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MirageFlatter

Three point hitch problem on 1066

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Hey,

I'm a new user on this forum, and have a question for Nebraska1206, or any other IH tractor mechanics here. I've had this recurring, occasional problem with the three point hitch on my 1066 in the 24 1/2 years I've owned it, where the lift arms will become stuck in the position they're in, with no further movement, up or down. Seems like all four times it's happened, that the implement mounted bounced, and then the lift arms were stuck, the first time with a plow, the second and third times with a rotary hoe, and most recently, with a blade, while moving snow. Now the first three times it happened, I had a mechanic correct the problem, and wasn't around when they were working on it. But I've also been told, that it's a fairly easy fix, removing the top link attachment plate from the back of the tractor, and reaching in and reattaching an arm to the load control shaft, or some such fairly simple thing. Is all of this making sense to any of you IH tractor mechanics, and if so can you give me pointers on how to do it? Does the transmission/hydraulic oil have to be drained while doing it? I have a little more time now to work on these kinds of things myself than I used to, and would prefer to do it that way, if it's within my capabilities. And is there some kind of a permanent fix to this problem, other than the obvious of stop bouncing stuff on the three point? Any help and advice from anyone would be welcomed and appreciated!! Thanks!! ;)

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Never done it, but I have heard about this happening. If I'm not mistaken, what happens is the linkage for the draft control & all that gets out of place. Usually, yes, this can be done thru the 3rd link cover opening in the rear end. There's a cast iron 'arm' that comes down from all the linkage that controls the 3pt, and then theres a steel arm that comes up from the lower draft sensing tube. That lower arm from the draft tube shaft needs re-positioned so that it touches that upper arm. What I can't remember, is if the lower arm needs to be in front or behind that upper arm. If memory serves correctly, it needs to be behind. You shouldn't have to drain the oil down, usually the oil level is below the 3rd link cover.

Hopefully someone else from here will come along & read this, and remember it better that I can. I know I've looked at this stuff in all the tinkering I do, but never paid close enough attention.

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The lower arm needs to be on the front side of the upper arm. We often take off the upper part of the lower arm and weld a washer on each end to help keep the upper arm from sliding by. You can easily access this through the 3rd link cover and you don't have to drain any oil.

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Ah, see, I knew someone would know this better than I would.

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we have done theis a few times on our 966. for some reason its the only one that has done it, yet. crap now i jinxed it! anyways the washer idea is a good one we did that too and it hasnt slid by yet. to pull the arm back in place we used a two foot long piece of pipe and a length of good wire. figure out how much wire you need to go from the pipe around the arm to be pulled and back out to the pipe again. then you can pull on the pipe and have someone there to snap it back in place when you get it pulled far enough.

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the arm comming up from the bottom goes up in front of the arm that comes down from the top ...i welded a half inch nut on the end of mine jusy so the arm would not slip by again ...this also let the arm brush the side of the case so the arm could not slip by again ... that thing is a PITA when something hooked to it as in my case was a 16 ft firld cultivator ....well i got to a high spot and held the brake and spun down the tractor one wheel at a time till the cultivator was on the ground to unhook it for a 10 min fix ....IHSMOKE

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OK Guys,

Thanks a bunch for all of your help so far! Now, keeping in mind that I've never been into this hole behind the top link cover, I'm picturing all of this stuff you're telling me in my mind, but is it all going to be pretty self evident, and pretty easy to figure out, when I get that cover off and get in there? And do I have to pull back then, towards the back end of the tractor, on the arm coming down from the top, in order to get the one coming from the bottom, back in front of the one coming from the top? Could I pull on that top arm with something like a come-along or fence stretcher, with it well anchored on both ends? And when you talk about the bottom arm needing to be in front of the top arm, do you mean in front, as toward the front end of the tractor? Are all of my stupid questions as clear and confusing as mud??!!

IHSMOKE, we've been there with the PITA issues of having an implement to get off when this has happened. With the plow, and once with the 21' rotary hoe, they were both on the ground. Once with the hoe, and again with the blade, they were up in the air. Supported them with a loader while unhooking. At least the plow was on the ground, everything else was relatively light compared to a 4 bottom spinner plow.

Thanks again for the help. I'll be anxiously awaiting more comments and answers!! ;)

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I've gotten good at this one. :wacko: Might be hard to make out the arms in this pic, but here's a shot of what you'll see when you remove the top link bracket.

10-8-2009kodak003.jpg

The fellas here have all given you good advice. And the pipe idea is a good one! I took a piece of 1/4" rod and bent about 1" of it back to hook the upper arm. As I pulled the upper arm back, I stuck a crow bar under the tip of the upper arm (and over the top of the lower arm) to help pull. After about three times of this, I removed the top half of the lower arm and welded flat washers on both sides.

If the lift arms haven't leaked down already, they will fall when you start pulling on the upper arm. Don't let them mash you.

I had this problem on a 1066 we had, and found that the lower arm was loose on the torque tube. Had to remove the pto unit to tighten it up.

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I had this problem on a 1066 we had, and found that the lower arm was loose on the torque tube. Had to remove the pto unit to tighten it up.

MirageFlatter....If this problem is happening frequently then misalignment or looseness of the sensing arm on the torque tube is most likely the culprit.

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"MirageFlatter....If this problem is happening frequently then misalignment or looseness of the sensing arm on the torque tube is most likely the culprit."

I had a tractor that repeatedly came loose. I eventually had to replace some stuff in my draft sensing. For a quick fix weld a piece of channel onto the arm instead of the washer. It stays on better. If you have to work on the draft sensing tube/etc you will have to drain the rear housing and remove the PTO unit.

Thx-Ace

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My 666 is doing this. The arms are at the top and the lever at the bottom. If you raise the lever the pump runs trying to raise the arms higher. We took off the top link cover but can't really see how this should operate. We can pull too lever back some but that just moves it further from the lower arm.

Should the top arm be in front of the lower? Like toward the front of the tractor?

If they should be the other way around mine aren't touching and these are really there. Any advice would help. Wanted to mow hay today and can't hook to the mower now.

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