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farmboy1989

changing input shafts

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farmboy1989    0

We are tractor pulling with our 966. Going to have a double disc clutch and a reasonably hot 466 this coming year. How much hp will the stock input shaft hold? Should you change it and go to the big 1566 shaft? What else would I have to change if I went that route? Thanks!

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Here is how you can look at EVERY upgrade for a pulling tractor............................... either do it right or do it twice. Meaning ....... you can get away with lots of things with lesser parts for awhile BUT sometimes that lesser parts takes out more than just itself when it breaks.

So you decide what you are gonna end up with (what class) and build it in that direction. DO NOT SKIMP ON SAFETY an SFI steel clutch isnt much more than a non-SFI but will keep your feet and legs attached to your body plus keep fans safe from flying cast.

My recomendation is ........... put in a bigger shaft and an SFI steel clutch

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Ed Leaman    0

Like he said, fix it right the first time. If you build the trans to stand anything you throw at it you will be able to concentrate on building power instead of repairing transmission and clutch's. Go with a billet 13 spline shaft and a 5 disc Allied TA. Assuming you are running a ta. the 11 spline and the 13 spline shaft are the same diameter where they pass through the oil supply area. Not much gained by the 13 spline factory shaft. Yes it will stop twisting in the splines but the next weak spot is the oil supply area and they will twist there!

While you are in the trans a lower countershaft support bearing is money well spent and up front, go with the SFI clutch deal for sure!!

We have seen so many people buy a double disc setup and try to run the 11 spline shaft, 2 or three pulls later the shaft is twisted off; now they are faced with the realization that they should have went with a good trans setup!! They end up buying the good ta and then spending for two 13 spline clutch discs and an 18 spline hub for the PPlate. The double expence on the clutch is money that could have been spent somewhere else.

Ed

BTW: there is rumor of an 8 disc ta for pulling coming soon and a triple disc SFI clutch that fits in a stock bell without changing engine plates!!

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gonzo 1066    0
Here is how you can look at EVERY upgrade for a pulling tractor............................... either do it right or do it twice. Meaning ....... you can get away with lots of things with lesser parts for awhile BUT sometimes that lesser parts takes out more than just itself when it breaks.

So you decide what you are gonna end up with (what class) and build it in that direction. DO NOT SKIMP ON SAFETY an SFI steel clutch isnt much more than a non-SFI but will keep your feet and legs attached to your body plus keep fans safe from flying cast.

My recomendation is ........... put in a bigger shaft and an SFI steel clutch

DITTO: I just installed the 3rd!! single disc clutch in a customers tractor. I asked him why dont we install a SFI double. He said "lT cost too much" I couldnt bieleve it. He already paid for a good SFI clutch, he just dosent own one!! The new clutch will last another season, MAYBE then the same deal all over again@@ <_<

Do it right one time you wll never regret it.

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the imput shaft isnt going to break as fast as the counter shaft will and then comes along with the rest of the trans

pinion bearings is where id look first the imput shaft will hold alot, if your worried about it :unsure: cyro freeze it and take along all the rest of the parts that your conserned about it dosent cost much.

are you going to go with a crower or a mcloud. crower will last a lot longer if you have to slip it a lot

JUST REMEMBER puilling isnt about how much money you have :ph34r: ITS ABOUT HOW MUCH YOU KNOW :wacko::wacko:

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1 1/8" input can hold a lot. We have a 1 3/8" 10 spline and twin disc clutch in ours. But if you're in there, do it right the first time...1 3/4".

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aar    0

As stated before do it right and forget it. You will twist or break the input if u build much power and carry any weight. Are u going to run a ta?

Like he said, fix it right the first time. If you build the trans to stand anything you throw at it you will be able to concentrate on building power instead of repairing transmission and clutch's. Go with a billet 13 spline shaft and a 5 disc Allied TA. Assuming you are running a ta. the 11 spline and the 13 spline shaft are the same diameter where they pass through the oil supply area. Not much gained by the 13 spline factory shaft. Yes it will stop twisting in the splines but the next weak spot is the oil supply area and they will twist there!

While you are in the trans a lower countershaft support bearing is money well spent and up front, go with the SFI clutch deal for sure!!

