cotton1

MCV gasket for non-ta 826

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I have tried to search around and cant seem to find the part number I need. My 826 is what I believe to be a factory non-ta tractor, and am not sure how to tell if it is that or just has been deleted. No lever since I have had it anyways. I called a independent dealer about that and some other parts and he told me that the non-ta gasket set was different from the ta set and he did not offer the one I needed.

After that I searched up all the online places to try and find a part number. What I am finding is number 393877r93 but I think that one is for ta applications.

I live in SC and we don't really get below 30deg much here, but had a couple weeks around new years where we were in the 20s mostly and in the 10-15 range at night. When I started the 8 up to put some hay out, I had no hydraulics. I let it warm up for a while and tried holding the brakes and turning the steering wheel, that's when the gasket blew out. At minimum I need the gasket, but was also wondering if I should go ahead and change out the pump and springs while I am in there? I have had this tractor over 10 years (probably closer to 15) and have never put either pump in it. I think when I bought it I did have to reseal the mcv, but it was not yesterday and I cant remember.

Any help appreciated.

Cotton1

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All the gaskets sets from CaseIH always had the complete gaskets for TA or NON  TA equipped tractors, along with extra gasket for late 66 series tractors that had the extra plate to space pump out for added rpm's of engine.   I had a ton of those extra gaskets that were not used in all jobs.  Getting them separate made the parts man do a lot of extra work and he did not want to do it.  They might not be available separately now, don't know.     Also, if the tractor came factory without TA it will not have drive selector spool on top but if converted to remove TA it will still   have some of those parts so, you may need some of the gaskets for a TA equipped tractor even though TA has been deleted.  Clear as mud, right. 

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Thanks for the reply Pete! So you think that the kit I located should have everything in it regardless of TA, non TA, or TA delete? One of the places I located the kit offered a reman MCV and that kit was listed in the related items section which kind of confused me. I think some of the kits actually state they are only for TA equipped machines. I'm wondering if the all inclusive kit is a CaseIH thing only, and the aftermarket ones don't even have the gaskets I may need.

Im about 70 miles from a dealer and so normally try to order things on line. Sounds like I need to give them a call this time. Reading different threads makes me think that a 12GPM pump might be a good idea while I am in there. If I do decide to do that is CaseIH the best way to go on that? I can get new pumps from several different aftermarket on-line vendors, but if I do replace it I would like for it to be a one and done kind of thing.

Thanks again,

Cotton1

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Yup, like I said, I never saw a IH or CaseIH mcv gasket package that did not include all gaskets for  TA or non TA equipped tractors.  For tractors  where TA was deleted later with after market parts, quite frankly I have never had any experience with them.  Never deleted a TA except on a 560 which is a whole different system.  

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33 minutes ago, pete23 said:

Yup, like I said, I never saw a IH or CaseIH mcv gasket package that did not include all gaskets for  TA or non TA equipped tractors.  For tractors  where TA was deleted later with after market parts, quite frankly I have never had any experience with them.  Never deleted a TA except on a 560 which is a whole different system.  

We have a factory delete 1256 farmall I will put pictures of control and valve up here tommorrow. I have personally deleted 4 ta s . Always the people didn't want them anymore . One thing I will say we have a loader on our delete they shift better. Dad has a 1586 delete in the shed he got it one time from wrecker when we needed a delete set.

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Cotton

      A bit of information about you power steering not working and MCV gasket blowing out.    If you are using HyTran oil or a good aftermarket brand, these oils are designed to adsorb moisture to prevent the water from settling out in your transmission case.   This said, when the outside temperatures drop below freezing the emulsiflied oil will have frozen water in it.   This will "thicken" the oil or raise the viscosity,  enough water in it and the oil will be frozen and the pumps will not turn and neither will the gears.  I do not know if this was the case with your tractor and  oil and temperature but I would sure think so.   Hope this helps.

GT&T

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More and more it seems like I will be putting in a new pump, changing fluid ( been a while) and filter with this repair.

