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IH Dan, December 2 in IH Construction Equipment
This is my first loader. I'm trying to get the S/N and age of the unit. Perhaps some of the pics I have sent give some clue to what they are, but I have no clue. LOL Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Dan, welcome aboard. I think originally the model and s/n tag was riveted to the front of the seat frame or in that area above the floor plate. Possibly has disappeared by now though. Should be signs of the rivets if it was ever there. Also your books should show you where the id plate is or was. With the s/n we should be able to come up with a year. 125E's were built 1974 - 1987. I don't know if the s/n was ever stamped in the frame but could have been, but not sure where.
I noticed dealer sticker from Everett, Wa. Are from that area? They were good machines in their day.
Thanks Dennis! We live in Granite Falls, WA.
I'm heading to replace the starter button and fix one of the loader's bucket cylinders tomorrow - both very new things for me to do. I will look for the S/N in the area you mentioned. The book speaks of and shows pics for S/N's for the Engine, bucket. It also shows one for the chassis, but doesn't show/say where the pic. was taken. Almost like by looking at the pic. you should know what part of the machine your looking at. I will look where you suggested and get back to you.
Chassis serial number is stamped on the number plate located on the left side of the front seat support. Also stamped on the upper right hand side near the rear face of rear main frame.
Nice loader!!!! I have a 250-c series lll , Wife calls it MOOSE! ,Not sure why!---It's just a baby!!! LOL!! thanks; sonny
Thanks everyone. I uploaded my S/N. Thoughts of a site to find out the year and any other info. that may be helpful for me?
Anyone know where to find a starter button that will fit into the dash of my 125E SP International Track Loader?
Dan, 1980 is the year. IH, then Dresser then Komatsu, then Dresta and beyond. Modern Machinery, Komatsu Dealer, in your area maybe could help but it has been a while since Komatsu was involved. Good luck. I think Pape" is Berco undercarriage dealer in your area also if need arises. Good luck
Dennis, thanks for the suggestions. I found a starter button on Amazon. See within. How do you know it's a 1980, did you figure it out through the S/N, if so where might I look up what is meant by the S/N?
We pulled off the hydraulic bucket cylinder last night. In the pics you will notice there being less than half a dozen 1/4" areas where the chrome was missing. Can this just be filed to move forward? Will it last long by filing it?
Also, I plan to tighten the tracks. What bolts do I loosen, what item to you turn and in what direction and how much sag do I want left when putting a straight edge over the track?
8 hours ago, IH Dan said:
Can this just be filed to move forward? Will it last long by filing it?
Can this just be filed to move forward? Will it last long by filing it?
Yes just file and sand , get the nicks and gouges as smooth and subtle as possible , New seals will follow the
contour on all but very severely damaged rods , Not the best solution ,but hey I know most folks aren't made of money
Packing seals etc, can be easily found online or at the local hydraulic supply, Dealer prices are pretty steep for kits .
ps I have field packed many of these cylinders with just a u-cup /dirt wiper and o-rings for the gland if piston end seals
were hard to find
You have hydraulic (grease) track adjusters , should be a zerk right behind the idler , on the yoke/adjuster assembly
Be well worth investing in some reading material operators/parts/service manuals are available on ebay and binderbooks, jensales
finney equipment ( watch the quality on repops though) nothing like the oem pictures and flow charts
I was feeling ambitious here is some pix (TD7C dozer manual pictured ,same on your machine though IIRC)
Dan, the last 4 numbers of the s/n are what is needed to determine the year. The info ahead of that is build code info and the U signifies it was manufactured in the USA.
I have a s/n guide book from the 90's for all or at least most construction machines of all brands. I'm sure the same info is on line somewhere.
If it turns out your cyl rod is too bad to repair, most hydraulic/machine shops have chrome rod stock and can make you a new one. For money of course.
Thanks for helping me find the year of my babe.
Thanks for the pics illustrating how to tighten the track. Is there any idler bolts or other bolts that need to be loosened before tightening, or is it just the piston that maintains the tension? If bolts need to be loosened, what bolts do I loosen before adding grease to the fittings? Not sure exactly where the grease fittings are. Will have to look next time I head out to see the loader.
I have a 1980 125E International Track Loader purchased in Nov. 2017. I need help tightening the tracks. I have the books, and am mechanically inclined, but apparently lack the super brain for tightening the track. I understand one uses a grease gun, but I don't know if there are idler bolts that need loosening first and later tightening or if you just put grease in. I also don't know of the exact location of the grease fitting or what type of grease. Also, does the track need to have pressure released on it somewhere before adding the grease. A video and/or specific pics and language would be greatly appreciated.
Kevingewq has given you all the info you need to tighten your tracks. In your first post the last picture of the yoke shows a cap and one of two bolts you remove and under that cap is a gease zerk. Attach grease gun and pump it up to the above suggested track tension. Nothing needs to be loosened or tightened just add grease to the desired tension.
The cap ( if still on the machine) is located a few inches behind the front track idler ,
For tightening track no need to loosen anything - for loosening track there is a bleeder bolt that
is loosened to release grease ,
Here is one of your pictures showing one of the 1/2" bolts and the cover that is removed
to get to the zerk fitting and bleeder valve
Another bit of info ,on the rear of your track adjuster is a large coil spring , they are probably one of the
more important undercarriage parts that hardly ever gets looked at The purpose of these springs
is to relieve tension if something (rock,stick) gets jammed in the track and is forced through by the
power of the drive train , They are quite often broken or jammed with mud and dirt so they cant move .
This leads to excessive wear in the undercarriage and possible damage or breakage of components ,
John and Kevin! I am simply amazed on your knowledge base and warm ways in talking w/others! I feel blessed to have run into you and this Redpowermagazine team! Your awesome!!!
I purchased two buttons, one for the start and one for the ether. Does anyone know if this system is worth fixing. I usually like to drive my bus toward getting everything working like it was supposed to. Is there an ether canister that you fill with something, or is it something that gets replaced? Also I noticed that the temp and oil pressure gauges weren't working, yet it ran smooth. What is the first thing to do w/ea. gauge that's not working? I would feel much better if the gauges were working. The water and oil was up to par, but I like to have working gauges or is there something better?
I cleaned up all the parts/removed the old seals and packing from the hydraulic bucket cylinder. I am now ready to file/sand using emery cloth the pits/imperfections on the cylinder rod. I'm so new at this that I appreciate any help I can get w/suggestions of what to put on the seals when reassembling. Plus any suggestions for filing/sanding and what lube to put on the seals/packing when reassembling. Thank you in advance.
I replaced the starter button with a nearly original 60A unit. Works great. As for tightening the track. I took off the cap that safely hides the grease zert and added marine all purpose grease. Enough to see if it worked. It did. See pics attached. I will return to the loader on the weekend to bring both tracks to specs. I haven't as yet found the springs that apparently "relieve tension if something (rock,stick) gets jammed in the track and is forced through by the power of the drive train". Are the springs internal within a cylinder or perhaps encapsulated where I can't see them?
Added a few pages from my books that illustrate how to adjust the track and show where the spring is that John and Kevin mentioned above.
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