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IH-Harvester

Farmall H transmission oil

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Last night I pulled the belt pulley shaft out of my H to replace the shaft oil seal. I noticed the gear oil in the case looked like chocolate syrup. I cleaned the case out real well and put everything back together. I was getting ready to add oil to the gearcase but wondered what oil to use? I got to thinking and wondered if the transmission circulates oil up to that housing? If it does,did moving the tractor just put more nasty gear oil up in the belt pulley gearcase? I need to drain the transmission oil also, I never have in the few months that I've owned the tractor. What Oil do I use in the transmission and belt pulley housing?

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Years ago, when I had an H Farmall, I just used 80-90 gear oil in the transmission and rear end. Mine didn't have the pulley housing on it.

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i use 140 weight gear oil. it's thinner than the molasses that's in there now and it won't seep out past the seals as easy as 90 weight. remember everything in that old gearbox is sixty years old and has a little extra clearance worn into the moving parts.

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Last night I pulled the belt pulley shaft out of my H to replace the shaft oil seal. I noticed the gear oil in the case looked like chocolate syrup. I cleaned the case out real well and put everything back together. I was getting ready to add oil to the gearcase but wondered what oil to use? I got to thinking and wondered if the transmission circulates oil up to that housing? If it does,did moving the tractor just put more nasty gear oil up in the belt pulley gearcase? I need to drain the transmission oil also, I never have in the few months that I've owned the tractor. What Oil do I use in the transmission and belt pulley housing?

I used 80W90. I don't have any leaks. The oil is circulated up to your belt pulley gear housing when your pulley is running. There's no drain plug for the belt pulley housing so you can suction the old oil out. My old old looked like road tar with plenty of sludge in the bottom of the transmission and rear end. Took awhile to scrape that old stuff out.

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Last night I pulled the belt pulley shaft out of my H to replace the shaft oil seal. I noticed the gear oil in the case looked like chocolate syrup. I cleaned the case out real well and put everything back together. I was getting ready to add oil to the gearcase but wondered what oil to use? I got to thinking and wondered if the transmission circulates oil up to that housing? If it does,did moving the tractor just put more nasty gear oil up in the belt pulley gearcase? I need to drain the transmission oil also, I never have in the few months that I've owned the tractor. What Oil do I use in the transmission and belt pulley housing?

I used 80W90. I don't have any leaks. The oil is circulated up to your belt pulley gear housing when your pulley is running. There's no drain plug for the belt pulley housing so you can suction the old oil out. My old old looked like road tar with plenty of sludge in the bottom of the transmission and rear end. Took awhile to scrape that old stuff out.

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Second on the 85W 140. I put 16 gallon in my M, nice and quite now. Not sure what the H holds, probably around 12 gallon or so. Yes the belt pulley is lubed from the transmission.

Dusti

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Whats the best way to flush out the rear housing? Take the top rear end cover off? Is it ok to rinse it with diesel fuel to remove the sludge? I dont want to put new oil in it just to be mixed with the old sludge.

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WHEN CHANGE MY OIL IN REAR END I FILLED WITH DIESEL MOVE AROUND A LITTLE TO SLOSH IT AROUND THAN DRAINED AND FILLED WITH 80-90.

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The "H" manual that I have shows, SAE-140 or SAE-160 oil for the Transmission, Differential, and the Steering Gear, that is in temperature's of 50* - 90* which would be pretty safe range to use from.

The capacity only shows 6 gallons.

I think I would just pour the diesel or kerosene into the rear end no real need to open it up, drive it around a little hitting the brakes from time to time to stop so it will sloush around in there then drain it may have to do it a couple of times to come out real nice.

Big thing does this tractor get stored inside at all, if not can you cover it in anyway, the H's and the M's platform is set up to collect and deposit rain water right into the differential, those little bolts that are recessed into the platform are the area's that I am talking about they hold/collect water and it eventually leaks into the rear end, look at how many there are, it doesn't take long to get much water into the rear end.

The "M" book only shows capacity of 13 gallons.