If I can figure out how, I will try to post a picture tomorrow. I will say in advance that my tractors are not very nice to look at.

I will be happy to share the S/N. Do you only keep up with 826's? Mine is a gear tractor with the 358. Besides the 8 I have a 706, 756, and a 1566 bs. Is there a registry for any of those?

I plan to make a call to the CaseIH dealer tomorrow and see what they tell me about the gaskets. Don't go there often though as it's 70 miles away.

Cotton1

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I only do the registry on the 826's. But I have and know of several 756's as well. So I'd like both numbers if you don't mind. Thanks.

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You definitely have a non ta. When you take it apart lay new gasket on old one to make sure all holes match and you have right ones

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Ooh boy am I proud of myself, looks like I figured out how to post a picture! That's a big deal for me, my kids will be amazed!

Once again, my tractors are in working clothes. They look bad, but are used daily here. If they could talk they would tell you that about me too- look bad, but used daily!

I ordered a 12gpm pump and the gaskets today. If I did it right.. I ordered a 393877 kit and a single gasket 382322r5. Plan is to swap out pump, filter, gaskets and do a drain on the fluid and replace with new aftermarket fluid that is decent quality. I need to seal a few leaks up before going back to HyTran.

I will try to update this thread after the repair in case someone else runs into this. 

Oh yeah, the pump ordered is by Hycap. Hope those are okay.

Cotton1

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Thanks for confirming Dale. Just looking at it there seemed to be too much missing to be a delete, but was not sure.

Now here is the Serial number: any information that tells you would be of interest to me.

IMG_20180111_125405062_HDR.jpg

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Thanks for those numbers. Nothing close in the 826 registry. 8003, 8056, then 8065. Can't tell you much with that number other than it's a 1969. The 251 is considered the kind number which is 826. The 132 is the code number which we can't figure out. Learned this from fellow forums member GT&T. 

Curious how you're is optioned. Dual outlets, dual pto, and 34 or 38 inch rear castings. 

I have two 826's almost consecutive serial numbers. They appear to be twins but one is code 148 and the other 132. But we never got a definite answer what each code meant. Wish I knew that answer, sorry I dont. 

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What I can tell you about mine: 358 diesel, gear, no T/a, wide front, 34 in rears, dual remotes and dual PTO, 3 pt hitch and drawbar, open station.

What all of that was factory vs changed out/ modified over time I can't say.

I would like to swap out the rear hubs with my 7 since it has 38in. Go 34/10.00 on the 7 and 38/11.00 in the 8. Not sure if the axles are the same, but I'm thinking they are.

Cotton1

 

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Thanks for the run down. I will add that information to your number.

On your axles between the 756 and the 826. I think they are the same. 

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Had just a little time to start on the pump today. I went ahead and put the new filter in and started looking over the MCV, and I had planned to go ahead and drain the oil. I have a question about that though. My service manual is sorta vague(IT) and doesn't really tell me what I want to know. My tractor does not even have the threads in the housings to drain the axles like my 706 so it must be updated(factory?). Under the bottom there are 3 plugs that I know about: One under each axle and one in the middle above the draw bar. I cant remember if I have to remove all three or can I just remove the ones on each side?

When I changed the filter the oil looked nice and clean mostly, but the filter did need changing. There was a bit of metal in there which makes me wonder what else could be going on, reminded me of a chip off a gear tooth. The tractor was in the edge of a cut over I had been bush hogging when the seal blew out and I was sorta thinking to just drain the center section, get the new pump and seals in and do the oil change later on with another new filter. I would prefer to get the oil nice and hot before draining for one thing, and the bush hog is hooked up for another. That will make getting the center rear plug out kind of a pain, but it was the only one I was thinking about before rolling under and remembering the axle drain plugs. Just doing the center section for now makes sense to me but I would like to know what you all think. I'm wondering if the drive gear on the pump is chipped. I was planning on flipping the gear over if it looked worn on the one side but maybe I should just go ahead and get a new one here before removing?

Any suggestions?

Cotton1

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