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Gleaner k2

What would you do 986 engine!

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I got a 986 that cracked a sleeve scored a piston so was thinking of buying one new complete hole sleeve piston and use the old pistons and sleeves cause they look great and buy new rod bearings o rings piston rings and gaskets but to buy it all separate cost more than the complete in frame kit the dealer will sell me!  Number 4 cracked and put coolant in the oil! And like the idea of using the original parts with all this talk of bad rebuild kits! And i dont like spending more than i half to but i want it done right! Just thought using my 5 good sleeve and pistons cut me back on cost but its looking like it wont! I havent talk to my guy the does my heads for me maybe he can get me a better deal but hes usually high on buying parts off of! I dont to reuse or buy new after market kit and be done!

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i am cheap too,but buy the whole kit,do as much work as you can by yourself.Learn or hire out what you cant.If is awful expensive when you overhaul something and something is not right.it will never be right if it was not right in the first place.

PS use the high dollar antifreeze from CIH, it will pay dividends in the long run.

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The work i can do but its the fact of junking 5 perfectly good sleeve and pistons! I guess i could lube them up and throw them on a shelve for down the road! I use to just spend money and not worry bout now days i try to make it goes as far as i can and still do a good job! 

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36 minutes ago, Jacka said:

i am cheap too,but buy the whole kit,do as much work as you can by yourself.Learn or hire out what you cant.If is awful expensive when you overhaul something and something is not right.it will never be right if it was not right in the first place.

PS use the high dollar antifreeze from CIH, it will pay dividends in the long run.

X2

We use complete eseg antifreeze in ours. Expensive but worth every penny. We have not pitted a liner we have owned at all. 

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I'll bet there is some cavitation erosion on the other 5 sleeves. Bite the bullet and spring for the whole kit.

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1440 combine bring $1000 running in the south . Same engine.

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We used to replace just one cylinder all the time, but the engines were relatively new.

You just needed to know why it failed in the first place. Usually nozzles.

All you have to lose is some time, a head and pan gasket, which is getting spendy.

If I was plowing daily with it, a full kit would be best.

Most don't get worked like they used to.

Pull all cylinders as a unit. Sleeve with piston, ring and rod still in sleeve. You will install new o-rings if reused.

Look them over well for pitting. That may change your mind on reusing any sleeves.

If they look OK, new o-rings and put back together with the one new hole.

Do what you want to do.

 

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I am in the same boat. My 986 runs good but has more blow by than I like to see. It uses oil about like any 9 so I hear, 2qt/8hr of fairly hard pull. I would like to inframe it this winter but am wondering how far to go. Depending on what you do with the tractor I would just roll the dice and replace the one, but like you said if you have to buy the parts anyway then you may as well put them in. That way all your sleeve o rings are new and no cavitation on your original sleeves for sure. I would bet if you were to pull them you would see some erosion too, but who is to say!?? I have decided that on my in frame once I get it apart if I see anything in the cam I don't like shes coming apart for the long haul. With my luck ill be doing it all.

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Do the hole kit. If you only do one now another may cavitate in a year and you will be working on it again. I like to do the job right the first time. My 2 cents good luck.

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Thanks guys i pulled the other sleeves they look good on the outside but they been in thier for 40 years your probably right and just do it all! 

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Back in the '80's when there was no money, I fixed a 504 Cummins in a 145 Versatile with used sleeves and pistons. I turned the sleeves a quarter turn so the erosion had a new place to start on. That engine ran for many years!

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1 hour ago, R Pope said:

Back in the '80's when there was no money, I fixed a 504 Cummins in a 145 Versatile with used sleeves and pistons. I turned the sleeves a quarter turn so the erosion had a new place to start on. That engine ran for many years!

That is in the factory manual for the ih engines also can’t remember if it is 1/4 or 1/2 turn. But if you are doing it yourself rings and gaskets plus bearings will cost you more than a complete kit. You can find Clevite parts or other brands yet. How times have changed though dealer used to stock complete kits for ih engines years ago at 900 dollars now everything is ordered by pieces. The funny thing is any time I have seen holes in the sleeves they were already leaking. They can pit fast also some jd sleeves at through in under 500 hours.

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18 hours ago, Jacka said:

i am cheap too,but buy the whole kit,do as much work as you can by yourself.Learn or hire out what you cant.If is awful expensive when you overhaul something and something is not right.it will never be right if it was not right in the first place.

PS use the high dollar antifreeze from CIH, it will pay dividends in the long run.

What is special about case ih antifreeze i always use green in tractors but considered switching to a different color if its better than green!

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18 hours ago, peanut said:

1440 combine bring $1000 running in the south . Same engine.

X2  Also see if your local Navistar dealer can still get you a "works" kit for a DT-466

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7 hours ago, Gleaner k2 said:

What is special about case ih antifreeze i always use green in tractors but considered switching to a different color if its better than green!

I take my drum to my CIH dealer and get it filled with XHD or HXD, the purple stuff, for 2.59/gal. Also got 10% off that last spring during parts sale. That's the one you don't mix water with, think it's also avalable straight.

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8 hours ago, Gleaner k2 said:

What is special about case ih antifreeze i always use green in tractors but considered switching to a different color if its better than green!

I don't know,but in my wet sleeve engines that is what I use.I overhauled a 1066, it was leaking around o rings,sleeves were pitted,water in oil big time.The motor had a little over 5000 hours,had original rod bearings in it stamped July of '72.Tractor sat for years before I bought it,ran it two years before I had problems.I just asked dealer what do I do to protect o-rings from deterioration and he said CIH  recommended this antifreeze,like $27 gal i think.So that is what  I use now in my wet sleeve IH tractors .I had guys tell me they just put some sort of additive in regular anti freeze but I don't know.I really don't think coolant adds much to cost of overhaul so I think really it is cheap,do what i can to extend the O-rings. Because with a wet sleeve engine at any time you can have that failure of O-rings,it can happen right out of the blue.In my other tractors ,old trucks etc I run cheap green.

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56 minutes ago, 1480x3 said:

I take my drum to my CIH dealer and get it filled with XHD or HXD, the purple stuff, for 2.59/gal. Also got 10% off that last spring during parts sale. That's the one you don't mix water with, think it's also avalable straight.

Correction- I just looked at the bill, it was 2.60/gal    $143 for 55 gallon then got 10% off that

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Take the piston # from top and call FP Smith at (800) 558-7228 and check the price on sleeves and pistons.  I used to buy pistons from them.  There was also a place in Florida that had good prices.  

I don't have the # but you can get a package of sleeve o rings from McMaster Carr.

I would have the injectors tested and cleaned.

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lol! SRC reman. I would not hesitiate to fix the one hole, and re-ring the rest if everything looks great! It is different if you were doing it for a customer, and had to back it. You are working on your own tractor, so it will not fall on anyone else. 

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Id rather rebuild what i got than another engine! I ve decided just to do a complete rebuild dont want to spend the money but hopefully it will run awhile then with no problems

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Problem with new engine kits is most are junk and you here all these guys talk about how much oil the engine burns after rebuild and they are not happy.  I tell them put new o rings on sleeves new bearings in bottom and slap it back together if it was running good  before problem.  I’ve done probably 25 engines this way with no issues, so I’m a believer.  Got to remember most kits are made overseas and that also includes Case IH  so don’t think for a second that they are building these old engine kits.  Have had many guys put Case IH  kits in and we’re not happy with the oil consumption, but it’s your call

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