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The "H" manual that I have shows, SAE-140 or SAE-160 oil for the Transmission, Differential, and the Steering Gear, that is in temperature's of 50* - 90* which would be pretty safe range to use from.

The capacity only shows 6 gallons.

I think I would just pour the diesel or kerosene into the rear end no real need to open it up, drive it around a little hitting the brakes from time to time to stop so it will sloush around in there then drain it may have to do it a couple of times to come out real nice.

Big thing does this tractor get stored inside at all, if not can you cover it in anyway, the H's and the M's platform is set up to collect and deposit rain water right into the differential, those little bolts that are recessed into the platform are the area's that I am talking about they hold/collect water and it eventually leaks into the rear end, look at how many there are, it doesn't take long to get much water into the rear end.

The "M" book only shows capacity of 13 gallons.

6 gallons on an H is right. I used 85w140, as others have said, and its quieted down considerably.

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I agree on the flush w/ the diesel fuel.

It doesn't get everything out but it helps.

Fill it up and drive it around for awhile.

Let it drain overnight and fill w/ 80-90 wt.

If all the seals and gaskets have been replaced, some guys run Hy-Tran in the rear ends.

It works, and well, if you can keep it in the case.

Your choice.

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Last Fall, I did the diesel flush like Diesel Doctor describes above and it loosened up a lot of the old road tar. Ran it around a field for awhile with no load. Rolled over some rougher terrain to slosh it around inside. I still had to scrape out a bunch of sludge.

My old H manual says 90W oil but I live in the north where it hasn't gotten to 90 degrees for the past two last summers. In winter, the old girl might not even move with 140 in the rear end!

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I think Im gonna drop the oil out of the rear and see what it looks like. I'm gonna open up the top cover anyway to replace the gasket, so maybe I can clean out the inside with diesel and scrape it then. I am also gonna use paint remover and a powerwasher to remove alot of the paint around the gasket area before I take the cover off so I don't blow it out after I put a new one on. This tractor is gonna be repainted after all of the repairs.

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How hard is it to replace the axle seals while the top cover is off?

A lot of the work is in getting the transmission top off in the first place. Once you get that far, fix what's wrong so you don't have to go through it all to get in there again. Check your bearings and seals, detents, etc Check the lower PTO seal that you get at from the front. Suggestion: Replace the top deck bolts at the same time if the heads are rusted from sitting in the those little wells. The heads on mine were fairly badly rusted so it was a bit of a trick getting them out.

Once you have it opened up, that's the time to change the axle seals if they need it.

If you haven't checked it out already, the Case-IH on-line parts catalog has parts blowups that you can print in combination with parts numbers. They can be very helpful.

Some of them are better than the ones in my service manual (and I don't work for a Case-IH dealer either!

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I flushed the gearboxes in a 650 and filled with light hy tran but drained and refilled with #90 gear oil as it leaked more and one or the other wheel would spin out tractor pulling very easy

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How hard is it to replace the axle seals while the top cover is off?

You talking about the axle seals or the housing gasket???

The seals are on the end of the housing the top cover shouldn't make much difference.

The housing gasket is another story and will be easier with the top off.

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Dad put Hy-Tran in the '51 M for a year or two. That was YEARS ago, late '60's or '70, '71. Leaking wasn't a problem but for a Chore tractor being able to shift into gear from a stand-still without grinding is kinda a nice thing. The Hy-Tran was thin enough it took forever and a day for the gears to slow down and stop. I know someone will say the clutch was dragging, but if that's the case then ALL Farmall clutches drag. Gears did whine a bit more but really wasn't that much worse than 90 weight.

I wouldn't go any heavier than 80W-90 oil in an H or M. Especially in colder climates. The gears in the transmission & rearend have to throw oil around into the channels cast inside the rearend to lube the bearings.

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yes the gears will grind a bit but up here where it hardy ever is summer hy tran is the best , dont forget that from the time of the super6 etc all tans. used hy tran. toold..

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How hard is it to replace the axle seals while the top cover is off?

You talking about the axle seals or the housing gasket???

The seals are on the end of the housing the top cover shouldn't make much difference.

