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What kind of oil do you use in your 4 wheeler?

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Changed oil in the 4 wheeler this morning and thought Id ask what kind of oil do people use?

I can't find my owners manual right now, but I think it says 5W30 or motor oil anyway. That was printed before Artic Cat came out with their own special $20 gallon synthetic oil stuff. My one dealer said to use motor oil. Other artic cat dealer says to use something formulated for use in clutches. Says some detergents etc, not good for clutch/trans. The mechanic at the yamaha dealer which I know real well says to use what ever I have been using...dont switch.

I have had to adjust the clutch some what, just figured I was too lazy to down shift at the right time. $20 a gallon is kinda spendy, but so are 4 wheeler parts :wacko:

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I run 10-30 Trop-artic in some and 15-40 Rotella in the ones that get used hard and get hot. I've seen many that use the factory oil, but I really don't see much special about them. One of my best customers will not use anything but Honda oil in his farm use Honda....he says his clutches will slip if he doesn't, but I've got his old 4-wheeler and have been using 15-40 Rotella in it and I just adjusted the clutches a bit tighter...I don't use it as much as he did, but I haven't had any problems, I'm not out much if I do either.

Travis

ETA: The newer ones that I've changed oil in all say to not use 'Energy Conserving' oil, which is normally your 5-30 oils....it says it right on the oil bottle if it is.

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If I am going for cheap I use Honda 10w-40 black bottle, if its something I like I use Amsoil motorcycle 10w-40 full syn. Factory filters only.

Don't use over the shelf oil, its not worth ruining the clutch packs.

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Interesting, I have always used some form of 15-40 as well. 2 diesel pickup and tractors etc. About the only oil I have on hand. Thought about 5-30 with winter comming on, but dont ride it much untill calving....march.

Kinda figured since owners manual said motor oil, that Artic Cat was trying to stick me. Like I said though I have had a little slippage in the clutch. Tried to adjust it myself the first time. Instrcutions and everything and messed it up. Done twice since with 7K+ miles. So not too bad I guess.

Guess Im kinda dumb....what energy conserving oil?

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In my cat I put mobil one 10w40 motor cycle oil ,you need a motor cycle oil bacause it has additives for the clutches

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In my cat I put mobil one 10w40 motor cycle oil ,you need a motor cycle oil bacause it has additives for the clutches

Ive never really priced any of it. The guy from the one Artic Cat dealer sold me a gallon and it was 18.99 plus tax 1 1/2 years ago. He said he really didnt care if you bought it from him or somewhere else, just to use that kinda stuff.

Spose I could snoop on the net. Havent done that much. Checked CL out thursday. Wow never knew you could find so much stuff :wacko: Drive youself looney looking in all the towns in all the states.

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In dad's honda 400 we run 15/40. In my Can Am 650 I run Castrol Syntech 10/40. 4500 miles on my can am and no ill effects. 11,000 miles on dad's 400 honda and no affects. Never adjusted the clutch either. Course my can am is belt drive so seperate transmision oil there.

Ryan

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In some machines the newer oils cause slippage under load, usually most noticeable in the high gears. High viscosities / low temps aggravate the problem. Many current day machines run lighter clutch springs so as to get easier lever pull and that means a matching lighter oil is necessary. My XR-400s did not like low friction oils and I had to get older spec stuff for them or else change clutch springs.

If the clutch engages smooth and holds tight with the oil you run, then you're good to go.

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Changed oil in the 4 wheeler this morning and thought Id ask what kind of oil do people use?

I can't find my owners manual right now, but I think it says 5W30 or motor oil anyway. That was printed before Artic Cat came out with their own special $20 gallon synthetic oil stuff. My one dealer said to use motor oil. Other artic cat dealer says to use something formulated for use in clutches. Says some detergents etc, not good for clutch/trans. The mechanic at the yamaha dealer which I know real well says to use what ever I have been using...dont switch.

I have had to adjust the clutch some what, just figured I was too lazy to down shift at the right time. $20 a gallon is kinda spendy, but so are 4 wheeler parts :wacko:

I would take the time to hunt down a owner's manual and go with what it recommends.

A dealer trying to twist your arm to use "their" oil is BS. There are legal standards for all lubricating oils and as long as the product you use meets or exceeds those standards you are fine.