We have seen so many people buy a double disc setup and try to run the 11 spline shaft, 2 or three pulls later the shaft is twisted off; now they are faced with the realization that they should have went with a good trans setup!! They end up buying the good ta and then spending for two 13 spline clutch discs and an 18 spline hub for the PPlate. The double expence on the clutch is money that could have been spent somewhere else.

Ed

BTW: there is rumor of an 8 disc ta for pulling coming soon and a triple disc SFI clutch that fits in a stock bell without changing engine plates!!

Ed: An 8 disc that would be something. Triple disc sfi clutches that require no engine plate change have been around for quite a while though. main reason for plate change is to move starter to front side for flat flywheel.

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If you're going to have a T/A in it, and are going to upgrade to a 13 spline 1566 input T/A, there are a few other related items you need to change. Any of the guys that have replied to this thread can tell you what you need to do this, because they all told me what I need to get when I do it to my 1206, which just happens to be the next step I'm gonna do here, maybe next month if all works well.

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gonzo 1066    0

If you change to a large input 1566TA remember to also change the constant mesh gears. COUNT THE TA TO COUNTERSHAFT TEETH!! Otherwise the Direct to TA will only be 1 tooth reduction. Ed or any of the clutch, TA specialists can help you with this When you start on the project GET A PLAN If you are not going to change or modify the injection pump and will be content with under 400 HP, most of the stock parts will do if they are new. If the class you want to compet in has lots of high HP tractors and they are pulling more than 12mph you need to start modifing trans and diff parts. PLAN AHEAD.

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f30puller    0
As stated before do it right and forget it. You will twist or break the input if u build much power and carry any weight. Are u going to run a ta?
Like he said, fix it right the first time. If you build the trans to stand anything you throw at it you will be able to concentrate on building power instead of repairing transmission and clutch's. Go with a billet 13 spline shaft and a 5 disc Allied TA. Assuming you are running a ta. the 11 spline and the 13 spline shaft are the same diameter where they pass through the oil supply area. Not much gained by the 13 spline factory shaft. Yes it will stop twisting in the splines but the next weak spot is the oil supply area and they will twist there!

While you are in the trans a lower countershaft support bearing is money well spent and up front, go with the SFI clutch deal for sure!!

We have seen so many people buy a double disc setup and try to run the 11 spline shaft, 2 or three pulls later the shaft is twisted off; now they are faced with the realization that they should have went with a good trans setup!! They end up buying the good ta and then spending for two 13 spline clutch discs and an 18 spline hub for the PPlate. The double expence on the clutch is money that could have been spent somewhere else.

Ed

BTW: there is rumor of an 8 disc ta for pulling coming soon and a triple disc SFI clutch that fits in a stock bell without changing engine plates!!

Ed: An 8 disc that would be something. Triple disc sfi clutches that require no engine plate change have been around for quite a while though. main reason for plate change is to move starter to front side for flat flywheel.

8 disc would be cool! my 5 disc is holding up very well right now though... Have had a 3 disck clutch for 3 seasons (one before I got it) very little under 800hp.. with more to come on Harts dyno this winter

I wonder if the 8 disc would bring the ITPA 12K boys back to a tourque as they don't run one anymore..

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aar    0
As stated before do it right and forget it. You will twist or break the input if u build much power and carry any weight. Are u going to run a ta?
Like he said, fix it right the first time. If you build the trans to stand anything you throw at it you will be able to concentrate on building power instead of repairing transmission and clutch's. Go with a billet 13 spline shaft and a 5 disc Allied TA. Assuming you are running a ta. the 11 spline and the 13 spline shaft are the same diameter where they pass through the oil supply area. Not much gained by the 13 spline factory shaft. Yes it will stop twisting in the splines but the next weak spot is the oil supply area and they will twist there!

While you are in the trans a lower countershaft support bearing is money well spent and up front, go with the SFI clutch deal for sure!!

We have seen so many people buy a double disc setup and try to run the 11 spline shaft, 2 or three pulls later the shaft is twisted off; now they are faced with the realization that they should have went with a good trans setup!! They end up buying the good ta and then spending for two 13 spline clutch discs and an 18 spline hub for the PPlate. The double expence on the clutch is money that could have been spent somewhere else.

