tricky826

720 plow

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Hi guys I have a 720 plow with spring trip and 16 in bottoms on it. Am plow some clay and the plow is tripping a lot and there's no rocks there are my springs getting weak. I just bought this plow and it's my first ih plow any comments would be much  appreciated 

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Make sure your shares are good...a worn out share will cause excessive trip.  That said, I've seen a lot of those plows with the trips "bolted".....

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Our case plow has spring tension adjustment. Maybe the 720 does as well? If it came from an area with lighter soils they may just be backed off too far? If you don't have any rocks maybe bolting them would be a good remedy although personally I wouldn't because you never know what lies beneath. Year after year the frost keeps driving obstructions to the surface so things that weren't there one year could all of the sudden pop up the next.

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58 minutes ago, 660 driver said:

Our case plow has spring tension adjustment. Maybe the 720 does as well? If it came from an area with lighter soils they may just be backed off too far? If you don't have any rocks maybe bolting them would be a good remedy although personally I wouldn't because you never know what lies beneath. Year after year the frost keeps driving obstructions to the surface so things that weren't there one year could all of the sudden pop up the next.

Yes there's a little tab that sits underneath  the stop when the Springs come down the higher side underneath the spring patch is for Rocky ground the Lower Side is for non Rocky ground I believe it takes a half inch wrench to loosen the bolt and have to lift it open so to speak to turn it around

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2 hours ago, bitty said:

Yes there's a little tab that sits underneath  the stop when the Springs come down the higher side underneath the spring patch is for Rocky ground the Lower Side is for non Rocky ground I believe it takes a half inch wrench to loosen the bolt and have to lift it open so to speak to turn it around

I would be willing to bet that fixes your issue. Not likely the springs are wore so bad they won't hold at the desired adjustment unless they have been tripped a lot. Even less likely they would all do it due to wear since not every bottom gets tripped when one encounters an obstruction.

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Thanks bitty and 660 I was looking at the tab you are talking about mine are with the thin side towards the back of the plow not sure if this is were they should be. I was trying to see how they come out to be changed but not sure how to do this can you help tell me how 

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Type "international 720 plow manual" into the search bar on ebay and theres an original manual for 23$ and some change. This may be the best way for you to figure it out as sometimes things are hard to explain over text. Just a thought if you would like one theres some available. Otherwise maybe bitty can lay it out decently for ya. I've never messed with adjustment on those so I'm no help.

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10 minutes ago, tricky826 said:

Thanks bitty and 660 I was looking at the tab you are talking about mine are with the thin side towards the back of the plow not sure if this is were they should be. I was trying to see how they come out to be changed but not sure how to do this can you help tell me how 

You want the thin part underneath the spring latch part the thick part you want exposed that you're looking at the thick part 4 Non Rocky ground don't ask me how I know in our Rocky ground it gets real expensive if it's set up for non Rocky ground

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1 hour ago, bitty said:

You want the thin part underneath the spring latch part the thick part you want exposed that you're looking at the thick part 4 Non Rocky ground don't ask me how I know in our Rocky ground it gets real expensive if it's set up for non Rocky ground

Bitty thiers no rocky ground up thier! Haha we have two fields you moldboard them at night sparks roll off the plow! 

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Is he asking about spring trip bottoms or auto reset ?

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Here it is in the CIH parts search.  That always helps me with correct terms and things if I don't have a manual or parts book handy.  It can be tough to navigate but its free.

https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html?csid=fb3a725ab2ccb653993872709fa8b6ff&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr59063ag66219

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On our 720 there is a shim you can add/remove to change pressure on the toggle trip to change trip sensitivity. If you look at the parts didiagram  its #7 on one &#15 in the other depending on whether you have an early or late 720.

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3 hours ago, Gleaner k2 said:

Bitty thiers no rocky ground up thier! Haha we have two fields you moldboard them at night sparks roll off the plow! 

Gotta love good old PA. I hear people complain about picking rocks. If I picked all the rocks here I’d need a mining permit 

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2 hours ago, Bdse25 said:

Gotta love good old PA. I hear people complain about picking rocks. If I picked all the rocks here I’d need a mining permit 

We have been notill for 15 years and I am not going to tillage for any reason. We have chiseled two fields after two extremely wet harvests to try to smooth out the field. We will use the 900 flex frame plow next spring to put in a few diversions most likely. 

