gwoswald

Replacing a broken rear wheel clamp bolt

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gwoswald    0

I have an early 766 with standard clamp on wheels, not wedge locks. I was putting fuel in it today when I noticed that two clamp bolts were broken and the axle is looking loose. 

First time dealing with this type of repair on the tractor, does anyone have any tips for replacing the broken bolts? I am assuming the repair will involve pulling the wheel off and then getting the clamp out of the casting to extract the broken bolt. 

Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated!

 

 

IMAG0730.jpg

IMAG0731.jpg

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hagan    0

good wrenches lots of patience and be limber to where you can get in there. At least no 700 pound weight to work around. Please replace both bolts and tighten and if you have a place where you can roll the wheel to use the power and weight of it to finish tightening it that works good i used a older slide in ih tool box wrench and a pipe that would stop at the cab mount bracket and that would work good.

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R190    0

You may be surprised but usually those studs are fairly loose in the clamp you may be able to get it out with a left hand drill bit or a regular bit and an easy out  .Many time a customer has brought me a clamp thinking they will be buying a different one and I could screw the piece out with just the pressure from my fingers on the ends or just drilling and using a 5/16 easy out. Of course there is always the chance it will be a real stinker.  judging from the picture I would try a small long nose visegrips  go in from the side and try to turn the broken stud out darn good chance it will work. If that doesn't work I would go to the drill and an easy out . If that doesn't work  take the other stud out cut off the broken stud with a torch remove the clamp and work on it in a vise. It usually a pretty easy fix. I have removed many many of them over the years for customers.

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560Dennis    0

Drill. It tap. For Left. Hand bolt l. Doesn't look like there is enough bolt exposed to weld a nut to it .

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nate    0

try a vise grip on broken bolt see if it will turn out.  If not take out other unbroken bolt, cut broken bolt with torch to get clamp out, weld nut on broken bolt and turn it out.   Should be the easiest way to go about it if you have a torch and welder.  

Nate

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gwoswald    0

Thanks for the input everyone. Seems like this shouldn't be too bad. Finally have a reason to get out the 3/4" drive sockets.

Any thoughts as to why these are set up with the stud and nut design rather than a straight bolt only? Just curious.

Thanks again!

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1 hour ago, gwoswald said:

Any thoughts as to why these are set up with the stud and nut design rather than a straight bolt only? Just curious.

Thanks again!

Almost impossible to seize up this way, either the nut turns or the stud turns.

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stronger800    0

 Obviously the one just broke (clean break), but it's also obvious that that wheel has been loose for a long time judging by the excessive wear.  I'm thinking it will likely unscrew easily as it's been getting rocked/knocked around.  That, or the wiggling has buggered the threads, and it ain't coming out.  

Imo, You're lucky it didn't walk right off the axle. 

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mmi    0
42 minutes ago, brahamfireman said:

Almost impossible to seize up this way, either the nut turns or the stud turns.

if the nut turns still going to ruin/cut the stud to get the wedge out

parts site is down to confirm if factory..but would suspect stud from trying to keep it tight 3-4x on worn axle/clamp

if the whole ones cooperate  the broken ones should not be too difficult....soak mild heat..vise grip  and or tip left and weld nut

removing and lying down (tire) could be finger/labor saver

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gwoswald    0

Well got then all out without taking the tire off. Vise grips and easy out on the inside bolt. Looks like I'll need 4 new ones. Both intact bolts are bent. So now just waiting on new ones. Thanks again!

IMAG0738.jpg

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R190    0

Now you have learned on of our trade secrets. 

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gwoswald    0

I don't think the wheel is as bad as it may look in the photo. The keyway will be well engaged when the bolts are tight. I'll post up a photo in a few days when it's all back together.

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ny bill o    0

i just use fine thread grade 8 bolts on the clamps. studs and nuts are $34 each.

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560Dennis    0

Question about first picture , in order to get axles cap out you must remove nuts and stubs from cap? So if one stub is broke look lik you got to cut the broken stud ? 

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gwoswald    0
26 minutes ago, 560Dennis said:

Question about first picture , in order to get axles cap out you must remove nuts and stubs from cap? So if one stub is broke look lik you got to cut the broken stud ? 

What I did was first remove the intact nut and stud. Which I had to use a vise grips and booger some threads to do. Then I could tilt the clamp around enough that an 1/8" of the broken one stuck out, and I was able to turn it out with the vise grips. I had to heat the studs a little bit with a propane torch, and then hosed them down with pb blaster. Once both were out the front clamp was free.

On the inside clamp I was able to just turn out the intact stud from the nut. The broken one, however, was recessed. So I drilled a hole in it and used the biggest easy out that I had (3/8") which luckily was good enough to spin it out to the point that I got the vise grips on it. 

After that all four studs where out and the caps come right out. I backed the tractor up so the pressure was on the casting. Not the clamps.

My back up plan per the advice above was to sawzall or torch off the broken ones, but didn't end up needing too.

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gwoswald    0
On 9/11/2017 at 9:02 PM, stronger800 said:

How does it look with the new studs tightened up? 

Looks good. Got it cranked down today. 4 new studs a 3/4" drive socket wrench and a 3' pipe. Looks good to go. Axle tightened right up on wheel with no obvious wear.

IMAG0739.jpg

IMAG0741.jpg

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hagan    0

looks really good as compared to dads 806 when he used to run snap on dual wheels on it in plowed ground. Now FWIW i would take the tractor back to the shop in about 3 hours running and try and tighten the bolts again. You will be amazed at how much things loosen up some times and then then next time maybe none.

Good Looking Job though

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Steve C.    0
9 hours ago, hagan said:

Now FWIW i would take the tractor back to the shop in about 3 hours running and try and tighten the bolts again. You will be amazed at how much things loosen up some times and then then next time maybe none.

 

Absolutely.  The tractors actually came with a wrench to fit the nuts in the little tool box, and a 4' cheater pipe strapped to the side frame (not sure if it was exactly 4 feet, but definitely way over 3).

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