Ed

BTW: there is rumor of an 8 disc ta for pulling coming soon and a triple disc SFI clutch that fits in a stock bell without changing engine plates!!

Ed: An 8 disc that would be something. Triple disc sfi clutches that require no engine plate change have been around for quite a while though. main reason for plate change is to move starter to front side for flat flywheel.

8 disc would be cool! my 5 disc is holding up very well right now though... Have had a 3 disck clutch for 3 seasons (one before I got it) very little under 800hp.. with more to come on Harts dyno this winter

That must be one stout F-30 :lol:

I wonder if the 8 disc would bring the ITPA 12K boys back to a tourque as they don't run one anymore..

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What weight class, tires, engine? The small shaft should be good enough. If a super stock can pull in the 11200# class turning 30.5s in H3 with the small shaft...

Andre

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Here is a thought for all of you who are saying stock "will" last just fine. (not saying they wont work for awhile but .........) BANG CLANG CRUNCH GRIND ................... then you say ....... Dammit thats gonna cost waaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy more than if I would put that shaft in it to start with. :( Its really your choice............... guys are out there every day running stock stuff and are fine ........... but as soon as you get alittle greedy with the pump setting or on that "bad" track and things WILL make you wish you had done it right cuz now you are doin it twice Good luck

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I agree....throw a 2" shaft in there!

Must be these 3LM tractors have more hp than the multichargers of 30+yrs ago. I think I peed a little!

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aar    0
I agree....throw a 2" shaft in there!

Must be these 3LM tractors have more hp than the multichargers of 30+yrs ago. I think I peed a little!

I think u'd be surprised how little horsepower and torque those old supers made back then. Not to mention they were being compared to m&w upgrade kits :lol:

Really I think Killer's point was simply do it now or do it later and replace lots more parts than u would have in the first place.

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Well Im really not here to start a fight and I could really care less Wildfire 1206 what USED to work vrs what DOES work today. I could put you in touch with a very good friend of mine who TRIED to do like you are saying ............... "lets just do it cheap cuz it will never be able to break it" Right? thats what you are saying right?

Well guess what ? LOL A 466 with a P pump and a 3x3 charger in a hotfarm class CLEANED OUT the trans and clutch REPEATEDLY because it SHOULDNT be able to break it!!!!! OH DAM ...................... broke it ALLOTTTTT

SO now its ALL good parts and he no longer has to work on it which goes along way to insure the "fun factor" unless you LIKE to keep fixing and spending money and at best get crowd pleaser award because you had the most breakage.

My parts in both of mine are of like parts as well .................................. do it right or do it twice.

Personally I like it when my stuff ISNT broke ........... Im taking home the money and kissin the trophy girl ........... But to each his own.

Hangin out with guys workin on greasy broken parts isnt as much fun in my book............ just sayin

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Oh and BTW ........................ When was the last time you were up close n personal with a SS ? PS? LSS? SF? **** most SF tractors here in the midwest are even running a profab with billet parts!!!! By what you say they DONT even begin to need parts like that!!!!

Feel free to look at some good hardware and see how far behind times you are thinkin.

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Oh and BTW ........................ When was the last time you were up close n personal with a SS ? PS? LSS? SF? **** most SF tractors here in the midwest are even running a profab with billet parts!!!!

An hour ago

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Oh and BTW ........................ When was the last time you were up close n personal with a SS ? PS? LSS? SF? **** most SF tractors here in the midwest are even running a profab with billet parts!!!!

An hour ago

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Oh and BTW ........................ When was the last time you were up close n personal with a SS ? PS? LSS? SF? **** most SF tractors here in the midwest are even running a profab with billet parts!!!!

An hour ago

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Oh and BTW ........................ When was the last time you were up close n personal with a SS ? PS? LSS? SF? **** most SF tractors here in the midwest are even running a profab with billet parts!!!!

An hour ago

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Well the either you would understand what good parts are all about or you have a museum piece and you better leave it in the shed. The old school supers would have a hard time with good SF tractors of today. Even todays LLSS would beat the snot out of a DSS of old.

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