The housing gasket is another story and will be easier with the top off.

I need to replace the axle seals wher the axle comes out of the housing. Anyone care to give a step by step on replacing them? Any other axle seals in there?

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I am going to drain & flush mine this winter and my plan is as follows:

Remove oil fill plug and drain plugs (2 - there is the large one at the rear of the transmission and a smaller one in the front of the transmission. Let everything drain over night. Next day, refill transmission with 5 gallons of diesel fuel or kerosene. My tractor is up on jack stands so the next step works for me and that is - start engine and put transmission is 5th gear. Engine at idle for 15 - 20 minutes. Shut engine off and open both drain plugs and let drain overnight again. Next, remove the PTO housing(s) and PTO shaft and linkage. This will give you a large enough opening that you can inspect the "innards" of the gear box. At that time you can clean out the bottom of the casting. After reassembly of the PTO, refill transmission with the 140 or 160 gear oil.

My owners manual says 13 gallon capacity.

If I forgot anything or anyone has any other advise, please let me know.

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DR.EVIL;My 650 was hard to get in gear also with the hy tran.I don't think the clutch was draging in it ether as I had pulled the engine to turn the ring gear so I resufaced the flywheel and cleaned checked and anti siezed every thing. After I put gear oil back in it went in gear ok . Biggest dif was with hy tran one wheel would spin at the drop of a hat.I think I should have used 140 [is it still available] as this tractor will never see winter use again

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I need to replace the axle seals wher the axle comes out of the housing. Anyone care to give a step by step on replacing them? Any other axle seals in there?

Still a little unclear in what you're asking. The axle seals are nothing to change. You of course will have to pull the hubs first. The axle seal retainer is held on by 4 bolts. Remove the retainer and then the seal can easily be replaced. Go ahead and get a new felt why you're in there. Make sure you put the oil seal back in the right direction (lip facing in towards transmission housing). For some reason this seems to confuse some guys because it seems backwards as you're sliding it back on the axle.

If I were you go ahead and put in new axle carrier gaskets. This is very easy to do without pulling the top deck cover. Just remove the PTO to give you access to the bull gears. Take out all of the bolts holding on the carrier and take the bolt off holding in the bull gear. You have plenty of room to get your arm in through the PTO opening to do this but you may have to play around with different wrenches or rachets to get the bolt out. Just let the bull gear rest in place once it is loose. Pull out the carrier with axle. You can then check the bearings. The inner bearing is held in by a couple plates bolted to the carrier housing. Seems like 80% of the time the inner bearings are bad. The gaskets are easily available through CaseIH. Clean the face of the transmission housing with a DA sander or just whatever else you have available. I go ahead and put some good quality silicone on both sides of the gasket. Once you have everything cleaned up and ready to reinstall get a couple of 5/8 bolts about 8-10" long and put in place of the bolts holding in the housing. Cut the heads off as you will be able to put the carrier on these to help guide it in place as you line it up with the bull gear. You'll of course need help with this because of the weight of the carrier with the axle and once you get in hanging on the "dowels" the other guy will need to move the bull gear in place. Now is also a good time to put new gaskets and seals in the pto.

Good luck

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I need to replace the axle seals wher the axle comes out of the housing. Anyone care to give a step by step on replacing them? Any other axle seals in there?

As 1949H stated the axle seals that are in the end of the axle are an easy fix just support the rear on the tractor after raising it just enough for the tire to be off the ground, remove the tire and wheel assembly, separate or together your choice, would be easier separate though. Then the seal is held on with just four small bolts pretty self explanatory after that.

Also just like 1949H stated make sure that your replacement seal is turned the right way or you will find it leaks a lot worse. :lol: :lol:

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I am hopefully only looking to replace the axle seals without pulling the housings. The only reason I want to pull the transmission cover is because the gasket is weeping a little oil. It would be easier to clean out the rear sludge with it off anyway. Everything seams to work great mechanically,just trying to make her as dry as possible before I paint it. Going to redo the pto gaskets also.

I guess you mean the lip of the seal the spring side towards the transmission?

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