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Thanks bitty was talking to a guy yesterday and he was saying to take it right out and run with out it am thinking that's not a good idea but like I said this is my first 720 auto reset. It is set up the way you are tell me with the thin side under 

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They ( case IH or ARTS-WAY)  offer a heavier spring and thinner shim than the original, what I have done to several plows is install the heavier springs on the front bottom. because it seems if the front bottom trips they will all trip in tough going . It does not eliminate the tripping but it sure helps also check your spring bolts they should be bottomed out. Unless you like buying trip parts I would not take out the shim completely.

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17 hours ago, bitty said:

We have been notill for 15 years and I am not going to tillage for any reason. We have chiseled two fields after two extremely wet harvests to try to smooth out the field. We will use the 900 flex frame plow next spring to put in a few diversions most likely. 

My neighbor has been no till only for a similar amount of time and he also swears he will never go back. I don’t have no till equipment but in my head I thought the no till would roll over the rocks leaving the seeds on top. He has really good luck though and shares your enthusiasm. Now I’m convincing myself to look for a no till planter

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22 minutes ago, Bdse25 said:

My neighbor has been no till only for a similar amount of time and he also swears he will never go back. I don’t have no till equipment but in my head I thought the no till would roll over the rocks leaving the seeds on top. He has really good luck though and shares your enthusiasm. Now I’m convincing myself to look for a no till planter

My rockiest stone infested fld has not seen any type of tillage tool since 1981. It was moldboard plowed, then harrowed with IH 401 drag, then the 186 pulled a haybuster picker over it. This was repeated 3 times maybe 4 in some areas except for the plowing of course. Now it is no-till row cropped. Still looks completely stone free today except for a couple of woodchuck mounds. I have a pasture field directly over fence that I reseed every 10 yrs or so because I'm to lazy to give it the same treatment. I'm sure I have some cows with chipped teeth, better than broken iron. When the cows go for good it will get the same treatment.

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2 hours ago, 1480x3 said:

My rockiest stone infested fld has not seen any type of tillage tool since 1981. It was moldboard plowed, then harrowed with IH 401 drag, then the 186 pulled a haybuster picker over it. This was repeated 3 times maybe 4 in some areas except for the plowing of course. Now it is no-till row cropped. Still looks completely stone free today except for a couple of woodchuck mounds. I have a pasture field directly over fence that I reseed every 10 yrs or so because I'm to lazy to give it the same treatment. I'm sure I have some cows with chipped teeth, better than broken iron. When the cows go for good it will get the same treatment.

How about just no till over the rock. Does that seem to work. I’ve got lots of rocks but think with time I could just build topsoil on top of them. Wishful thinking?

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I have other fields that are stoney   but not nearly as bad as these 2, so yes I notill over rocks. just more pleasant cutting beans or hay with surface clean

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I tried out my 4 furrow 720 plow tonight for the first time.  For the most part, it worked pretty good with partly worn out shares & shins.  I am going to change them soon, but wanted to try it out with the old ones on it.  My problem was getting the front furrow into the ground deep enough & making the front furrow cut a wide enough path.  Ended up moving the arm that 3pth arms are attached to over to the right, towards the furrow.  That allowed it to cut a wider path in the ground.  Still may move it more yet, it started out with about 6" of ground being cut.  That didn't work out right!  I am guessing it was on a tractor with a wider wheel stance than mine.  

Figured out that when I was letting the tail wheel down all the way - it was too much and it was shoving the front of the plow out of the ground.  I have a land wheel set up to the desired depth, but I still shouldn't be dropping the tail wheel all the way.  So going to get some of those stoppers for the cylinder this weekend.  Once I kept it up some it ran nice and level and rolled things over nicely.

All and all, it did a decent job for the first time out I think.  Need to do a little more tweeking on it, but getting there.  Don't regret buying it, that's for sure.  Looks good behind the 3688 too I think.

Anyone have any tips/tricks when using these plows?  Something that isn't explained in the manual that is handy to know?

