DonMc

Pulling ripper with 1086

Recommended Posts

I have a 3 shank ripper hooked to the 1086.   Ripper only goes in ground  5 0r 6 inches.  Tried lengthing lower arms and top link. Tried shortening top link. No change.  Any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Thesd5488 said:

Look for a five shank tractor is bored with the 3

Wish we had a like button....😆

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don

      A couple of thoughts come to mind.    Is the draft lever or setting pulling the ripper up when the load comes on the tractor?    Are the ripper points worn so bad that they do not have any  "Suck" ?    Are they the correct points?   Will the 3 point hitch allow the ripper to go any lower?   If all else fails the tractor may just be bored.

GT&T

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What make / model # of the ripper. Post some pics & maybe someone can help you out on making the necessary adjustments. Doubt if you want a bigger ripper on a 1086. W have a 5 / 7 shank in-line that will bring our 315 to t's knees when folded to a 5 shank.  Will stop our STX 435 in it's tracks  when unfolded an ran as a 7 shank in certain situations.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

    I would say  1st= three point arms length & draft & lift adjustments ,Top link so points are even to slight down point.

    2nd=   Correct points on shanks.

     If all else fails, place some weights on ripper to encourage depth, Ground may be harder then you think.  Three shank ripper may not be heavy enough to seek penetration.  Lot of vineyard guys around here use three shank v-style three point and I have seen many of them with couple of rear tractor weights on them.

     My V - 5 shank three point on my 1456 just sinks in ground , more then I want on several types of soil, I really have to watch the draft.

            Just my two cents.

           BTW Boog is right, send picture and some here should figure it out for you.

      Tony

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will try to get  pictures. Should have done that first.   I think the teeth are the biggest problem.  Then the hitch arms.  The ripper is a V model and has place to bolt on more sections to make it 5 Shank.  The tips are worn  square to the shank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We have a single subsoiler.    If the point isn't sharp it won't go in the ground.     I just built it up with weld

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

had the same trouble with a 5488 years back the adjusting bolt for the draft control had fallen out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Teeth have been welded on.  Don't know if  they are the right teeth or if the angle is right either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like time for new ones to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What would be the right teeth for this ripper?   Are they welded on at the proper angle?

Thanks for all your help guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They appear correct but yes they aint points now.  They are spoons.  Change em and you'll be surprused how big dif makes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah it looks like time for new points, however you still may want to clean bottom of shank and after installing new points, tap a nut between shank and point, (top side) and tack weld nut,(to keep from losing) to give point more suck, can also use smaller bolt, instead of roll pin, to give more suck. also weld old auto-truck leaf spring on top of shank to stop shank wear. can also weld leaf to point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I may be all wrong, but it almost looks like if your top link was a little shorter it would help the angle to get the teeth to want to dig in if that makes sense?  It appears it's adjusted all the way in, but do you have a shorter one?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Link is as short as it will go. This helped.  Draft is in Heavy mode. This helped.   New teeth are next.  I like the idea of getting more angle on the teeth.  Where do you get these teeth?  Never had a ripper before  There is a second hole where the lower hitch arms are attached. You can see this in one of the pictures.  If I hook arms in the top hole that would give a little more angle.  Once I get teeth on I will work on the angle.  With proper teeth what depth should I expect to get out of this ripper?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Just a thought here, does the three point hitch go down on its own when it’s disconnected from your subsoiler? 

 It is quite possible that if your three-point hitch doesn’t go down all the way the arm inside the rear housing could’ve slipped by the draft control arm and not allowing it to work properly.

 You will have to take off your top link cover on the rear and to put the draft control arm back on it’s proper side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would agree with all comments above------particularly with worn points and "angle of attack".

Never have seen sub-chisel points with the wings as illustrated.  I would think the wings would restrict penetration in hard ground (acting as a ski on water).

Re:  where to get replacement points?

Check with your farm equipment dealers------any number of allied manufactures made sub-chisels through the years.  Some national and some local manufacturers.  That looks to be a common  1" thick shank?----------may have to do some adapting.

Interesting sidenote:  Dr. Gordon Topper did alot of research at the Stoneville, Mississippi USDA research farm and determined that a 23°angle of attack on the point was the best setting for "sub-chisel" (as you have) and the deeper sub soiler work.  (less power and full penetration using a parabolic designed shank)

DD 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎10‎/‎7‎/‎2017 at 6:35 PM, DonMc said:

I have a 3 shank ripper hooked to the 1086.   Ripper only goes in ground  5 0r 6 inches.  Tried lengthing lower arms and top link. Tried shortening top link. No change.  Any ideas?

If I were you I would quickly park this ripper in the fence row before you end up with a very expensive rear end repair. I do not think you will gain much of anything. but a lot of farmers like some exercise even if it does not pay out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think by looking at the angle of the top link as it is lower the angle will pitch the ripper so that the rear is so low the shanks are touching the rear of the shank 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/12/2017 at 12:09 AM, 74A-472 said:

If I were you I would quickly park this ripper in the fence row before you end up with a very expensive rear end repair. I do not think you will gain much of anything. but a lot of farmers like some exercise even if it does not pay out.

He isn't going to take the rear end out of that tractor pulling 3 shanks. He doesn't even have duals on and his tires are wore.... I have the weigh tickets to prove deep ripping pays in my ground.  I did a 5 acre plot where the only difference from the rest of the field was it wasn't ripped... 13bpa less than the other 25 acres in that field.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I pull a 5 with my 1086, usually remove 2 and go with 3 just to make it a little bit easier on tractor since I don't farm for a living. I do not have the wings on mine yet, just have the regular tips. I have a heavy white clay (called crawfish dirt in local slang) that was bottom plowed for 50 years, then laid fallow for last 30 years. Water would stand for weeks during winter until I ripped it. Plow pan is horrible on my place, but noticed a big difference after giving it one pass. After I get through making one pass on the whole place I'll get the winged tips and go at it perpendicular to the first pass. Don't know if it would work everywhere or for everyone's needs but it definitely helped the ground to absorb the water instead of running off or just pooling up in low spots.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now