No manufactore can require you to use a specific "brand" of lubricant as a condition of warranty coverage unless it provides that item free of charge.

That being said - As other posters have said....wet clutches can be quickly damaged by the wrong oil.

Anything with friction modifiers or a "Energy Conserving" logo on the can/bottle are usually bad news for wet clutchs.

Dropping several hundred or even a grand to replace a smoked clutch would really suck. :(

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I've been doing the same as the previous owner of my Honda Big Red trike, whatever the owners manual recommended. If memory serves me it was just 10w-40 motor oil. After 22 years and over 12,000 km it is all original with no slippage or breakdowns yet.

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I got a 1999 Arctic Cat 250 2WD that I use every day. Been running Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic since it's first oil change. Change it twice a year (weekend when we roll the clocks forward or backward). Don't have a clue as to the hours or miles, it don't smoke, don't use any oil. clutches don't slip.....

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Here's the skinny on wet clutch oils.....

You want to look for an oil that does NOT have the "energy conserving" mark on the back, as those that are labeled as "Energy Conserving" contain friction modifiers which can cause premature clutch failure.

Now, when selecting an oil, you have to keep in mind that this fluid not only has to lubricate your crank, connecting rod, and top end, but lubricate the transmission (high shear forces) and work well with the wet clutches, and suspend any clutch fiber wear in itself.

Myself, I run Rotella in my XR Honda bikes and utility-type ATV's.

The best protection you can give to an ATV is not high dollar oil, but good clean oil.....they don't have much for capacity, and the trans, engine and clutch are all riding in that shared fluid.

I quit doing the "change every so many months, miles, etc" and installed an hour meter, and change after 20 hours of engine run time....I know that sounds like a really short time, but you'd be amazed how long it takes to rack up 20 hours of engine time on an ATV.

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I have only used the CanAm semi syntethic oil, The CanAm does not have a clutch.

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I have only used the CanAm semi syntethic oil, The CanAm does not have a clutch.

I've never really looked at them....what kind of drive does it have if there is no clutches? Does it use a belt drive like Polaris?

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I have only used the CanAm semi syntethic oil, The CanAm does not have a clutch.

I've never really looked at them....what kind of drive does it have if there is no clutches? Does it use a belt drive like Polaris?

you have to watch that, the regular old polaris only had a belt that did the shifting and disengagement. but on many others yamaha, suzuki, a/c, even the rubicon, there is a regular old centrifugal clutch in the motor behind the belt clutches that does the disengaging while the belt does gear change. you are right on the money about the friction modifiers, it doesn't bother everyone but it is not recommended.

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I quit doing the "change every so many months, miles, etc" and installed an hour meter, and change after 20 hours of engine run time....I know that sounds like a really short time, but you'd be amazed how long it takes to rack up 20 hours of engine time on an ATV.

I always liked "Oil change after So Many gal. of fuel burned". Seems to compensate for cold temps, short trips, hard pulls, etc. better. Just not sure how many gal. of gas would normally be burned in 20 operating hours.

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Im my Bayou Kawasaki 4 wheeler that has a wet clutch I am using 5wt-30 Archer Supreme. Its an energy conserving oil an I have never had any problems with it. Its an outstanding oil with an aircraft based base oil. I usually change it once a month so i never forget. I use my 4 wheeler on a daily basis.

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I have only used the CanAm semi syntethic oil, The CanAm does not have a clutch.

I've never really looked at them....what kind of drive does it have if there is no clutches? Does it use a belt drive like Polaris?

CanAm is made by Bombardiar=the same company that makes Ski Do snowmachines. The centrifical clutch is the same design as the snomobiles use. I really like the belt drive, have tried the Honda automatics and Yamahas. etc The belt seems to have better control. IMHO

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I used to drag a lot of the belt driven ATV's out of the river bacause the belts would slip bad especially the Polarises .

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I used to drag a lot of the belt driven ATV's out of the river bacause the belts would slip bad especially the Polarises .

If the belt is not sealed it will not work in water. Bombardia makes SeaDoo's also. This should make a difference

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I used to drag a lot of the belt driven ATV's out of the river bacause the belts would slip bad especially the Polarises .

If the belt is not sealed it will not work in water. Bombardia makes SeaDoo's also. This should make a difference

I have two Seadoo's...there's no belt on them anywhere. :blink:

I concur about the Polaris wet belt slipping syndrome.

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