I got my manual from IH dealer, they just printed it off for me.  Charged me so much a page and I didn't have to wait for it to come from seller on E-Bay or something like that.  I just put them in plastic sleeves and throw in binder and keep it in tractor.  Did that for all my equipment so far.  It comes in handy at times.

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"MH", not to contradict you but I have never ran a plow with a stop on the rear eheel, have always let it "float". Without going out & lookingbour 720, I believe there is a "stop" o(5/8"bolt IIRC) that can be adjusted for the tsil wheel arm to ride on, least there was on the 5xx & 710 plows I have owned over the years. On adjustments, I was taught that the front bottom should cut 2" more than the bottom size ( 18"  for 26" bottoms& 20" for 18" bottomd.  This is checked by meaduring forward from the point of the share to under the tractor rear end & from that point to the inside wall of the tractor's furrow tire. This measurement can be adjusted by either movint the front cross hitch of the plow or moving the tractor's furrow tire in or out as needed. The way you drive in the furrow will also affect this fist a nce. Try to stay in the middle of the furrow  as much as possible.

Also make sure the plow is level side to side & front to rear. Best to have someone drive beside the plow while you are actually plowing. Side to side levrling csn be done by either adjusting the hitch pins in offsetting holes or by adjusting the length of your left or right 3 pt lift arm as needed. Front to rear leveling is achieved by rsising / 3 pt hitch as needed.

 

Also make sure the plow drafts straight behind the travtor &  doesn't  pull the tractor's  front end one firevtion or the other. Draft can be changed by moving the whole front hitch either direction as described in the OM. Lastly, make sure the tsil wheel is adjusted properly so as not to push the plow sidewsys one direction or the other.

Not sure of your soil type but we always ran "deep suck" shares to help pull the plow into the ground. Hard ground or worn shares will cause the plow to "skid" &  not go into the ground. I recall one year ground was so hard that we put new shares on every morning.. Next morning tips would be blue &  wore off. 

Hope this helps.

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What spacing did you adjust your tractor tires to?  That affects your front cut tremendously

48 minutes ago, Mountain Heritage said:

I tried out my 4 furrow 720 plow tonight for the first time.  For the most part, it worked pretty good with partly worn out shares & shins.  I am going to change them soon, but wanted to try it out with the old ones on it.  My problem was getting the front furrow into the ground deep enough & making the front furrow cut a wide enough path.  Ended up moving the arm that 3pth arms are attached to over to the right, towards the furrow.  That allowed it to cut a wider path in the ground.  Still may move it more yet, it started out with about 6" of ground being cut.  That didn't work out right!  I am guessing it was on a tractor with a wider wheel stance than mine.  

Figured out that when I was letting the tail wheel down all the way - it was too much and it was shoving the front of the plow out of the ground.  I have a land wheel set up to the desired depth, but I still shouldn't be dropping the tail wheel all the way.  So going to get some of those stoppers for the cylinder this weekend.  Once I kept it up some it ran nice and level and rolled things over nicely.

All and all, it did a decent job for the first time out I think.  Need to do a little more tweeking on it, but getting there.  Don't regret buying it, that's for sure.  Looks good behind the 3688 too I think.

Anyone have any tips/tricks when using these plows?  Something that isn't explained in the manual that is handy to know?

I got my manual from IH dealer, they just printed it off for me.  Charged me so much a page and I didn't have to wait for it to come from seller on E-Bay or something like that.  I just put them in plastic sleeves and throw in binder and keep it in tractor.  Did that for all my equipment so far.  It comes in handy at times.

 

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I have it set up for 30” corn rows. It’s fairly narrow I guess compared to other tractors?  But I soray with this tractor and apply nitrogen too, moving tires in and out would be a pain. It’s hard enough keeping wedge bolts tight on it as it is. Still thinking of throwing a spot of weld on the axles so the hub can’t slide out the axle on me!

Mentioned what the plow was doing to my father, said very likely it is the shares needing to be changed.  He had that happen to him one year with his plow, not a 720, but a heavy Salford semi mount. Changed the shares on it and worked great, like cutting into butter. I guess you can’t always get the full life out of the shares sometimes like I figured you could. Thought you could wear them down until they got close to the front of the frog, then strip it and start again with new ones?  Guess that’s not always the case!

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If you weld on your axle don’t be surprised when it snaps and you have to replace it. 

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