123 hydro

6 posts in this topic

I would really appreciate it if someone would post a picture of the coupler that goes directly behind the engine on the 123. I drug one home the other day and it has some sort of cobbled up/welded u-joint in place that I'm sure isnt correct. I believe it should have the rubber coupler, but would like to see one all assembled to know for sure. Thanks in advance

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do you mean this one, mine is worn which I only discovered when I took the cover off which might explain your welded uni setup???

post-15607-1261088958_thumb.jpg

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do you mean this one, mine is worn which I only discovered when I took the cover off which might explain your welded uni setup???

post-15607-1261088958_thumb.jpg

Huummm, thats not what I thought it was going to look like. I expected it to have the to bars bolted 90 degrees from each other with a piece of rubber between them. I believe the hydro has this setup right before your input goes into the hydro?? I will have to take a close look at mine and see what I will have to do to make it look like yours. Thanks for that photo.

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no worries

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I would really appreciate it if someone would post a picture of the coupler that goes directly behind the engine on the 123. I drug one home the other day and it has some sort of cobbled up/welded u-joint in place that I'm sure isnt correct. I believe it should have the rubber coupler, but would like to see one all assembled to know for sure. Thanks in advance

The rag joints at both ends of the driveshaft didn't start till the quiet-line tractors, 1250/1450/1650. The 123, the first Hydro, until the 1X9 series used a round disc with a tube with a slot and a hardened dowel pin thru the slot & driveshaft on the engine. The round disc bolted on with four 1/4"-20 short capscrews. The rag joint was only used on the rear of the driveshaft.

You can change to rag joints on both ends but You'll need more/different parts.

Anyhow, I agree, get rid of the u-joint home-made set-up. I've never seen anything made that's as reliable as the factory set-up. Another L&G equip. company up in Horicon, WI. used u-joint driveshafts in some of their tractors and they're making LOTS of GREEN Money selling repair parts now.

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I would really appreciate it if someone would post a picture of the coupler that goes directly behind the engine on the 123. I drug one home the other day and it has some sort of cobbled up/welded u-joint in place that I'm sure isnt correct. I believe it should have the rubber coupler, but would like to see one all assembled to know for sure. Thanks in advance

The rag joints at both ends of the driveshaft didn't start till the quiet-line tractors, 1250/1450/1650. The 123, the first Hydro, until the 1X9 series used a round disc with a tube with a slot and a hardened dowel pin thru the slot & driveshaft on the engine. The round disc bolted on with four 1/4"-20 short capscrews. The rag joint was only used on the rear of the driveshaft.

You can change to rag joints on both ends but You'll need more/different parts.

Anyhow, I agree, get rid of the u-joint home-made set-up. I've never seen anything made that's as reliable as the factory set-up. Another L&G equip. company up in Horicon, WI. used u-joint driveshafts in some of their tractors and they're making LOTS of GREEN Money selling repair parts now.

I'll agree with that, original is best in most cases. I for sure will get that ujoint out of there. I wish I had a good picture of it, its quit a piece of work. Ill have to take a closer look at how much of the original setup is still there once I get that hunk of welded junk out of there, and make my decision on which style coupling to use at that point. Thanks for the info

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