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Hello dozers,

Had one come up for sale too close to me and look what happened

I have several questions but a couple will do for now.

This unit started life going six ways, now only four.  The angle cylinders have been removed and replaced with manually adjustable stops.  The spool that was originally used for them is frozen in the valve.

My plan is to 'T' into the supply ahead of the valve and add a single spool valve I have extra.  

I need angle cylinders.  Would anybody have access to originals to measure them well enough I can order or have made new ones?

Does anybody have originals to sell?

I am also doing a fluid change.  On the bottom is a plate, shaped like a T.  The cavity is where the hydraulic line exits from, I'm assuming this is the pressure side.  Is this where the filter or sump screen is located?  Is it a dry cavity?  Meaning if I take it off is it going to drown me?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_0288.JPG

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filter is center right housing behind roller

yes you will get a bath  15 gal in 3-4 cavities     any drain plug you find on the bottom  flush well thru pipe plug in rear

strain/magnet for any large pieces in rear  bearing but more likely chunks of sun clutch pads

by some moderately priced cross or prince tie rod cyl if I find a pair will measure ...about 3'  but both ends require tab not clevis2005_1113Image0196.thumb.JPG.9c24593e7f9a6e52eb089ebe2d22d2b0.JPG

2006_1108Image0150.JPG

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those shown in photo have close to original plumbing but also are not 100% after 50 years

from what I find they are + - 26" CC  and are the basic parts of the lift cyls  also ,all with 1"   tab/stub ends so clevis type will not fit with out....

cant tell what may have been swapped ......your serial #....?   early to mid 2nd yr....? #2350-2800?

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Post a picture of your valve. It probably has a power beyond port which is capped and would be the best place to tap off the new valve. 

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I don't think teeing into the supply port is going to work for you.  Flow will just go through the existing valve back to tank when you try to use your added valve.  Path of least resistance.  Like said, power beyond leaving your valve is best if equipped that way.  Another option would be a diverter valve in your tilt circuit where you could use the tilt valve for tilt or angle but not both at same time.  Best option is repair/replace the valve you have.  All this is assuming it is an open center system which I think it is.

Dennis

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yes it has power beyond ports

the husco valve can be repaired to the extent you match/find parts

 

td340 bg plumb 1.jpg

td340 bg plumb 2.jpg

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Hey dozers

Thanks for the heads up.  Your right, least resistance wins so a 'T' won't work.  

I'll check into the power beyond options on the valve bank.

Thanks for the location of the filter.  What does the plate on the bottom of the case access? 

I need to redo the control handles as they cause the valves to rotate as they move in and out.

Anybody have a spare 3 spool and control handles extra?

 

 

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IMG_0298.JPG

IMG_0296.JPG

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I have 2 cylinders extra that came with the machine.  I was told they were the ones replaced and they leak of course.

I thought they were too long to use in the angle function but 26"CC would be at least as long as these are if not a little longer.  

I figured I would torch the ends off these and weld to new aftermarket cylinders if finding them set up right is a problem.

IMG_0335.JPG

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Get the original ones rebuilt. They will be much better than any cheap replacement cylinder.

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Just now, nomorejohndeere said:

I have 2 cylinders extra that came with the machine.  I was told they were the ones replaced and they leak of course.

I thought they were too long to use in the angle function but 26"CC would be at least as long as these are if not a little longer.  

I figured I would torch the ends off these and weld to new aftermarket cylinders if finding them set up right is a problem.

IMG_0335.JPG

26" eye to eye

never had a 100% original belive they are same as lifters

30 years ago had mine converted to oring   if not scored or bent  new piston iron and plastic/nylon for the rest  x 5 kits

most shops are %*&^% $$$  more than new, so ordered parts/core from link HYd  and had local MS fit them

your going to have at least $600 into new + the R & R

http://www.princehyd.com/Products

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T340 1787    was off a little late first year  

plates are available about $45   would have to dig to find reputable dealer OEM use to have them

 

Thanks for the location of the filter.  What does the plate on the bottom of the case access? 

LPTO gear drive  also for HOP belly pump

I need to redo the control handles as they cause the valves to rotate as they move in and out.

long term start looking at a new one    cobbled to many times most parts NLA or $$$

Anybody have a spare 3 spool and control handles extra?

these had a life cycle of 15-25 years + - many parts were considered wear items but lasted  longer therefore no parts just new tech

 

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