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Farmall M belly hydraulic pump

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I need to remove the belly hydraulic pump. I have the IH shop manual and have read the section on the hydraulic pump. I have live hydraulics and suspect that the belly pump has been gutted and is used for a reservoir only. Need to drop it and check the seals. Can anyone tell me how the filler tube comes out?

I have not removed the inspection cover yet. One of those things, never having removed the pump before, I’m leery of what I’m going to get into.

Advise much appreciated. :unsure:

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I need to remove the belly hydraulic pump. I have the IH shop manual and have read the section on the hydraulic pump. I have live hydraulics and suspect that the belly pump has been gutted and is used for a reservoir only. Need to drop it and check the seals. Can anyone tell me how the filler tube comes out?

I have not removed the inspection cover yet. One of those things, never having removed the pump before, I’m leery of what I’m going to get into.

Advise much appreciated. :unsure:

Theo,

All you need to do is unscrew the cap on top, remove the bolts below, insert a stabilizer or have another person who can hold it upright, then lower the floor jack you had blocked up under it. Watch for the drive coupling to fall out, too.

Gary

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If you have the manual (original) for your tractor, it should show you how to make two stabilizer bars out of 5/8" round rod to aid in the removal. It looks simple to make, and would probably help a lot. I believe that the belly pump weighs a little over 100 lbs. I also need to check mine, the pressure is ok at around 1000 psi, but I also have a leak somewhere in the pump, Let me know how yours went, Thanks, Dave

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I have the IH shop manual and it shows how to make the support rods to assist in removing the pump. I was alittle confused because I don't recalling the manual stating on what to do w/the tube.

Wasn't sure if there was enough room to simply leave it attached.

Took a better look at it over the weekend and should have plenty of clearance.

Not sure if I'll tackle this project before winter or wait till next spring. I've got so many other chores, I'm not sure if leaking hydraulic fluid is a big deal. May just monitor the fluid level; through the winter and fix in the spring when I don't have to use the ole girl as much.

Had an old boy tell me that maybe my vent on the filler cap is pluged and this is causing a pressure related problem and causing my leak.

Anybody here of this? Is this something I should look into?

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Theo--

I have run heavy weight oil in a leaking belly pump in the past----used to run 85--140 transmission oil in them all the time down here in Mississippi. Don't know where you are located-----your temperatures might not agree with the heavy syrup. Hadn't run my old M in a number of years----but the belly pump will be leaking whenever I crank her back up. :blush:

If you drop the pump out----it would be a good time to check your clutch out at the same time.

Delta Dirt

Avon, Ms 38723

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Did the heavy oil stop the leak? Also, I was wondering about some of the stop leak additives that are available, could this damage anything? I think that maybe these old pumps are just prone to leakage. Also, in regards to theo's question about the vent cap, I remember reading somewhere that the oil could be pushed back through the cap if the vent is blocked. I checked mine, and there is some sort of packing, wool, etc. in the top of the cap, What is this stuff? Thanks, Dave

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Did the heavy oil stop the leak? Also, I was wondering about some of the stop leak additives that are available, could this damage anything? I think that maybe these old pumps are just prone to leakage. Also, in regards to theo's question about the vent cap, I remember reading somewhere that the oil could be pushed back through the cap if the vent is blocked. I checked mine, and there is some sort of packing, wool, etc. in the top of the cap, What is this stuff? Thanks, Dave

That felt packing in the cap is the "vent". The tank is not pressurized so if the seals are even in half way decent shape there will be no leaks at all. As DD stated, heavy oil will slow things down for a bad situation.

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The felt packing is still in the cap. I'll pull it out to see if it isn't full of gunk.

When I 1st pruchased the M, I had little knowledge of anything to do w/her. "Not that I have much more to date." The clutch went out and I had a new one installed along w/cleaning out the pump. I can't ever recall it leaking till this yearand that's been 12 yrs or so. I've got a constant drip now. When I shut her down I'll get about an ounce or so of leakage before it stops.

Is there a possibility I have it over full of fluid? Does the resevoir have an over-flow tube/hole? I no longer have the dip-stick to check fluid levels in the pump.

I think I read on the board to drain the system, put 6 qts of fluid in and check the level. This will be close to where it needs to be. Make a dip-stick and mark it. Add to the system as needed but keep at that level.

I'll give the heavy transmission oil a try.

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I haven't had one of these in my hands so can't give a blow by blow of the details. Somebody else will have to step in for that. Be warned, in 12 years stuff gets old and them seals ain't new any more. Especially if it sits a lot and the seals take a set.

Ours is set up for two way and the only place oil ever comes out is the filler which when the pump sucks air and the cap is off can be pretty dramatic at times. :lol: On a one way system ya gotta keep enough room in the tank for the cylinders to collapse all the way and yet still have enough oil in the tank to extend all the way too. Not enough and the pump will suck air and the hydraulics will basically stop. Too much and it will push it back out the cap when you collapse the rams. Thems the rules. Another thing to think about when changing oil is what it gets hooked up to. Implements will have oil in them too and the stuff mixes.

As a side note, ours has an occasional problem with air in the lines caused by a bucket line that seeps. (Cheap fittings, got that fixed I think.) Being set up for two way action you wouldn't think it to need as much air space in the tank as a one way but having a loader means it still has to be filled pretty high. Extending rams takes up more oil than you get back from the cylinders and with four cylinders it adds up fast.

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Right now I have the loader off. Which I'm about to change in the next week. It leaks just as prevelent w/or w/out the loader.

I'm simply going to have to drop the pump and check out the seals.

I'm sure that will bring on another general discussion.

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