Binderdan

Fuel tank restoration

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Every 15 minutes or so my old 1953 Hough HF would die as a result of crud floating inside the gas tank and blocking the outlet fitting.  This got annoying so I used a outboard boat gas tank strapped to the hood to get me by for a while. Worked good except in the sun the boat gas tank would pressurize forcing fuel into the engine so I had to monitor it closely. I finally got time to remove the nose piece and fuel tank a few days ago. 

I poured out the remaining gasoline and out came lots of rust flakes and crud. :o  I have a friend who runs a automotive machine shop who offered to hot tank it for me. I was amazed with the results as it even took most of the paint off of the outside.  He said it was due to a high acid content in the tank t was soaking in. Looks very good inside now but rather pitted from the rust.  I have read of many methods of restoring the inside of the old fuel tanks but I'm not sure what to do. 

1. Leave the tank like it is inside, paint the outside and just use it. After all they came from the factory uncoated metal inside.

2. Send it off and have the inside blasted, dents removed, and an epoxy coating that is guaranteed.  Cost of $300-$400 + shipping cost.  :(

3. Put river rock and water in the tank, strap tank to the center of my Farmall 856 rear wheel and drive around the property slowly. Buy POR-15 or auto parts store gas tank coating and attempt it myself. I have heard horror stories of this stuff flaking off eventually and causing the same problems. 

4. Buy some epoxy paint and primer and slosh it around inside and let it dry and just install and use it.

5. Other ideas? 

This old Hough loader only gets used once a week or so to lift heavy items around the property but it sure is handy. But the fuel tank is such a pain to remove I don't want to do this again someday. Plus all the pitting might not allow for a next time.

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kinda had the same problem on my 840 payloader  i took it out cleaned it all out put some tank sealer in it not sure where i got it from thinking it came from steiners  tractor parts looks like it sticks to everything it touches have not put the tank back in yet hope to have it done in a couple of weeks the brand name on the can was northern tank sealer

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I have an old welder that had a rusted tank. I tried the river rock and straping the tank to the tire.  I was not impressed with the results and it created a lot of work.  If I had to do it again I would buy one of the kits with the phosphorus and sealer,  

 

if the tank is clean from the hot dip I would go with your option #1, paint the outside and go with it.   you may consider sealing the inside with a simple kit from Steiner or another as insurance 

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POR 15 is very tough stuff - basically, a permanent fix that seals major pits and holes (you can get fiberglass cloth to seal some very big holes.)  If you put it on the way the directions say, it won't flake.  It's some work but way less expensive than sending it out.  Keep it off any plumbing threads; you'll never get it off if you do!

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I agree with AKwelder... Now that the tank has been cleaned, it should not be flaking enough to block your tank outlet..

Small particles will be caught by your sediment bowl, or the screen at your carb inlet, if so equipped... 

If you're not a purist, you can install an inline fuel filter for a couple dollars... I did that after I cleaned my tank and have had no issues.. 

If it continues to flake enough to block your tank outlet, then you can look at the more time consuming and expensive options ..

 

 

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I 've used the tank sealer with very good results. Cant remember what but i bought it from an ad in red power.. starting with a clean tank is a must.you are halfway there.

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I've heard lots of success stories sealing tanks with POR15.  Heard quite a few with Kreem too.  I bought a tank sealing kit from Eastwood years ago that was terrible. I used it on a home-made tank so no harm in throwing the whole mess away.

Not sure about newer gas tanks but many years ago gas tanks were made with Terne coated steel, terne was 10 to 20% tin and balance lead to resist rust/corrosion.  It's now been replaced by a 50-50 tin/zinc coating on 304 stainless steel.

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I have done a lot of fuel tanks over the years and hot water power washer good degreasing soap four times , then acid wash and rinse . When it's all dry you can put your tank liner in and roll the tank it around and draining excess out the bottom . Make sure you leave it for a couple days befor putting fuel back in and your good to go .

Danny 

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Go to the Yamaha shop, they carry one of the best tank sealer kits, I can't remember the name of it though.

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get one of the etch and epoxy sealer kits  + - $80   now that is clean it will rust 2x  and $^&*%^ gas makes it worse  and eats coating 

the factory coating is gone      (lead/zinc  pattern which you would have seen in a new tank)

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Worked with a guy who used kreem on a couple of tanks and was happy with it. Having it clean is key from what i understand. If yours is hot taked already this woukd be perfect time to do it sounds like. I also talked to neighbor who hired a guy to do one and it didnt work out so well. Contacted guy and he said he had tried a cheaper kit and had trouble with those and went back to better kit and to bring it back he would do it again. I think it pays to use the better known name brands, just my .02

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Thank you for the input everyone. I think I am leaning towards using the POR-15 kit since I am familiar with their products. I agree that now is the time to do it since it clean now.

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I do need to find a universal fuel level sender to replace the nasty original one. New master cylinder is in and I have brakes now!

I'll show some pictures of the results when I get my kit in.

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I used the POR-15 kit on my 464, but it hasn't been long enough to really judge it.

However, I used the same stuff on my 1926 T hot rod, and that has been nearly 5 years and it has worked great.

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Well my POR-15 kit arrived so I started the process on my Hough loader fuel tank. 

Step 1 involved taping off openings and dumping the quart of cleaner/degreaser along with a quart of "very warm" water into the tank and shaking the tank for 30 minutes.  That was a long 30 minutes. Then flush with water. My water is so nasty here that you have to chew it, so I used gallon jugs of distilled water. 

Step 2 was to fill with the quart of metal prep and let it sit on each side for at least 20 minutes to etch the metal. Then flush the tank with water. 

Step 3 was to dry the tank inside completely with a heat gun then apply sealer. After my tank was dry I looked inside. Most of the inside looked acceptable to apply the coating but the upper part of the tank was still slightly rusty and I was not comfortable applying the coating.

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So I took another half gallon of warm water and a heavy dog chain and with the help of a friend we slid the chain back and forth inside the tank. After our arms got tired we strapped the tank to the center of the wheel on my Farmall 856 and went for a drive. This made easy work of it.

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I flushed the tank with water again and it knocked a lot of stuff loose. Still not perfect inside but I find it acceptable to apply the coating now. I'll be doing that after work tomorrow. It says not to put fuel in it for 4 days after coating.

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I had Tracy classic gas tank do my Fordson  in gillford ,ill. 

Also did my Farmall C 

https://local.yahoo.com/info-83962093-classic-gas-tank-gifford

i have use a product  on the smaller tank  sold by hit n miss enterprises that's like a ceramic when it drys and it works great. Called gas tank restorer . Sells  for $35 a pint, 👍🏿 pour it in and slush it all around and por out  the rest back in the can . 

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Well I was going to start restoration of my 140 tank but I found that what I thought was POR-15 is a product from Western Radiator. Anyone know if it's the same as POR-15. Has the same sequence of detergent cleaner, tank prep and coating. Just don't want to go to all the work if someone has already had issues. 

Thanks, John 

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For tank replacement Try Cleveland tank your tank is a very basic shape so it probably wouldn't cost much. Rochester gauges might have a sender that will work for you.

https://www.clevelandtank.com/rectangular-fuel-tanks.html

http://www.rochestergauges.com/pages/gauges.html

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Luckily I think my tank will be ok as long as I can prevent the rust from returning.  

Those Cleveland tanks look to be well built.  Hopefully it won't come to that but it might be a good option if so. 

Got home from work and inspected the tank and it looked dry and clean enough for coating.

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I taped off the openings and started stirring the coating.  Took a LOT of stirring to make the liquid all a single color.

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Poured it all in and rolled the tank around slowly to coat the whole inside.

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After coating it looked pretty good. Instructions said to drain all excess and not to let it puddle. This was difficult because the pettcock hole had a slight dent and wasn't the lowest spot. I rolled it around and did my best to get it all out. Now I have to wait 4 days before adding fuel. But in the meantime ill prep and paint the outside and get the tank mounted back on the loader.

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